Question about Konica Minolta Maxxum 4 / Dynax 4 QD 35mm SLR Camera

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Film Advance Perhaps this isn't a technical problem, but a problem with just not knowing how to manually advance the film. The film was removed in order to fix the camera, and in an effort to conserve film, I need to know how to manually advance the film without ruining the whole roll... I just can't figure it out, so any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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You rewound the roll to fix the camera and now you want to advance over the exposed film to get to the unexposed part? Not a problem, just put the camera to full manual and load up the film, now cover the lens with the lens cover and go into a dark closet and start shooting and advancing until you get to the unexposed portion of the film, there you go. You know you can get 24 exposures of 35mm film for 99 cents and the 99cent store?

Posted on Feb 19, 2008

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Having problems with my N90s


when you place the film in the camera & close the door does the film advance ?

Jun 06, 2013 | Nikon N90S 35mm SLR Camera

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Stuck Film Advance in Manual or Auto Wind 35mm Cameras


I've been seeing a great number of posts from people requesting help with a stuck film advance feature on their 35mm film cameras (you remember "film", right?) Normally, there are just a couple of things you can try to fix this issue before you'll need to find a professional to repair your camera - if it's even worth it. On that note, a lot of people still have film cameras for nostalgia purposes but there are still some hold outs that enjoy film. Finding a repair shop for an older camera isn't impossible but they are getting scarcer. Google "FILM CAMERA REPAIR" and see what pops up in your area!

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS:

There's a complex number of actions that must work properly in order for you to advance the film in your camera using the manual advance lever. Gears, shafts, bearings and springs come into play and like a clock, they need to mesh together or the advance mechanism comes to a screeching halt. Well, you'll be the only one screeching, most likely but you get the point. If any of those parts break or become unaligned, or if some foreign matter like dust or dirt gets into them, the same thing happens. However, there are sometimes a few things you can try that might prevent you from sending in your camera for professional repair. I caution you about opening your camera yourself unless it has no real value to you because the interior of a 35mm SLR camera is pretty complex, even more so that a clock. Chances are you'll do more bad than good. With that said, try these options:

Film Jammed - Won't Advance
Sometimes the film will jam in the canister, or in rare instances, isn't actually as long as it's supposed to be and can reach the end of the roll before the camera indicates it has. If you suspect this has occurred then push the film release button and try to wind the film back into the canister before opening the camera. If you don't care if the film gets exposed feel free to do this in the light. It's much easier!
At times the film may also pull lose from the canister and roll completely on the take-up reel. If this happens you'll need to take the camera into a completely dark room with the light-proof film container, remove the film manually from your camera, roll the film up and put it into the light-proof container, close it tight and then seal it with electrical or duct tape. Also let the lab know this has happened so they don't pop up the container and expose your film thinking it is still in the canister.

Advance Lever Stuck
If the actual film advance lever is stuck and won't move, about the only option you have is to open the back of the camera and be sure nothing has jammed in the gears or sprockets of the take up reel or film path. If that doesn't fix the problem try pressing the film release button, wind the rewind lever a bit and see if the advance lever engages again.

If the lever just flips back and forth with no tension at all then something inside has broken and your chances of repairing it yourself are almost none. Most film cameras are getting on in years and will just naturally begin to break down over time. There may be no option to even fix your camera unless you find a similar model for parts and send that along to the repair shop. Make sure you get the parts camera back as you may need it later! If you like tinkering and the camera isn't one you'd miss if you couldn't fix it, then you could always give it a shot yourself. You can pick up a set of jeweler's screwdrivers and pliers from the web or Radio Shack for under $20 and find old film cameras on EBay or Craigslist at a decent price. Just be sure they don't have the same problem as your current camera does!

Grinding Noise When Advancing Film
This is most often caused either by a broken part, metal shavings or dirt/debris in the winding mechanism. Again, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself and it's not an expensive collector's model, you can try to repair it yourself. Hunt down a PDF service manual for your camera on the using Google web (a lot of collectors share them) and it should show you how to remove the cover to see the winding mechanism area. Look for debris in the gears and springs and remove it with short blasts of canned air but be sure you hold the camera so any debris falls out and not further into the camera. You can also use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to remove any debris, but don't use water, and let the area dry completely. Once you've done this, you'll need to apply a light lubricant to the area but only if it was lubricated before you cleaned. Use thin white lithium grease or an oil or grease used by clock repair shops and apply it with a toothpick as you don't need much. DON'T USE WD-40! It will do more damage than help.

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS WITH MOTORDRIVE ATTACHMENTS:

These are manual wind cameras like the Minolta X-700 or Nikon FM2 that have an attachable motor drive that winds the film for you. Pretty much the same suggestions previously noted can be tried with a couple of exceptions:
Check the batteries and contacts in the winder making sure they're clean and not bent or broken. You can clean battery contacts with a CLEAN pencil eraser or alcohol and a Q-tip. Blow any dust and debris out of the compartment afterwards.If you still experience problems remove the winder and be sure the coupling that locks into the bottom of the camera to wind the film is not jammed or damaged. With batteries in the winder and the power turned on, look for a series of contacts on the top of the winder that mate with your camera. Be sure these aren't dirty or broken as well. Using a paper clip, you should be able to short one or more of them to another to activate the winder to make sure it works properly.

When All Else Fails - A Bigger Hammer
If none of the previous suggestions work and if, ONLY if you don't value the camera for collector's value a firm tap might work as a last ditch effort. I once had an old Minolta SRT that locked up solid. I didn't want to bother with trying to open it up as I only used it for a shelf display so I took the lens off, used a wad of very clean, soft foam to hold the mirror steady and wacked it twice on the counter. Not enough to damage the camera body (or the counter!) but a good smack. Whatever was jammed came loose and the advanced began to work. As I said, I only use it for display so I don't know if it affected the shutter speeds, etc. but it worked and cost me nothing but time.

AUTO/POWER ADVANCE CAMERAS:

Newer "old" 35mm film cameras used a power winder motor to advance the film and **** the shutter. If you experience a jammed advance on these cameras, check the film path, sprockets and make sure they are clear and move freely, as I described previously. Try the film release button and see if that will release the drive as well. Another option that has worked at times is to remove the film, lens and all batteries from the camera (including any date/time battery) for at least a day or two to see if the camera will reset itself. This worked for me once with a Nikon N70.
As a last ditch effort, the table smack might work as well, but I make no promises and it's all your fault if you damage the camera beyond repair... or your furniture!

on Jan 06, 2015 | Photography

1 Answer

Film advance lever stuck. Changed batteries but can not move the film advance lever.


Hi fmerlin, If you have film in it you may need to remove the film to free up the advance lever. Go into a closet cover under a blanket etc. Also, Walmart and most drug stores have a big change bag that they could do it for you. With film out it still will not advance it will need to go to Nikon.

Aug 18, 2010 | Nikonos V 35mm Point and Shoot Camera

1 Answer

FILM ADVANCE/SHUTTER STUCK


Start simple and go from there.

I don't know if you have film in the camera so I'll read the following and choose what works for you.

I will assume the battery is working if applicable.

As stupid as this sounds press the shutter release button. If the shutter is cocked it will hold the advance. I've had people come in with this problem.

Not it?

If the film rewind has been pressed in it will disengage the film advance and stop the shutter mechanism as a result. Open the camera and close the back again resets the release.

If there is film in the camera remove it.

It there are important photos on the film and your rewind is not working use a coat to make a light proof black box. Just turn the sleeves inside out and put the camera in the coat. Wrap it so as it is closed to light. Open the camera remove the film and roll the film back in by hand.

OK so now we have a camera open with no film in it.

Open the back and look just below the shutter. On one side will be a very small "lever". This tells the camera that the film has been advanced and the shutter is cocked. Gently move the lever to the right. It should click. Now try pressing the shutter release.
Note that without film in the camera some cameras will not advance the shutter.

It should clear the problem.

If not something physical in jamming.

The film advance system could be jamming. On the side the film advance is on there will be a plastic "gear" inside the camera. Try moving by hand it should turn. You can reset the shutter this way.

Give this a try.

Hope this is helpful, if it gives you some direction please rate this answer.

Thanks


Mar 14, 2010 | Photography

1 Answer

Film will not advance


Broken "Shutter FPC" .
Needs replacement.

Mar 25, 2009 | Canon Sure Shot Z115 Caption 35mm Point...

1 Answer

Film advance


In most film cameras, a battery is not necessary to manual advance film using the lever. Your Canon AV-1 is no exception. I have owned two cameras from the same group, the AE-1 and the Canon A-1. Neither required a battery for manual film advance.

Make sure the ring around the shutter release button is set to "A", otherwise the shutter won't release and the film lever won't work correctly. If the ring shows an "L", the shutter release is locked.

Here's a graphic of the batteries that can be used in your AV-1:
46f1875.jpg

Nov 17, 2008 | Canon AV1 35mm SLR CAMERA SPARES OR REPAIR...

1 Answer

Advancing film


You can safely remove the bottom cover to have a look. Once you have the bottom plate off you can move the film advance lever and check the movement on the bottom, there may be debris or a broken part

Feb 27, 2008 | Vivitar V3800N 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Film advance lever


Yes this is fairly common with K 1000 and the Spotmatics : although the shutter is cocked and hence you cannot advance film you cannot release shutter because mirror box is not cocked. Remedy : remove bottom cover and locate mirror box lever which protrudes slightely and is movable up and down and is spring loaded. Move upwards until it licks in position ( moving up against spring tension ). Now release the shutter and camera should let you advance the film .

Sep 17, 2007 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Pentax MZ 50 film winding problem


Well, I'm not a camera repairman, but it sounds to me (and probably to you too) that the electronics are damaged or perhaps there's dust in the contacts inside. I also have an MZ-50. There's so many electronics involved and they don't age so gracefully. I would consider buying another one off eBay or you can get a ZX-30 (same as MZ-30) for $75 from Blue Moon Camera & Machine with a 1 year warranty (parts and labor). The best way would be, in my opinion, to get a manual, mechanical camera from the 1970s and put a good lens on it. Those seem to last forever. No electronics to worry about. Advance and rewind the film manually. You can use a digital camera as a light meter to set the aperture and shutter speed. I'm thinking of going this route when my MZ-50 finally conks out.

Apr 25, 2007 | Pentax MZ-50 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Film won't advance


Perhaps you've already solved the mystery. There are 2 parts to the back of that camera, the film back + the part that it slips onto. And they have little safety latches/pins that couple in order to advance the film & release the shutter. I'm sure those just aren't in the right place. Here in Los Angeles you could take it to any major camera store or repair shop & they've help you out.

Mar 06, 2007 | Mamiya RB67 Pro SD Medium Format Camera

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