Hi, Question,how's anyone worked with fender valve amp's and had this problem, low gain on all channels after fitting new valve's! if anyone could help that would be great. meny thanks. firstname.lastname@example.org
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Question,how's anyone worked with fender
Hi .... hehehe ...probably more a Marshall man(its a tone thing)... but Fender still rocks, and I have fixed and modded heaps of them ;)
There are many different versions of the same designation valve about these days, some providing better gain than others. The suffix on the valve type designates the particular performance of the valve. BEWARE OF CHEAP CHINESE VALVES. They are mostly crap. Go for brands like Sovtek, ElectroHarmonix, Svetlana for good quality valves at an affordable price.
What model Fender, and what valves have been fitted to it? Get back to me here and I will check to see they are up to it..
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Simple: connect the headphones out (3.5mm jack) to the input jack of your fender (6.3 jack). By doing this you will loose one channel so you better generate a mono signal inside your computer before. Electrically this is no problem, nothing will be damaged.
Turn the gain and volume knobs down and apply a signal from your Mac. Gently increase gain and volume. Et voila wonderful mono sound through a guitar amp
Where is the gain set for that input channel of the low impedance mics? If you have an unbalanced Hi-Z input sharing a channel with a low Z balanced microphone They are sharing the same gain stage op amp- in which case an unamplified microphone loses.
Look at your indicator LED... is it off for the clean? Does it show yellow for drive and red for more?
Depending on if this LED is showing these correctely tells me where to look for problem. If the LED shows these correctely, then problem is with the relays that do the switching or a few transistors that change the gains for the drive and more functions.
I suspect you are going into protect mode which backs the gain way off to prevent over driving.
You MAY be trying to get too much volume out of it. Remember that the value of "3" on the volume means ALMOST nothing as you may have a hotter guitar. Some guitars with internal preamps EASILY overdrive the amps at low settings. Do not use excessive gain at the input.
If the amp is real low volume way below what is needed to play, then there may be a problem with the protection/compressor circuit.
Suggestion: Take your guitar to a music store and compare action on an IDENTICAL amp.
Your amp has two channels - "normal" and "drive." When you are on the normal channel, the "volume" knob controls your gain. In the "drive" channel, the drive knob controls your gain. In both channels, the "master" knob limits how loud the amp will get.
Most likely, you are on the drive channel, so the volume knob will have no effect. Try pushing the "channel select" switch. You should notice the channel indicator lamp (next to the drive knob) turn off. When it is off, you are in the normal mode. Yellow = drive, and red = "more drive."
Experiment with different settings to get a variety of tones.
To get the most out of this amp, try reading the manual, available online here: http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/pdfs/manuals_elec/guitarpdf/Hot_Rod_Deluxe.pdf
These are a real pain to open. You have to remove the front panel to remove a shield to remove the back amplifier power supply area. The power supply is a switching type and has lethal voltages present. Working on this should be done using an isolation transformer. With your symptoms, it is likely one side of the power amp MAY be blown, but do check that the wiring hasn't fallen off and the jack itself. Two pairs of wires come from the power amp to the front panel jacks. document location of ALL the cables you disconnect as they CAN be confusing to restore.
go back in and find where the electrolitic capacitors connect to the board. They look kind of like a battery. One or both of them have broken loose from the main board, preventing any significant current from going to the output transformer, and causing overload. This is a common problem, and it does not take much rough handling to cause it.
where the break is is at the solder connection. Under a magnifying glass, the break will look like a little circle. Float fresh solder on that or any other large solder joints which may be cracked or broken.
Use standard precautions when working around high voltage.
You can check if channel 2 is blown by switching around your RCA plugs. If you are using the speaker wires as high power inputs you can change them. I.E. swap the left channel with the right one.
I assume you checked the gain control on the amp.
If channel 2 works with channel 3's inputs then its your head unit or the wiring.
If you are lazy take the amp to a car audio store and ask them to bench test it for you.