Question about Maytag Performa PAV2200

1 Answer

Maytag A408 Washer

I just spent $934 to repair my washer -- new transmission, brake, bearings, belts, etc. (and a new tub while we were at it)! After the repair, I hadn't stood by and watched every load from beginning to end, but about a dozen wash loads later, I happened to notice that the brake was only holding intermittently -- sometimes after the wash cycle and not the rinse cycle, and then vice-versa, so I stopped using it for fear of damaging something. Three months have gone by and I still haven't been able to get the "authorized Maytag repairman" to answer my calls and I’m beginning to think he knowingly did something wrong that he doesn't want to own up to. (At this point I’ll hold off commenting on a couple of things he did during the repair that didn’t seem ‘right’ to me.)

I invested in three 'official' Maytag manuals, so I understand how the helical drive works, but none answer the question. “If the brake isn’t holding, does it mean it’s shot or (hopefully) could something else cause it not to engage?”

BTW, even though this washer is nearing 30 years old, it has been un-abused and well loved and maintained, and looking at its 'innards', it could pass for being only a year old! I love this washer (and absolutely hate the new ones!) which is why I was willing to invest this much in the repair. My problem is that being in a rural area with virtually no access to ‘willing’ repairmen, I have to try to diagnose any appliance problem before anyone will come out.

I would be SOOOO appreciative of any help anyone may be able to offer. Thanks, Pat

Posted by on

  • XNTrick Feb 16, 2008

    If there's a 'non-smoker' out there who would be kind enough to offer a serious comment on my washer problem, I'd be happy to hear it.



    But, if your only view of the 'inside' of a washer is the tub and you don't know the difference between the mechanics of an automobile, a computer and a washer and think fixing it is as easy as 'shimming' a wobbly table leg, save it!



    Thanks,

    Pat

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  • 3,587 Answers

Ahh..so you need a 'brake' job? What you are experiencing, is not malfeasance by your repair dude. Instead, you may be living with a 'tolerance' buildup, whereby with new parts, and an older chassis, there is too much 'give' between the mechanical components(happens in some older cars, too, as my work on a 76 Jaguar XJS will attest). So, it's possible, that the slippage is actually a dimensional issue. So, how to adjust?

You know about shims, I'm sure. It's completely possible that you will need to shim some of the parts, which have most likely re-adjusted themselves to fill the tolerance gap(not unlike some political opponents should, eh?).

At this point, to revere some mechanicals like your well proven product, should entitle you to a free lifetime of service. You ought to tell your story to the Maytag HQ, methinks.

Posted on Feb 14, 2008

  • Patrick Michaels
    Patrick Michaels Feb 16, 2008

    That's really funny. I've been working on computers, washing machines, and printers, for a long enough time to see how they've converged. Good luck with your problem.

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Can't find where the clutch goes on a Maytag Performa PAV 3300, is it in the transmission?


This washer is a single belt driven model that uses a thrust washer system to release the brake when the motor reverses. In wash mode a 200# spring locks the tub place while the transmission agitates the clothes. The pump cannot remove the water in this direction. In spin mode the the brake is released and the water gets pumped out. Here is a great pictorial that shows how to replace the kit along with a Maytag single belt washer service manual.

Oct 08, 2011 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

Just go to these fields and select the following:

Brand: Maytag
Appliance Type: Washing Machine
Part Type: Tool

The list of all Maytag tools will appear.

NOTE: To save a few extra dollars, you can remove the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replace them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts are removed, back out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the brake and the brake stator housing, use the 2" long machine screws again to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, replace the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts.

I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.


on Feb 09, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag MAV 7000 stopped in rinse cycle with water in tub. When turned on, there is a low buz sound. Was making a louder noise prior to stopping.


RepairClinic.com

The top of the washer lifts up like a car hood after two clips between the top and the front panel are pushed with a putty knife. Once the top is flipped open, the screws that hold the front panel in place at the top can be removed and the panel lifted off. The belt may be bad or something may be stopping the belt like a bad pump. Or the transmission drive pulley and bearing may be going bad. If the bearings above the transmission drive pulley fail the brake will not release correctly in the spin cycle causing weak, slow or no spin. The belt & pulley system can be accessed by tipping the washer back. The belt is routed around all three pulleys under the washer and is fairly loose until the motor starts. It is the torque of the motor that gives the belt tension. Leaking or loud "jet engine" sound in spin indicates a bad main tub seal at the outer tub which has caused the spin bearing to fail. This is a complicated repair as the inner and outer tubs need to be removed from the washer to access and replace the seal and bearing components.

Go here for: Maytag-Washing-Machine-Parts

May 05, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV7000

1 Answer

PAVT920AWW Noise in wash cycle no agitation


Your Belt still needs replacing or to be scuffed up with sand paper. If thes fails you need either new tub bearings or a transmission. either a 250-300.00 repair so tr the belt and rotate drain pump rotation while the belt is off

Mar 29, 2009 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My maytag washer won't turn or spin..


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jan 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag se1000 washer


sounds like the brake is not engaging properly(locks the tub for agitiation) wouldn't say transmission just yet, don't know the age but probably a few hundred dollar repair, i would recommend a maytag guy to do the repair, requires special brake tools and such,

Mar 06, 2008 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag washer repair


I had the repair guys out 3 months ago maytag paid for labor I paid $150 for seal and bearings, tub froze and belt broke. the tub now is making the loud screams that others complain about I contacted maytag and reapir servce and talked with the tech. this machine is a piece of S$%^ the seal fails on a regular basis and bearings get water in them. I just missed my 3 month waranty and will not pay for that repair again. people at home depot agree that this machine is trouble. the machine must be taken completely down from the top to replace the bearings and or the belt. the tub must be removed. If you call maytag they will pay for the labor but not the parts.

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5 Answers

My wash spins SO loudly


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