I have two 2400 watt FUBR Power Acoustic subs that I am having an issue with on one.…it is hooked to an 1800 watt JPL amp…everything has worked perfect for three years but now…. One of the subs internally is catching on something. When the cone goes in and out it is catching and clicking. There is no tear or wire pulled off, it is a physical part of the internal baffle (or cone or whatever it is) that is catching. It is only one spot inside but I cannot see it due to the surrounding metal (which is perforated). Any ideas on what this is or if it is fixable? Thanks for any help you can provide….
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this bandpass enclosure is rated peak power at 1200 watts . what this means is that each subwoofer in the is peaked at 600watts to make 1200 watts . what your looking for is to power up the subs with rms continuous wattage . you need an amp that will put out 400 to 500 rms a channel to run this sub enclosure at 800 to 1000 watts rms to keep the speaker from blowing
this amp will give you
1 channel @ 4 ohm x1 350 watts
1 channel @ 2 ohm x1 900 wats
1 channel @ 1 ohm x1 1800 watts
you would have extra power for better subs with more power later but you get 900 watts which when connected right would mean 450 watts per sub be perfect for you .
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the problem sounds like your new sub is drawing to much power and your amp can not handle it. bridging the amp is a good way to get the full power out of your amp. But it isnt always suggested, my solution is to get a bigger amp. I install stereo systems for a living, and i tell my customers that it is smart to get an amp about 100 more watts then the rms rating of your subwoofer.
Is there a option on the chanels that say ''Bridged''? If so, you can hook the subs up in parellel or series to get different ohm loads. Usually the lower ohms, the more power amp puts out. Those subs can handle 225 watts RMS whitch means the power it can handle constantly. If the amp gives more than 225 watts RMs, you could be at risk of blowing the sub. If you could give me the model # of the amp, I can be of more help.
if the speaker cone moves it should produce some sound if it doesn't move when power is applied then the voice coil is frozen.
not really a power issue unless its a "powered sub" and if that's the case then you should not be running in high level sound using speaker wire (especially off a 300 w amp) but instead a low level signal via RCA cable.
That 1600 watt peak power figure for your subwoofer can't tell you what amp you need. You need to know the maximum RMS power the sub can handle. And you need to know the impedance (ohms) of the voice coil(s). JBL GT5 series subs have an RMS rating of 275 watts. The GTO series handles 300 watts. The Power series handles 400 watts. The GTi series handles 700 watts. Some are single voice coil, so the impedance is fixed. Others are dual voice coil allowing you to wire them for different impedance loads.
For maximum performance your amp should be able to provide at or near the same number of watts RMS into the lowest impedance at which the sub can be configured. For example, if your sub is the Power Series Model number P1224, it has dual 4ohm voice coils and can be wired to present either a 2ohm load (parallel) or an 8ohm load (series). You want to wire the voice coils in parallel for the 2ohm load and select an amp that outputs up to 400 watts RMS into 2ohms. The Orion Cobalt CO8001 is just such an amp. If you have one of the GTi Series subs, a better amp would be the JVC Arsenal KS-AR75 which outputs 700 watts into 2ohms.
Think as an expert...
Probably from my experience repairing woofers etc... the cone (1) or the spider (2) isn't well glued onto the woofer skeleton(or both???)
The woofer cone must be absolutely centered or else you will get those clicks in low frequencies(you also get them in higher frequencies but you can't hear them!)
I must say that it is very difficult to repair a woofer by your own.
I suggest to return it back where you bought it and take another one (i suppose that you have a guarantee ha?).