Ice builds up in the freezer under the fan and jams it. Heater works and the coils are free of ice. The timer has been repaced but the problem seems to still come and go about once a year. Could a relay be stuck or what ?
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Re: Auto defrost problem GE Profile PTC22MFMARWW
No relay stucks...you say once a year?..could be in winter time?...it could just be normal...try to increase the temperature setting on the thermostat on these times of the year. to increase the temperature of the coils to minimize frosting build up.
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if you are talking about the motor in the freezer the ice build up could be causing the fan to beat against the ice... could be a defrost cycle problem,,,, if ice is building up on rear freezer wall you have a defrost cycle problem and the ice is forminf around fan causing fan blades to hit the ice (loud noise)
the ice is caused from the frozen drain in the back. the cold coil is also frosen / this stopes the air to the fresh food .. so defrost the freezer and ck the heater and defrost termator . . you may also need the main control that has the defrost timer on it . located on the back of frig.. hope this helps . mm
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The Ice Maker and the Freezer/Fridge part of the unit work separate, that's why you get the ice made but the freezer can't keep it frozen.
Most likely the condenser, located in the back of the freezer is all frozen and covered with ice pluggin up the air ducts to the fridge, preventing it from cooling.
One quick solution will be unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it’s own or remove the freezer's back panel and using a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice, this will take about 20 to 30 min..
There are various reasons this type of problem:
The temp. controls are not set properly. Set controls according to manufacturer recomendation.
The small fan in the freezer is not working,
The defros timer is not working or,
The defrost heater coil is busted.
Once the ice is melted, plug unit back in and check for unit reactions. You should be able to hear the freezer fan working. Also, you'll hear about 4 to 6 times a day the defrost heater melting the ice in the back of the freezer, if NOT, check heater coil for continuity.
my refrigerator goes into auto defrost every 60hrs for 45 minutes or till the bi metal(defrost thermostat) says it had enough....recently i had ice built up on the coil because my defrost thermostat was stuck open...
ice builds up because the moisture that comes from opening the door or food condenses on the cold coil...tempurature of the coil is below 32 degrees which will ice up the condensed moisture...
Maybe a 50/50 chance problem solved . A lot of frost , would probably be a defrost problem beginning though . I would remove the heater and check for continuity while disassembled .If heater is bad (most common problem with GE, not the only,but most common)Pt # WR51X10055 .Also make sure both fans are working , especially fan in freezer (may have to push lite switch in to check , or just listen .
Refrigerator not cooling, ice forming on back of side-by-side freezer: Turn off unit. Empty freezer section. Remove freezer back panel (4 screws) to expose iced-over coils. Use a fan to speed up defrosting. Put a towel or a plastic drip pan in the bottom of the freezer to collect melting water (rather than letting the water collect and maybe overflowing in the drip pan underneath the refrigerator). After defrosting, by temporarily replacing the freezer back panel and turning on the unit, the refrigerator may operate OK for about 3 weeks before the next excessive ice build up. Possible problem- a burned out Defrost Heater. To check: After defrosting, turn off power to or unplug the refrigerator. Unscrew the Defrost Heater bracket (2 screws). When loose, unplug the two wires connected to the unit. Have the unit checked, or use an ohm-meter to check continuity. If unit measures "open", high resistance, replace the Defrost Heater and bracket. If the heating element shows continuity (or low resistance) the heater is probably OK and you have another problem. Now you may need to contact a repair man.
First of all you need to clean the coils (condenser coils under the unit or evaporator coils inside the freezer). The coils inside could be iced over because of failure of defrost system. Now check that the condenser fan under the fridge is working properly. Check that the fan in the freezer work which pulls cold air from the coils inside freezer and blows it to the fridge side. Are the temperature control knobs in the fridge adjusted correctly? It actually just opens a vent to let more or less cold air in from the freezer. It takes a while for the ice to build up in the freezer enough to affect the cooling.
My first guess would be the defrost timer. You can manually turn it to engage the defrost cycle and observe whether or not the defrost heaters come on. Now use a hair dryer to speed up melting the ice when there is lots of ice buildup. Most timers are 24 hour timers. It will turn the defroster on every 6 or maybe 12 hours depending on the model.
Before testing the defrost heater, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.
The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
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We had the same problem with our GE frig, a Profile 24. When the tech came out, he explained that the energy efficient models have only 1 defrost heater, but the older units had 2 and the hook up and mounting positions were still there. As long as I directed him to install the 2nd heater he could do it. It turned out the original heater was just fine, so the replacement was installed in the 2nd heater space and it has worked fine for several years now. Before doing this on yours, I would verify that the defrost timer is working and the heater unit is ok.