Hooking my amp from my subs to run the rest of my speakers in my car
I have a legacy 400x2 amp that runs my subs I would like to be able to run the rest of my car speakers off the amp as well....It has high pass and low pass capablities......but clueless on how to do it
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That will not work. The reason is frequency response. There are high and low pass filters installed on speaker systems. The reason is that no one speaker can handle all sound ranges. The other thing is that high range speakers are not high wattage speakers because they don't have to be. If you hook the high range to the straight feed from the amp, you will blow them out really fast.
What you're looking for is called a "crossover". A crossover is an electronic filter for an audio or speaker circuit. In an audio circuit, a crossover is used to prevent or pass certain frequencies or a range of frequencies from passing through it. Since your sub will reproduce the bass or low frequencies, you don't want other speakers to reproduce them. A band pass filter on your door speakers will do this for you. A band pass filter passes only a range or "band" of frequencies and blocks those that are above and below the range or band of frequencies selected. Installing a band pass filter will prevent the very high & very low frequencies from getting to the door /dash speakers. Likewise, you should consider connecting a low pass filter to your subs, too. The low pass filters work a little differently from of the way band pass filters work - they only allow low frequencies to get to the sub - blocking all the other higher frequencies (your other speakers are better suited to reproduce those). Lastly, you would install a high pass filters on tweeters. Tweeters are designed to reproduce only the high frequencies - sending mid and low frequencies to them is wasting power and can cause damage to them.
You purchase the filters for specific crossover points (the block / unblocked point) as determined by the individual speakers. If a sub has a frequency response of 20Hz - 100Hz, a low pass filter of 100Hz would be ideal. Remaining filters would need to begin at 100Hz - assuming the mid-range speakers have a frequency response beginning at 100Hz. A band pass filter of 100Hz - 3KHz would fit the bill nicely if the mid-range speakers go up to 3Khz Match the high end of the band pass to the high end of the frequency response of the mid-range speakers. Next, a high pass filter at 3KHz would allow only the high frequencies to your tweeters. Basically, you want to have the entire audible range 20Hz - 20KHz covered by the speakers and have the crossover points that match the frequency response ranges of the speakers.
Depending on the PA FUBAR you have. The voice coil on those subs are DVC. Dual Voice Coil. You need to know a couple things. What kind of amp are you going to run on it. And what is the resistance (OHM) rating of each voice coil. MY two 12's are dual 4 ohm. Meaning that there are essentially 4 speakers to hook up. My amp currently is not 2 ohm stable in bridged. So what I did is run each speaker in parallel (red2red,black2black) then run to the box terminal. So now the dual 4 ohm voice coils are basically 2 ohm. I have 2 speakers. Now I hook the box up in series. To bring the now two 2 ohm speakers into one 4 ohm speaker. This is called series/parallel setup. My amp sees this box as 1 channel @ 4ohms. The downfall to this is the output of the amp is divided up into each speaker. So instead of sending all 1400 watts to one sub. I will send 700 to each sub. But here is a catch. even though each speaker is half the total wattage it will still be 3db louder. Meaning it will be as loud as 1 sub running 1400 watts. To conclude i need to know how many of those subs you are going to run on the amp.. And the model number of the amp so I can match up your wiring.
Possible but highly unlikely. You cant check them to be sure if not, check to see if the amp for your subs has a phase switch on it. Also check to see if is has a bypass EQ and change it to a lower setting (low pass filter). Good Luck.
The sub out connection is for powered subs. To use a sub that runs off of the amp power, you'll will have to run it through the main speakers. Usually, on this type of sub, there are connectors that allow the frequencies above the sub range to bypass it and go on to the main speakers (the sub filters the lows and passes the highs on to the speakers). If your sub does not have this, then you'll have to get a separate amp for your sub to run off of the sub-out.
have you got a wiring kit for the amp? the amp needs atleast an 8 guage tho id suggest a 4 guage running from the batter to the amp with a 50 to 80 amp fuse atleast, then it needs to be ground to the chassis. a remote wire then needs to be run from the back of the headunit so that the amp only turns on when the ignition is on, then hook the wires from the amp to the sub.
On the amp there should be High pass and a low pass setting. Put it on low pass cause if its on high pass or in between it produces normal noted like a speaker. Low pass will filter out all the high frequencies.
forget hooking this on a subwoofer. this amp produces only 50 watts per channel at 4ohms or 70 watts per channel at 2 ohms RMS...
If you try bridging the sub, it will only give out maybe 100watts bridged.
if your sub is, lets say 1000watts RMS, youre just going to bust your amplifier to smoke...
Find a more decent and powerful amp. This amp is only intended for separates and lowend subs with an RMS of 80 to 150 watts