Dishwasher - no spray arm action (by 2 users)

Thanks for the response.

I have the wiring diagram from the back of the kick plate. It shows the TCO(?), door switch, and the electronic control in series with the pump and motor assembly for the wash/rinse circuit. Will I have to test each of those before deciding the motor is bad?

Is there a way to check the capacitor? - which I guess provides sort of a jump start for the motor. I read what you said about replacing individual parts - not to do it. However, I would like to have some idea that I've isolated the problem.

The impeller, will it turn freely if there's no problem? What can go wrong with the impeller? - just the bearing it's attached to I guess.

Er, I'm just getting into this and I've run into a simple problem. The internal rear feed cap (2) is attached to the accumulator assembly (1). I've removed the three hex head screws (3) from the screen part of the accumulator assembly.

The screen part is a light plastic part so I don't want to yank at it too hard. It looks like it should rotate now that the screws are out so I can pull it away from the ears of internal rear feed cap but it's not budging nor is it separating from the other part of the accumulator assembly, not at all.

Any ideas on this stumper?

Again, thanks for your earlier response.

Thanks.

With your help I've managed the small triumph of removing the accumulator assembly. It turns out there was a fourth hex head screw hidden by the feed cap. (I'm thinking when I put it back together I'll take the back wall screw out of the feed tube assembly that the feed cap is hooked up to so that it won't be quite the wrestling match with the snap back to vertical that the feed tube assembly experienced when I rotated the feed cap.)

Anyway, with the accumulator assembly removed and my fingers reaching down to the screen and into the other hole I'm not feeling anything that would be blocking the flow. That was all I could do from the top side right? - I have to inspect the chopper blade and the impeller from the bottom.

Should I remove the heating coil and soak it in vinegar to get the sediment build up off or am I better off leaving it in place? I understand that when you're removing the sump you have to be careful not to damage the heater coil so it seems it'd be advisable to remove it unless there's a sealing problem when it's reinstalled.

I have pulled the dishwasher out and have it on its back. So now I have to take the sump and motor assembly apart to inspect the impeller and the chopper blade. The sump and the motor will come go out the top as a unit and then I'll take the motor apart from the sump on a bench I guess. I'm a little unclear how to remove the sump assembly but I think found a step by step for it. It's just a matter of disconnecting the wires and releasing the clips.

Unless I see a problem I'll be replacing the entire sump and motor assembly (14).

Now when you say the entire "sump and motor assembly" does that include the impeller or will I be removing my old one and installing it on the new motor? Should I get the assembly from Sears itself or go ahead and get it from any appliance parts supply house that has it in stock? Is there an after market manufacturer or is everyone selling the same OEM part?

The dummy is back.

I have removed "protector, foreign" (9) and the star headed screw for "protector inlet (8). I can not get protector inlet (8) to budge. I googled around and found the procedure is to use needlenose pliers, grab some flashing and yank. It is not moving, the rest of the sump is flexing. I guess this part is cemented by lime build up.

Any ideas? I'd like to take a look for any clog before ordering the sump/motor assembly.

And when you say " remove the clips and push the sump up through the top" do the clips slide? I just gave them a quick look but I don't see how they move. Also, should the machine be on its side or on its back?

Your input has been greatly appreciated. I'm out of town a lot and I just ordered the motor/sump assembly today. I never did get that protector, inlet removed to look at the blade. I think I'll try to get a hold of a big pair of channel locks now that I've got the assembly sitting on a bench.

Anyway, the part should be here in four days and I should be up and running by Saturday, March 15. I'll let you know.

Oh yeah, my dishwasher has a plastic tub and the light foam panels that came with the machine. The noise of the water hitting the tub has always been quite loud. Any idea how to deaden that sound a little - just thicker or denser foam?

Many, many thanks. It took a while but I got it done.

I installed a new motor/pump assembly. I never could have done the job with the machine in place. I had a tough time getting the seal to drop down evenly enough to get the clips in and was glad I could tip the machine back and look at what I was doing. I hooked up the dishwasher and I have run it through a couple of cycles.

I ran the Quick Rinse cycle and everything worked fine. I ran a Normal Wash cycle and at some point in the middle of that cycle I heard some harsh mechanical or vibration noise I had not heard before. Maybe this happened during a pump out phase but I did not hear it later in the cycle. Any ideas?

And oh yeah. Help! I can not figure out how to put the toe and access panels back. Does the toe panel (8270026) go first and then the access panel (8543839) insulation mash up against it? I've looked at a diagram at the Sears site and I just can't figure it out.