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I believe moog or someone makes a shim that goes between the axle housing and the wheel bearing to adjust the alignment. However,if the rear camber is out(the wheels tip in at the top) The coil spring will also cause this,if the back end is lower than the front ,bet on the springs. Easy way to tell,,just jack the vehicle up by the rear bumper in the center of the back. only a few inches ,if the wheels "stand " back up the coil springs are at fault. The Firestone guys are correct I think but that is only a "band-aid" on the real problem.
they are the shims that go between the bearings ,you have to mount it all up then determine how much shimming you need to make wheel feel firm when mounted with no movement on the top of the wheel when pushed and pulled ,not easy but to a jaguar lover like myself then its labour of love
You can buy a piece of rubber at the hardware store. They sell a pad for making rubber plumbing gaskets . You could experiment with carefully placed shims to see if it helps. I do not think it will hurt anything to try, and it might be nice to get the clunk out.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheel
Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads and the 4 anti-squeal shims
To Install:
CAUTION Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or replacement of the brake caliper.
Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
Install or connect the following:
Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
2 brake pads
Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
Clip
Front wheel
Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
jack up and support the front end on stands remove the wheel then remove the outer hub screws and then pull the hub out next you should see a large nut with square notches around the out side of the nut you will need the proper "spanner wrench"to remove this,once you remove the spanner nut there will be a large washer behind that with a small tab holes,that shim will pull out ,next remove the inner spanner nut(the same as the first one).This inner nut will have a small tab on it and fits into the shim you just removed make sure when you reinstall this nut and shim ring the tab and a hole line back up.Sorry I forgot to mention you need to remove the brake caliper also,just remove the two pressure rods(one on top and one on the bottom)by taking a hammer and a punch and gently tapping them outwards once they are out the caliper is able to be removed and swung up out of the way.Once the hub and inner nuts and shim are remove you will see the outer bearings and they come right out,for the rear bearings in the back of the hub you can pull out the old seal and remove the rear bearings.hope this helps its not as bad as it may seems once you've done one set they become easier for the next time
You can get replacement wheels from most decent hardware stores, either with ball race bearings, or just plain old plastic bushes. they don't cost much, I would take in my old wheel to get one that fits.
But before you go buying spares for the mower... you should read this
I just read the reviews because I am considering buying it, and many owners complained of the same problem. Many people said they tried to fix the problems by leveling the machine, however, one guy said he figured it out: just level the machine slightly toward the REAR and it drains correctly. Try it. I hope he's right, because I'm going to take a chance on this machine and it better work well!!! :)
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