WRT54GS: power light blinks all the time. It's supposed to go steady after it passes POST, right? Is this "bricked?" Should I do this: http://www.lancelhoff.com/how-to-fix-a-bricked-linksys-router/

Not sure what year you have, but you might try leaving the key in the "ON" position for about 15 minutes and see if the security light goes off, if it does it should start for you. The lock cylinder halo will need changing fi it works.

Check the injector circuit. Here's how injectors usually work: when key is on, they have live power available to them. Key on, the circuit is turned on, so power passes through a fuse to the injector on the power wire. (Check the fuse- it's under the hood, most likely.)
To make the injector "pulse" or spray fuel out, the engine computer will internally ground the circuit for a split second. The injector has a power wire to it from that fuse. Then the ground wire at the injector goes into the computer.

If you have a test light, you can test the circuit. First, clip a test light ground lead to negative battery post. With key on, and the injector connector unplugged, check for battery voltage on the power wire. One of the wires should have voltage and will light up the test light. Now, move your test light lead to the battery POSITIVE post. Have a helper be cranking the engine over while you probe the ground wire-the one that did not light up the test light. If the injector circuit ground is good, the test light will now be blinking. (You are putting voltage into the ground wire to the computer, to check if it is properly grounding the circuit. Every time the light blinks, the computer has grounded the circuit.)
If the circuit passes both tests (key on, steady test light on power wire; engine cranking, blinking light on ground wire), then the injector circuit is good. The injector should be pulsing when it is connected and the engine is cranking. If no gas is coming out of the injector, could be that fuel is blocked somewhere (filter?) from reaching the injector, or it could be a shorted injector. Someone with a volt-ohm meter should check the resistance across the injector terminals and compare with manufacturers' specifications. This will determine if the injector is bad.

Sounds like a startup self test. All wireless devices go through a power on self test. Does it connect? You can connect to it and go online? I rarely turn mine off, only in a electrical storm.

actually a pretty easy fix. The pass key computer lost its programming. Put the key in and leave it on with the security light flashing. Just turn off all your accessories and make sure battery is pretty good charge. Anyway after you leave the key on for ten minutes the security light will come on steady so turn key off and right back on and start car. If security light still starts blinking and car stalls then do it again. It will usually work the first time but can take a few times to get it right.

Even i also had a same problem after format a player its working good. Format your player and put songs again. thats it.

Notes:

• Formatting is only available when the player does not playback.
• If the OPR lamp lights red due to low remaining battery power, the player cannot be formatted.
• All data stored on the player will be erased.
• The Content Transfer software included with the player will also be deleted. If necessary,
  download Content Transfer from the customer support web site.

1. Unite the left and right parts to turn off the player.
2. Separate the left and right parts.
3. Press and hold the jog dial for about 15 seconds until the status lamp blinks quickly.
   Release the jog dial. The OPR lamp lights red.
4. Rotate the jog dial within 30 seconds after the OPR lamp lights red.
   The status lamp turns off. The OPR lamp lights alternately green and red each time you rotate the jog dial.
5. Press the jog dial while the OPR lamp lights green.
   The OPR lamp blinks green quickly and formatting is executed. When the OPR lamp turns off, formatting is complete. If you press the jog dial while the OPR lamp lights red, or if 30 seconds have passed, formatting will be canceled.

have a nice song for ever...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You can daignose if the problem is with power brick or computer itself, by connecting any other electorinc device from power brick. See if the green light continue to blink. Further there is a chart given on the power brick, which indicates which lights should be ON for normal state. You can also try replacing the phuse on power brick, if faulty.

My guess is that you have bricked your device. Could be that you did not let the device finish its factory reset after you pressed reset and before you powered it down.
I might consider holding the reset button while powering it up - and checking the brick's voltage to see if the failure was coincidental, (but that should be a red power light) and then calling zyxel.
The manual says that if the power led is not on, "The system is not ready or has malfunctioned." The manual says that you are supposed to press the reset button when the led is green and solid, not when it is blinking, and you are supposed to hold it until the power led starts blinking, which might take up to 10 seconds. This is odd - and I do not believe that the Centurylink installers, who press these reset buttons many times a day (since the guy I talked to reset all modems as a matter of course before using them) hold them that long. But that is what the manual says.

Hope that helps, and sorry for the bad news. Maybe zyxel can help, have you tried contacting them?

When the flash goes into battery saver mode, which it does automatically, the light will blink.
If you are using the external power source, the light should remain steady.
Jeff

Hello,

On most routers when data is being accessed you will see the lights blink rapidly, especially if you are passing video over it. Data connections will blink intermittently but normally not as fast as video.

Hope this helps. Please remember to rate this information.

Thanks