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Snow shovel's edge worn down --who sells replacement parts

Snow pusher by Craftsman The edge of the snow pusher has worn down to the metal that it's connected to. I want to unrivot it and put a new edge on it. Where can I get a part from?

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  • famousamos Feb 14, 2008

    The part I'm looking for is made for a snow shovel, the edge that touches the ground first, pushes the snow and glides the shovel over the ground. Who sell's it and where can I get that part from.

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You can find a generic part here
http://yeomanandcompany.com/

Posted on Jan 28, 2011

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The blades seem loose and chatter. Two blade sets have gotten broken tabs. It seems as though the metal blade release isn't holding the blades down properly. If I seat a blade and then hold the release...


your blade need to be adjusted and also we need to check the hinge for spring tension, also your sockets on your blades may be worn out. e-mail askmannyssharpening@yahoo.com they can help you with this problem.

Mar 06, 2010 | Oster Golden A5 2-Speed Universal Motor...

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Where do you grease and oil clippers at?


The cover plate is the part with two screws that has the name and other info on it. If you remove the two screws and the plate, you will see a nylon part that moves the blade back and forth--that is the lever. The other end of the lever, with a hole in it, is connected to a metal part called the link. Both parts are easily removed by simply pulling them upward from the device (if they are worn, they should be replaced. They, and the Bakelite gear, are available from various dealers through Amazon under Oster Parts). The bakelite gear is the part that the link sits on (the larger hole in the link). It too can be simply pulled up off the metal shaft that it rides upon (careful not to lose the washer under it). Check it for worn or missing teeth.
If you don’t have a tube of oster grease, a good white lithium grease is recommended in light application for the gear and the shafts (lever and gear shafts and armature gear). Also, the gear shaft has a hole down its middle (and two small holes that lead to the outside of the shaft. The shaft should be filled with grease so that grease can get through those small holes to lubicate the inside of the bakelite bearing. The small pads on each side of the lever (in the case) are oiled, not greased.
The bearings for the Oster are sleeve bearings that require oil (the one closest to the blade is served by the oil port; the little round chrome looking thing with the spring loaded ball in it). The other end is more difficult and would require disassembly, at which time it probably should be replaced.
Oster clippers, by the way, are known for getting pretty warm. Oster blade wash will help with that, as well as oiling the blades.
Hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

Oster A5 clippers are slow and vibrating noisily even without a blade attache. Any ideas what could be wrong with them please as I have a dog only half clipped at the moment. Thanks


If the nylon lever (the tab that moves the blade back and forth) is not moving with the blade off, or only moving sometimes, chances are that you have a stripped bakelite gear. Take the two screws out of the cover plate and remove it. Remove the lever (the nylon part that moves the blade) Remove the link (the metal part that the lever connects with). Remove the bakelite gear (the part that the link fits down over). You should then be able to see if the teeth are chewed or worn off to the point that the armature gear will not turn the bakelite gear. If that is the case, replace the gear. Amazon carries both single speed and 2 speed gears under Oster A5 clipper parts. All these parts should have a light coat, where they move, of lithium grease, and the two pads (one on each side of the lever) should be oiled. You might also check the condition of your brushes (under the caps on each side of the clipper. Take cap off, remove cover from brush, remove spring and brush to see how worn they are).
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Aug 10, 2009 | Oster Golden A5 2-Speed Universal Motor...

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There is a small gun-metal colored bar at the very rear, just below the back of the blade. It pushes inward, in the direction of the blade. Push it firmly in and pull up on the teeth of the blade. It should pop upward. You can then remove the blade from the tongue that it sits upon. When you want to put it back, slide the blade back on the tongue, then, WITH THE MOTOR TURNED ON, push the blade down to its seated position. It will click into place.
Terms regarding these devices are all too often assumed as understood. For most purposes, these are what you have to know for the A5 Oster. The cover plate is the part with two screws that has the name and other info on it. If you remove the two screws and the plate, you will see a nylon part that moves the blade back and forth--that is the lever. The other end of the lever, with a hole in it, is connected to a metal part called the link. Both parts are easily removed by simply pulling them upward from the device. The bakelite gear is the part that the link sits on (the larger hole in the link). It too can be simply pulled up off the metal shaft that it rides upon (careful not to lose the washer under it). That gear is turned by the armature gear of the motor (which is where things get much too involved to cover here, but from that point on the device very rarely has problems). Incidentally, the lever, the link, and the gear can all quite simply be replaced. They are available quite inexpensively at Amazon under Oster A5 Clipper parts (note that the one speed and the two speed take different bakelite gears, but the lever and the link are the same). If you were to replace parts such as these or simply lubricate them, remember that a good white lithium grease is recommended in light application for the gear and the shafts (lever and gear shafts and armature gear). Also, the gear shaft has a hole down its middle (and two small holes that lead to the outside of the shaft. The shaft should be filled with grease so that grease can get through those small holes to lubicate the inside of the bakelite bearing. The two pads (one on each side of the lever) should be oiled. The simple way to tell if you need to replace parts is to grip the blade end of the lever while all parts are in place and try to move it back and forth, as though it were running the blade. If there is any more than the slightest movement, replace the lever (replace that anyway if the part that contacts the blade is rounded off) link and gear.
Good luck.

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Fixable A5 Clippers?


If the power lever (the tab that moves the blade back and forth) is not moving with the blade off, or only moving sometimes, chances are that you have a stripped bakelite gear. Take the two screws out of the cover plate and remove it. Remove the lever (the nylon part that moves the blade) Remove the link (the metal part that the lever connects with). Remove the bakelite gear (the part that the link fits down over). You should then be able to see if the teeth are chewed or worn off to the point that the armature gear will not turn the bakelite gear. If that is the case, replace the gear. Amazon2.gif carries both single speed and 2 speed gears under Oster A5 clipper parts. All these parts should have a light coat, where they move, of lithium grease, and the two pads (one on each side of the lever) should be oiled. You might also check the condition of your brushes (under the caps on each side of the clipper. Take cap off, remove cover from brush, remove spring and brush to see how worn they are).
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If the power lever (the tab that moves the blade back and forth) is not moving with the blade off, chances are that you have a stripped bakelite gear. Take the two screws out of the cover plate and remove it. Remove the lever. Remove the link (the metal part that the lever connects with). Remove the bakelite gear (the part that the link fits down over). You should then be able to see if the teeth are chewed or worn off to the point that the armature gear will not turn the bakelite gear. If that is the case, replace the gear. Amazon carries both single speed and 2 speed gears under Oster A5 clipper parts.
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Opening a Braun 7000 Series Shaver

1) Find a thin metal object with no sharp edges (such as a nail file). Use your thumb and pull on the bottom end cord socket part, enough to cause a gap between it and the back shell. Insert the metal object into the gap in the center of the part. THEN pry it off. If you use a regular screw driver, you will likely cause gouges in the plastic. And the best leverage is in the center.

2) The silver side parts are held on by two tabs at the top. With the bottom piece gone, the side parts swing off easily. Don't worry about keeping track of which sides the silver trim pieces go on, as they're designed to fit on only one side (you'll see the cutout for the shaver head stem is off to one side).

3) The case is held together by 4 small torq screws. Use a torq screwdriver--do not attempt to do this with anything else. Be careful to turn the screws slowly, so you don't strip them.

4) With the screws removed, the two halves of the shaver will come apart. The remaining parts can be extracted without any special tools. Keep note of how they are removed, as assembly will be the reversal of removal.

5) Note that if you are replacing the batteries (there are two of them), you will need a soldering iron to detach them from the circuit board, unless you're replacing the whole part.

6) Reassembly is pretty much what you expect--the reverse of disassembly. However, the bottom cord socket part is tricky to get put into place. Pushing straight down on this part will not get it to go in, nor any other obvious way. It's best to get the prongs inserted on one side, then while pushing in on the prongs of the opposite side, apply pressure on the top side surfaces. The part should snap right back into place.

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Opening a Braun 7000 Series Shaver

1) Find a thin metal object with no sharp edges (such as a nail file). Use your thumb and pull on the bottom end cord socket part, enough to cause a gap between it and the back shell. Insert the metal object into the gap in the center of the part. THEN pry it off. If you use a regular screw driver, you will likely cause gouges in the plastic. And the best leverage is in the center.

2) The silver side parts are held on by two tabs at the top. With the bottom piece gone, the side parts swing off easily. Don't worry about keeping track of which sides the silver trim pieces go on, as they're designed to fit on only one side (you'll see the cutout for the shaver head stem is off to one side).

3) The case is held together by 4 small torq screws. Use a torq screwdriver--do not attempt to do this with anything else. Be careful to turn the screws slowly, so you don't strip them.

4) With the screws removed, the two halves of the shaver will come apart. The remaining parts can be extracted without any special tools. Keep note of how they are removed, as assembly will be the reversal of removal.

5) Note that if you are replacing the batteries (there are two of them), you will need a soldering iron to detach them from the circuit board, unless you're replacing the whole part.

6) Reassembly is pretty much what you expect--the reverse of disassembly. However, the bottom cord socket part is tricky to get put into place. Pushing straight down on this part will not get it to go in, nor any other obvious way. It's best to get the prongs inserted on one side, then while pushing in on the prongs of the opposite side, apply pressure on the top side surfaces. The part should snap right back into place.

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