The top burners with the clicker ignighters work fine. Its the main panel on the top front panel. it is blacked out . we have checked the breaker and the wall plug where the oven is pluged into. it is getting the proper volts. the stove is getting electricity because the top burner ignighters click and light. could it be the control panel. Thank you Judy
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
I assume you have an electric oven.
You have a defective individual burner control.
1.) Pull your oven out so you can get behind it.
2.) Unplug your oven.
3.) Remove the upper back metal cover.
4.) At the top in the center is your main oven control board. On the left are two burner controls and on the right are two burner controls.
5.) Inspect the burner controls for burn marks or melted wires.
6.) Finding the bad control unit, pull the control nob off the front.
7.) Unscrew the burner control in the front.
8.) Remove the connectors on the burner control.
9.) With the burner control in hand. re-attach the upper metal back panel on your stove.
10.) Pug in the stove and push back in place.
11.) On the burner control that you just removed note the part number. Search on the internet for best price.
12.) Continue to use your oven without the burner control.
13.) Install the new burner control when received. Remember to un-plug.
Hello, the first thing i think that should be checked is for 120 vac at the control board all power goes into it then out to the selector and t-stat..the control/relay board is on the rear of the unit and it needs to be pulled out and remove the rear panel, the control. i am having ahard time finding parts breakdown with drawings, but from memory to remove the front control panel ya need to remove the surface burners and the main top and their is screws for the front console under the surface burners. I am assuming the small oven and surface burners work?? I will keep looking to find drawings and let ya know
One of your "switches" to your burners is shorting causing unit to spark when in the off mode, or, you may have a bug problem, bugs have made their way into the spark module.
1: if no bug problem, disconnect stove from electricity, lift top up, remove all of the single connections to each switch to top burners(make sure they don't have any bare wires touching the frame), then plug unit back in, if still sparking then replace module.
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
you need to replace the bottom oven ignighter take the racks out then remove lower oven bottom take it out then remove flame spreader and ignighter will be on burner bar get replacement from appliance repair store take model number with you just because it glowesdon't mean its good it should light withen 30 seconds
Yes, I see this but it isn't real common. The control board (eoc) will have to be replaced. Most of them are costly. If you give me the complete model # from the sticker on the oven (may be behind bottom drawer) I can check into this better for you and get you a price.