Question about GE 36 in. Profile JP960SCSS Electric Cooktop
The large burner on the right side turns on when it wants too. It will not stay on. Sometimes it will not turn on at all. Any idea what it may be.
The igniter module is working fine. One of the switches (which are on each valve shaft) is stuck or shorted out. Pull a wire off each one at a time to determine which one is bad. Careful! 120 volts to each wire. Also, this can happen after you spill water into the valve area, if that sounds right, let it dry out.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 25, 2014 | GE 36 in. Profile JP969 Electric Cooktop
Apr 06, 2014 | GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop
Mar 06, 2012 | GE Profile 36" Electric Induction Cooktop...
Jan 19, 2011 | GE Profile JP930 Electric Cooktop
Oct 19, 2010 | GE 36 in. Profile JP960 Electric Cooktop
May 28, 2010 | GE 36 in. Profile JP960 Electric Cooktop
Feb 21, 2010 | GE 36 in. Profile JP960 Electric Cooktop
Sep 19, 2009 | GE 36 in. Profile JP960 Electric Cooktop
Jul 18, 2009 | GE 36 in. Profile JGP963 Stainless Steel...
102 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!