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Dryer exhaust temperature

I need to know the typical temperature range of the exhaust air when it leaves the dryer.

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On high turns off at 155 medium high 150 medium 140 low 125 extra low 105 all theese are plus or minus 10 degrees

Posted on Feb 15, 2008

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Kenmore 700 series dryer little temperature difference between delicate and high


Using that thermometer I am guessing that the readings are close to what they should be. Typically there is not as big a temperature change between the two settings. What made her first think there was a big problem in the temperature settings?

Jan 22, 2013 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Electric Dryer #76974150. It only works right the higher heat setting. Will not heat at all on the low heat settings? Any ideas?


If the dryer is running then the thermal fuse is okay.

The temperature is controlled by three parts. There is the operating thermostat which is on the blower housing and is rated at 150 degrees. This is high heat.

The operating thermostat sits in a thermostat heater which is controlled by the temperature switch. The temperature switch controls how much voltage passes it to the thermostat heater. This is how we achieve lower temperatures. There is about a 15/20 degree difference between high heat and low heat.

The restricted vent may have caused the appearance of the dryer running hot.

I would suggest you check the temperature coming out of the exhaust. It can be checked with the vent hose pulled off. Any thermostat with a range between 120 degrees and 160 can be used. With the vent removed check the temperature of the air in the exhaust. At high temperature it should cycle between 135 degrees to approximately 155 degrees. This is high heat.

If you turn the temperature switch to a lower setting such as delicate you should see a lower temperature in the exhaust. It may only be 15 degrees lower but it should show a lower temperature.

I hope this information helps to resolve this problem.

Jan 08, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer shuts off after 5 minutes.hose is clear..appears to get hot...also hot to touch on top


If your dryer is still heating, but your clothes aren't drying properly, you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire run of the exhaust ducting from where it exits your dryer to the point where it leaves your home to ensure you have no kinks, clogs, or excessive bends. The following link explains many of the common problems that can cause poor drying efficiency and longer dry times:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

In severe cases of dryer vent clogging, you may experience condensation inside the drum and/or vent exhaust. The dryer exhausts warm, moist air. If the heat and moisture have no where to go, it will condensate inside the drum and exhaust vent. Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer that is clogged, or has restricted air flow, will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to OVERHEAT. This eventually will lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards.
There are no adjustments that can be made to any of the internal thermostats or heating element to make it run at a higher temperature. All these components have a fixed setting. If the dryer still produces heat, this usually a good sign the heating element is working. If the dryer is clogged, however, the internal protection devices, such as the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Internal Bias Thermostat will shut the heating element off prematurely to prevent the dryer from overheating, and to prevent damage to the heating element. Eventually, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Thermal Fuse will trip and the dryer will not run.or produce heat.
NOTE: If you have already determined the exhaust ventilation is clear from the point where it leaves the back of the dryer to the point where it exits your home, you need to check the vent hose run to ensure there are no excessive bends or kinks that can be causing choke points that restrict air flow. If the vent line checks ok, then you need to inspect your blower fan housing inside the dryer to ensure it is not clogged. If you have any questions, please post back with your COMPLETE MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Dec 23, 2010 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

What is the highest temperature a household dryer should be?


On a low setting the exhaust temperature should average in the 120-125°F range. On medium the temperature should average 130-140°F and on high 140-155°F, depending on the dryers design. Those temperatures should be basically the same with or without clothing.

Nov 03, 2010 | Hotpoint NVL333EY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer takes forever to dry. I checked the exhaust and it was clean and clear. When the dryer is run with nothing in it. The temperature cycles between 130 and 160 degrees. When it has wet clothes in...


You probably still have lint blocking the airflow somewhere. Remove the dryer from the vent hose and feel how much air is leaving the dryer. You should be getting a good flow. Hook it back up and check the air flow at the end of the dryer vent. Even though air still flows through the pipe the lint tends to adhere to the pipe walls and slows down the air flow. Similar to cholesteral adhering to the artery wall. A good cleaning will do wonders.

Sep 08, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer 110.60712990 Series 70 heats but does not dry the clothes. A friend with a meter came over and said that there is 9.8 ohms resistance on the heating element. Is this within normal...


Your heating element is good. It should read between 9 to 13 ohms. If the heating circuits are working, then you don't have a problem with the heating circuits. The numbe ron cause of drye heat related problems, or longer dry times, is poorly installed, or clogged ventilation. A simple test to try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the exhaust should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees).

If the air flow is normal, and your clothes dry normally, the problem is with your exhaust ducting from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits your home. I would recommend you inspect the entire length of your exhaust ventliation to make sure it is free of kinks or clogs if this is the case.

If the air flow is weak, then the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. The most common source of the problem is a clog in the blower fan housing preventing air to flow properly. Remove the blower fan housing cover and clean as necessary. Make sure the blower fan can turn unobstructed.

Let me know if you still have problems. I hope this helps you.

Jun 25, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool model # lgr7646ez3


Here are a list of causes that may contribute to this lack of sufficient drying.


CAUSE
• Lint screen is clogged with lint.
• Restricted air movement.
Exhaust vent or outside
exhaust hood is clogged with
lint.
• Exhaust vent is crushed or
kinked.
• One fuse is blown or circuit
breaker is tripped. The dryer
will appear to operate, but you
will not get any heat.
• Cycle Control knob or temperature
selector is set on air dry.
• Load not contacting the sensor
strips and automatic cycle
ending early.
• Fabric softener sheets blocking
exhaust grill.
• Dryer located in room with
temperature below 45ºF (7ºC).
• Large amount of moisture in
the load.
• Cold rinse water used.
• Load too large and bulky to
dry quickly.


Here are the solutions to combat the issues.


SOLUTION
• Clean lint screen.
• Run dryer for 5-10 minutes. Hold hand under
outside exhaust hood to check air movement. If you
do not feel air moving, clean exhaust system of lint
or replace exhaust vent with heavy metal or flexible
metal vent.
• Replace with heavy metal or flexible metal vent

• Replace fuse or reset breaker.
• Select the right cycle and temperature for the types
of garments being dried.
• Level dryer.
• Use only one softener sheet per load and only use
it once.
• Move dryer to a location with temperatures above
45ºF (7ºC).
• Expect longer dry times with items that hold more
moisture (cottons).
• Expect longer dry times.
• Separate load to tumble freely.

This will help you fix this problem. i suspect an exhaust obstruction.

Mar 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LGR7646E Dryer

2 Answers

A lot of moisture in the exhaust line of dryer...


thats easy the moisture from your clothes ,,and the outside air,,where ever you live its a lot of moisture in the air,,now the cold air from outside is coming back in dryer and the hot moist air is trying to get out,,bingo condensation,,in your dryer exhaust vent tube ,,hince all the water,,,,now to fix that ,,we need to dump all the water from vent exhaust tube ,,you may need a new one because it will mostly rot...and check the flap or put a window exhaust kit on the house or window,,to stop air flow from coming back in the dryer ,,and where done..onthejob

Jan 28, 2009 | Whirlpool LEQ8000JQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating


The most common cause of heater failure is the thermal cutout/thermal fuse/temperature cutout(any of a dozen names for the same thing from different manufacturers) a device on the exhaust ducting near the fan housing. on over temperature, when the air temperature is hotter than the normal range set by the thermostats, these units melt out,
they are not resettable, they are replaced, ~$8 each, except where manufacturers are gouging
they look usually like this 2543d18.jpg or this d733938.jpg conduction good, open circuit fail
common to many dryer models the local parts guy will have them to suit, even if they are labelled with a different make or model

Oct 05, 2008 | GE DBSR453EBWW Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore Elite HE4-lots of heat, clothes not drying


Poor drying problems with dryers generally are attributed to clogged ducting. You have probably heard this before, but the first (and least expensive) fix for any dryer with long dry times is to check the air movement. As well know, dryers require good air flow to ensure proper drying. Now, when you said the air movement is strong, were you checking it at the air vent exhaust outside, or were you checking on the back of the dryer? An easy way to tell if there's a clog in the ducting, or a clog in the dryer is to run one load with the dryer vent disconnected from the back of the machine. Only run one load like this. Not a good idea to blow hot moist air into an enclosed area of your home over a period of time because it can cause mildew problems. If the dryer blows freely and your clothes dry faster, you know you need to check the ducting from where it connects to the wall to where it ends at the exhaust vent. Often it is not enough to just clean the lint trap and the outside vent. You need to check what's in between them as well. Mice and birds are notorious for building nests in dryer vents and clogging them up. Now...if the dryer is blowing poorly at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer, you will need to remove the door kick panel under the door and remove the vent duct housing to get to the blower fan. Make sure you unplug the dryer before attempting this. There are live voltages present even with the dryer turned off. Lint can get trapped in vent housing and restrict the movement of the fan, which, in turn, will cause poor air movement and longer dry times. Last of all, take a temperature reading at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer. A good temperature reading is roughly 140 degrees F. If the temperature is too low, you may have an operating thermostat or high limit thermostat malfunctioning. Check your vent ducting, first and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

Aug 04, 2007 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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