Question about Whirlpool Gold White-on-White 21.9 cu. ft. Conquest Side-By-Side Refrigerator with Ice and Water GD2SHAXLQ Side by Side Refrigerator

3 Answers

Whirlpool side-by-side melted relay.

I woke up this morning and it smelled like there was an electrical fire in the house, I tracked it down to our refrigerator, it's a Whirlpool side-by-side model # GD5SHAXKQ00

I removed the back cover and found the electrical part that plugs into the side of the Embraco compressor # EGY90HLP was pretty much melted, I believe this might be the start relay or switch ? the number on it is 4SP1001, when I removed it I found it had also melted one of the three pins off the compressor, *&%$#!!!

Are there any repairs for the compressor or is it going to have to be replaced due to the melted pin,

And since I don't know exactly how these things work, I'm assuming it was the relay/switch, if thats what it is that caused the problem, and not that the compressor caused the relay to melt?

The fridge is 7 years old and although I do have a Freon license, I have no Freon equipment to work on the system, so I'm also debating if it's worth repairing it or just replacing it, I don't want to spend half the value on a 7 yr old fridge to repair it, the water drain in the freezer is also constantly freezing over, I have to clear it out about every 4-5 months ,

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  • 28 more comments 
  • brianm767 Feb 14, 2008

    No it does not appear to have burnt through the compressor, there is probably about 1/8" of pin still there. I can see where it was arcing at the base, but it appears to be solid, if there was enough for me to slip on some type of connector, I would make a harness and just mount the switch some where else and use the harness to connect the switch to the compressor, but there's not enough there to hold a connector,

  • brianm767 Feb 14, 2008

    Yes I'm pretty sure I do just need a relay, and yes it is a small square white relay,

    But how is it going to make contact with the little bit of stub thats left? I don't think there is enough there to make a positive contact and I'm afraid that might cause arching in it's self, if it barely reaches and there is a very small area of contact there might not be enough contact surface area to handle the current?

    A friend told me there is a part that is specifically made to repair this, he said it mounts on top on the old burnt down compressor post, and some how makes a positive contact, then the relay now mounts to the top of this piece? is this what your talking about? or have you heard of it?

    Oh and thank you, I really appreciate your help!

  • brianm767 Feb 14, 2008

    Oh and I just ohmed out the windings in teh compressor, I have good continuity between all three pins, virtually no resistance at all, so I guess this means noe of them have opened up, and none of them have any continuity to ground, so none of them are shorted either, so I'm thinking the compressor is still good,

    Oh and this also burnt out my GFI plug in the kitchen, it didn't trip, it still has power, and now it wont test, but it was the CB out side that finally tripped, so I have to replace my GFI also,

  • brianm767 Feb 14, 2008

    OK well I might be wrong, I might have two problems, Like I said, I cant trip it, so I cant verify the fridge is on it yet, I assumed it was, because when the CB out side tripped, it took out the fridge and that GFI circuit, maybe there just both on the same CB? I'll find out, I'm going to buy a GFI and I have spare regular outlets, I'll swap out the GFI and trip it, and if the fridge goes out, then I'll know it's on the GFI, and if it's not supposed to be, I'll put in a regular one and tell my builder,

    Off to the Appliance store, I hope they have that 3-1 relay.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    I got the 3-1 relay, it has terminals that slip over the compressors pins, I don't know it theres enough pin to keep it secure, I was able to slip it on and work it down a bit, on a trial run, but I just don't know if it's going to stay on there and be safe, I'm going to play with it some more.

    Also there were three wires going to the relay, I don't have a schematic, maybe it's hidden in the fridge? it's a Whirlpool, where should I look?.
    anyways, there was a white wire that hooked up to the relay then jumped over to another little potted black thing, I'm guessing it's a start up capacitor? a blue wire that just went from the relay over to the other pin on the Capacitor, then a red wire, with the new 3-1 it says to use the two power wires, so I'm assuming these are the white and the red? and the blue wire along with the white jumper that just go to the capacitor and also the capacitor are no longer used, it looks like the new relay incorporates the capacitor in it?

    Am I all messed up or?? I don't want to blow any thing up or damage the compressor more than it is.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Well first yes it is a Supco RCO410, with a hole and clip on top to mount it, and I'm a little confused as to the three wires, I understand what your saying about the diagram, matching it up visually to what I have, but when I do that, it changes the wires from where they were previously connected, meaning, my single pole does look like it's the bottom pin, and before with the relay, the bottom wire on the relay was the red wire, and above that on the upper LT pin, was the white wire, and upper RT was the Blue wire to the cap, if I follow the diagram, and turn it upside down, so it looks like the single pin is now on the bottom it shows the single pin to now be the black wire, (Used to be red) and the white wire has now changed to the opposite pin, and now the red wire is moved from the bottom to the upper Lt where the white wire used to be????

    So are the wires supposed to be in the same place they used to be, or do they get wired differently now that the stand alone Cap is taken out of the syst?

    i hooked it up like it used to be, the comp is very hot to the touch, top and bottom, (Normal?) and it's cycling, I hear what probably is a thermal switch in the comp clicking off and on, and when it does, there is a definite load on the syst, the fan slows down, and the lights inside dim??? cant tell if it's getting any cooler?

    sounds to me I have it wrong, and instead of hooking up the wires where they used to be, I need to move them to new positions?

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Yes it is a Embraco, I have one pin at the bottom, and two on top,
    but they all look evenly spaced, how do you know whats what? is the single pin always either on top or bottom?

    And I'm looking for my diagram that came with the relay, I literally think the puppy made off with it,

    the fridge is getting cold, the freezer is at 29 and the fridge is at 39, but it's still cycling quite frequently, and when it kicks on, I think? the lights dim more than I've ever noticed?

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Yes as far as the cap goes, I have for got about it, I already chucked the blue wire that went to it, and the little jumper is now just insulated,

    to me it just seems that the power wires I used before on the relay, would still go to the same pins on the comp, , meaning the red wire would still be on the bottom pin, and the white would still be on the upper LT pin as it's viewed? if I go by the diagram, and orient it so the single or common pin is at the bottom, this changes where the power wires are connected as compared to where they were with the relay installed,

    Am I confusing you yet?

    it sounds like it's cycling every 1 min, it clicks on for about 4-5 secs, then off for one min.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Doing it, sorry, I'm not a fridge meck, but I feel your pain, I know exactly how you feel, I work with some pretty dumb guys who just dont get it. be back in a min

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    OK I turned my schematic upside down, I now have the black wire on the bottom pin, the red wire on the upper LT pin, and white wire on the upper RT pin.

    Same symptoms as before, I hear a click in the comp, momentary load on fridge, fans slow, lights dim for about 3-4 secs, then click and lights and fan return to normal, , repeats every 60 seconds,

    sounds like I have another problem or there's not enough freon in it? it was working perfectly before this am when it fried.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    No your not frustrating me at all. I appreciate your help, I normally work on Boeing 767's and I cant fix a fridge, it's just funny! if it was a motorcycle or a jet engine, it would be flying allready, but I've never worked on appliances other than dryers, and I have no schematic, thats whats frustrating,

    I did work on freon systems in a small commuter aircraft years ago, thats why I have a freon license, but honestly, I worked the line so all I did was service it, and I dont even remember how to do that?

    Is it possible that the comp is bad? I ohmed out the windings, had virtually no resistance between all pins, and there were no shorts to ground, but?? shouldn't one of the lines coming out of the comp be cold? most are hot and one is cool,


  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    will it hurt to have it running tonight like it is? and FYI: this am when it was fried, before I opened it up, I also heard it cycling even with the relay melted, the comp was clicking every minute or so,

    I'm west coast, what time zone are you?

    also FYI, my wife called a repair man, trying to not have that happen, i'm off work due to an injury, so bucks are tight. and i dont want to have to charge a new fridge.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    LOL, go take care o the wife! mine is waiting for me too,

    I've flown in a B25 and a T6, but I dream about flying in a P51, you can do it out here for $500, he cant charge you since it's experimental category, but you buy a hat for $500 and he'll take you up for free!

    I have a large P51 model sitting on my safe, i smile every time I look at it, the stuff I work on is boring, B767, DC8's & DC9's, Yuk! and teh pilots heads are bigger than theri aircraft.

    I have some friends who volunteer to work on Rare Bear at the reno air races and some who used to work on Strega! that would be cool,

    Good night. good luck!

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Yah I took off sitting behind teh pilot, but once airborne, a buddyof mine and me were able to climp through the little space then sit in teh glass nose equipted with .50's an fly up there, it was beautiful, we also diod several high speed passes down teh flight line at an airshow, pretty cool day.

    i was at teh right place at teh right time, they were having Hydraulic problems at an air show here in Fresno, my partner and me helped them with getting their aircraft over to our ramp and loaned them tools and equipt to help fix the B25, and I towed it back to the flight line for them, then they said what are you doing for the next hour? I said hopefully flying with you!, they said get in! and I was on the clock at work too!!,

    My friends boyfriend flys a T6 on the air show circuit, he took me up for about two hours and did some aerobatics over a local lake, it was pretty cool also, I got to fly that one.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    No DC8 and 9, not DC3 which was teh civilian C47, 8 and 9's are modern jets

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Sorry, I don't have one, only a fluke, and my wife says I'm out of time, there's supposed to be a guy here pretty soon to look at it, she has no faith in me.

    I also reverse the two upper wires last night, no change, there back as per the diagram.

    it seems like teh comp never really runs, it's like it tries to start, thats when if goes dim for three sec or so, then kicks off, tries this ever 1 min, I did ohm out the windings, and check for a short, and it seemed good,

    ????


  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Well teh guy came and went, he was a really nice older gentlemen, I think I've seen him before with one of the Christian motorcycle riding groups Ive met before.

    He says it's the compressor, he says it wants to start, but it wont, I told him I had ohmed every thing and it checks good, he did the same, on the bad pin if you push the pin down all the way it (the connector, not the pin) will short to ground since the potting at teh base got so hot is just flaked away, I made two little gaskets out of heat shrink and slipped them over the post to try to make sure it doesn't short, still no fix, it trys to start , then it wont, i dont think teh connector is shorting, it just wont work.

    What voltage drop test?

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    OK I have 121.2 V, plug it in, doesn't change right away, then when comp tries to start it drops to 111.6V

    I'm using a small welded terminal on the compressor that is used for it's ground , i verified it's a good ground, I have good continuity with any where on the fridge i check, chassis, comp housing where I scratched into it,etc.. but no continuity between ground and any comp pin, even the burnt one, I even pressed in in kind of hard at teh base, my littel gasket is working, the RCO terminal wont ground out when installed, I rechecked all three pins, I have .0001 ohms between them all in any configuration, so no open windings either.

    ???


    If it comes down to a comp, we probably wont repair it, it's a very nice Whirlpool Gold 25CF fridge, but if it cost me between $500-$600 to fix, I'd rather go out and try to find one on sale and have another 5 yr warranty, then repair a 7yr old fridge for half it's value when it was new, there's probably going to be some good sales this week end also??

    i hate to throw it away, if I knew how to replace it or had a way of having sonme one do it on teh cheap, this would be a great fridge for my kids when they get their own place.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    that was with a cord on a different outlet, I've tried it in four different ones, including a dedicated fridge outlet in the garage on a 30A Cb

    on some of them it drops to 106v when the comp tried to start, and I checked again, i have a good ground on the housing, and there's no continuity with any of the pins, but I think it's new compressor time? like I said, when the lights dim inside, you can tell it's way to much of a draw on the electrical syst on the fridge,

    i don't know about in this case, but I do know at times on aircraft wiring will check good with an Ohm meter, so you think it's good, but when we use a Megger and shoot some pretty good current through it, that's when it will break down and open up, or jump to ground, maybe it's the same here, it ohms good, but when the current hits it , it's bad , or may then it has enough juice to then short to ground where the meter does not??

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Meaning the RCO?? I have a single pin at the bottom, I have the black wire going to it, I have the red wire going to the upper LT RUN pin, and the white wire going to the upper RT Start pin,

    the repair guy verified it was wired correctly as per teh diagram, he did exactly what you told me to do, he looked at it, said you have a pin at teh bottom, turned teh diagram upside down, and said yep, it's wired right.

    i don't know what else to try,

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    I'm not sure I understand? do you mean the two power wires in? the red and white from the fridge to the two black wires on the cap?

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Swapped the power wires to the 3-1, no difference.

  • brianm767 Feb 15, 2008

    Ok, my wife wants to go buy a new one, I wouldn't mind keeping this one and trying to fix it, I saw some where on line where you could get a compressor kit for $247? not sure if it's the right one,

    I might consider pushing it aside in the garage till I can get to it, but the wife will want it out of here. I'm not sure i could win that discussion, we have too much stuff around here as it is,

    I really appreciate all your help, I've learned allot, I'll let you know if I end up keeping it.

  • brianm767 Feb 16, 2008

    Thanks tech17, although we didn't get it fixed, we figured out what was wrong, couldn't have done it with out you, thanks for all the excellent trouble shooting tips, I learned allot.

  • brianm767 Feb 23, 2008

    Dude, the switch is melted and it took out the compressor, on our new fridge I'm installing the 3-1 relay to eliminate that switch on the compressor.

    What a stupid design, it's almost it's designed that way so you'll have to buy a new fridge when the $20 dollar relay melts your compressor terminals,

  • Anonymous Nov 11, 2008

    Whirlpool relay replacement . is 5 start and 6 common?

  • stevez70ss Jan 03, 2009

    same problem, I bought 3in1 start switch but when I installed it, the compressor did not start.

  • Anonymous Feb 06, 2009

    no power to blower motor on whirlpool frig.model gd5nhgxlq00 is it fused relay melted but fan would still run now all of a sudden it won't

  • Anonymous Feb 28, 2009

    burned out white plug that connects to the compressor

  • bonestheman Apr 06, 2009

    I have a EGY90HLP When I hook up the 3n1 after 6 sec. it kicks out and 40sec. later it kicks back out. and the process repeats, checked the pnsi on the comp. they all have ohm readings, I scratched the paint on comp. and touched each pin and i get ohm reading, is that ok?

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Maytag (owned by Whirlpool since 2005) has issued a recall on the compressor relay due to fires. Whirlpool brands are not listed in the recall but it looks like they should be. The problem goes back to Jan 01 according to the Consumer Product Safety Comission.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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Did it burn through the compressor or is any of the pin sticking out

Posted on Feb 14, 2008

  • 25 more comments 
  • robert samples Feb 14, 2008

    no sweat the rely is the problem bet its white and square huh listen go to the appliance parts store and tell them you want a 3in 1 rely 1/4 horse or less follow the inst on the pack its real easy you'll have no more problems if it didn't short the compressor and i haven't seen that happened yet then get back to me when its running and we will deal with the freezing promb when the unit is running ok and if you have a promblem installing the 3/1 jut turn the diagram pic to match way your terminals are positioned hook it up like that

  • robert samples Feb 14, 2008

    once you get the 3in1 you will see how it will fit trust me

  • robert samples Feb 14, 2008

    your not supposed to run fridges on gfi replace it with reg plug

  • robert samples Feb 14, 2008

    they do and trut me the rely caused the promblem

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    the three wires with the push on terminals go on the compressoer sounds to me like you got it dont worry the connector wont fall off the pin there is not that much vibration did you match the diagram on the 3in1to the terminals on the compresser i mean its like a triangle if you single pin is on top then follow the diagram if your single pin is on bottom turn the diagram upside down got that just use the white and red wire the 3in1 has its own cap built in dont need the black potted thing your 3in1 has a big round peice on it with a clip right like a cylinder

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    ok no sweat is your single pole at the top or bottom of the compressor you have an embraco comp right do you have the diragram on the package of the three and one rely

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    doesent matter if the diagram is upside down follow it

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    if you have the rc4 forget about the cap on the fridge you dont need it no more and the comp will get hot if the single term is at the bottom then turn the diag upside down and follow it forget about the cap on the fridge its gone now for get about its wires

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    the single pin is either at the top or the bottom red is runn white is start and black is common if i remember correctly let me check and ill get back to you in a sec ok

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    god i wish i could do hands on for you but this is my best advice turn the digram so the single pin is at the bottom because thats what embraco shows and wire it that way im standing by

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    bud dont talk that way were wourking through it to gather we will get it done we are breaking new ground here internet repair its just too cool ok im worried im frusting you long as you hang i will too

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    no freon wont cause this i think we still aint got it wired right look take a rest i have diagrams in my truck will get them in am we will get it done ok my friend

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    chattanooga tennessee no let it run and your cool embraco is a tough compressor and god i love air planes b17 b25 p38 im a big fan ill get the info tomorrow out of my van and we Will fix it ok my favorite is p51 mustang i envy you you lucky dog but im a expert in appliances repair and its not hard its Reilly simple god be with you ill be back in the morning i think my wife wants to get pregenet and i should be there lol

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    ok new day lets check the outlet your using for a voltage drop get your meter take the load off the outlet get a reading leave the meter in then turn the fridge on if the voltage drops 12 volts or more the promblem is in the out let

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    put red on the upper left white on the upper right and black on the bottom

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    man you lucky dog you got to fly in a b25 and t6 they are both legends the b25 wow carrirer launching dolittle raid wow i envy you

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    wow dc8 dc9 wow ww2jump plane finest ever built dc9 berlin air drop i havnt even seen one in real life none of them

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    ok back to fridge if you have an induction type meter clip it around the red lead and check the running amps should be about 1to1.5 amps

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    well get an extension cord and plug it in another outlet and most of the time repairmen come in and quote you a price so large you would rather buy a new fridge did you do the voltage drop test

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    turn the fridge off you plug your meter just below the fridge plug in the same outlet take a reading then turn the fridge on see if the voltage drops if it drops 10 percent the promblems ohm the terminals again but scratch some paint on the compressor and touch one lead to the compressor and one to the terminals if you get a reading then its shorted to ground are you going to change the comp or what

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    thats a voltage drop get a heavy extension cord and run the fridge to another out let and you might be supprised

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    now how is it wired again you may be right but it shouldnt be able to drop your house voltage like that

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    try switching the wires on the capicater on the 3in1

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    well if you want to replace it we can do it ill take you step by step my e mail is b4829@yahoo.com email me might interst you in a bussiness venture

  • robert samples Feb 15, 2008

    listen i just rememberd i have about 20 grand in inventory in a storage building if you do keep it ill give you a compressor for it if you pay shipping

  • robert samples Feb 16, 2008

    well got your e mail later ill send you a url where you can go watch training videos on appliances for free but you have to keep it a sercert lol

  • robert samples Feb 23, 2008

    if its white yes and a whirlpool

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Dude it is that switch that mounts on the side of the compressor. Replace that and clean the cooling fins underneath or else you will be replacing another one 2 years from now ;)

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

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SOURCE: Whirlpool side by side compressor replacement?

uk price is about £250 fitted i done one about 2 months ago. or thats what my company charge

Posted on Feb 14, 2008

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