Thank You for reading this;This fridge is obviously old. February 8th, I pulled it away from the wall and cleaned under and behind.(Never a problem up to then). February 13th a.m., found to be warm inside.Checked under for good Terminal (Block) connections etc., appear okay.Pull Thermostat down, and have current, Jump the 2 wire connectors that go to the Thermostat, Fridge begins to run!(I hear the compressor). Is it possible that just the Thermostat needs replacing? Ohm Meteris "Dead" across Thermostat Terminals. Thank You for any advice -Ed, Indianapolis
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: Kenmore Coldspot 106.7685110
There should be a shot circuit or near zero ohms across the two terminals when it is warm and open circuit when at freezer temps. Either the small capilary tube has leaked all of the nitrogen out or the contacts have rusted or corroded. I would say you have found the culprit....
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
there is a flap in the refrigerator side usually near or behind the light bulb the freezer side is thermostatically controlled with the compressor being controlled. On the refrigerator side the cold air comes from the freezer side. when this flap is open the refrigerator will cool continuously, Check the flap or the duct assembly here is an illustration of the part http://www.repairclinic.com/Kenmore-Refrigerator-Model-10674219400-ID-927868-Duct-Venting-Parts
If the fridge is running and you can hear it cycling(click, ~5 sec, click), then pull the fridge away from wall, take cardboard access panel off, 1/4" hex head, attatched to the compressor(black dome shaped bout the size of a volleyball) is a relay, take it off, if it sounds like a baby rattler when you shake it, it's bad. Check this first. If yours doesn't have this, then it has a timer. Timer might be bad. Not telling the heater when to turn off. Which is causing the fridge to not continue cooling, obviously.
It is probably your defrost cycle causing this. Obviously if you shut the water line off then it is not coming from there so there is only 1 other place it could be. Every 8, 10, or 12 hours depending on you defrost timer the refrigerator will defrost itself.......the frost melts into water and drains into a pan under the fridge. If the drain is plugged then it will just run into the refrigerator. If you have a freezer on top model then just remove the back wall inside the freezer, it will be a few 1/4 inch screws....If you have an icemaker then remove that too, it will be held on with 3 screws. Just look behind that wall and you will probably see ice at the bottom.....defrost the ice and pour a cup or 2 of water into the drain to make sure it is unclogged. If it is still plugged up then you have to find the clog....either in the back of the fridge behind the lower cover or in the refrig compartment near the back of the roof.
Hi. thanks for the question . the problem you have is with the drain tube, from under the freezer wall ,in the fridge. that tube is clogged up . pull fridge away from wall. locate the drain hose at the drain tray. clean. also clean all coils behind fridge thanks the appliance doc
there is a tab in the bottom of the light socket that can get bent so that it wont touch the base of the new bulb. unplug your refrig and use a small screw driver and bend the tab back out a little bit so that it will contact the new bulb...