Philips 43p8341/37 ptv 914 chassis led code blinks twice i have found two different explanations one is from the manual which says vertical protection, the other (from forum posts) says high beam current protection active. which is correct and where do i start my troubleshooting with no picture the set will not stay on. so i cannot enter any of the service modes.leaving it unplugged does not help.
Let's check and see if we can find the correct board with the problem. A good place to start is to disconnect the jumper jack 1516 [TV unplugged first]. Now plug in the TV, and power the TV on. If the tubes light up and shut down...then the small signal module is at fault. {this contains convergence ICs} Or it could possibly be the ssb [small signal board] is bad. Leave the set unplugged for a few days and plug in and power up this TV..It may work for a few seconds and go down again. These are two good places to start before you pull the boards out...and they are not easy!
OK...looking through the rear with the cover off. In the center straight north, between boards you will see three jumper jackets. The furthest one north is what you are looking for. One side will say 1516 and the other side will say 1017. This is the jumper cable you want to disconnect...one side is all you need!
Look to see if the resistors are faded, due to high heat stress. This is a good way to help locate a stressed resistor. They should look pretty good and test within the 6.8 value..allowing the 5% tolemrence. They can test at 7 or 8 ohms and still be fine. Also check for an open one. The convergence ICs could still be bad..but before you pull them out lets look around for other possibilities.You believe you may have a vertical problem in your earlier statement. So lets find out. The board to the right will have the vertical IC. Let me tell you first, I have not received this model with a vertical problem. But we will check this out. This Ic is located on the large board to your right. Location is 7550 To the left of the big transformer on a large heatsink. Measure between pins 3 and 4.A zero is a sign of a bad IC. Search further by leaving one probe on pin one and search against pin 2 to 9, and then pin 2 against 1 to 9,then pin 3 against 1 to nine etc.
Yes...very true, they may check out at half value!
That may be a problem...this is voltage return to the flyback...tell you what, I have this board on a bench and I will measure pins 1 and 8. While you're at it can you check these caps? Location 3505 a 50volt 100MF, caps 2826 and 2827 16volt 1000MF. Cap 2452 near reg. 7552, 50volt2.2MF and caps 2912,2913, 2918 and 2837. These should be checked with a ESR meter. It may be a day or two till we visit.
I bet those caps will checkout good, OK! Concerning the vertical IC,pins 1 and 8 are tied into a jumper. So, I also believe the vertical IC is GOOD! I have a couple more options to discuss about. Is the board still in the TV? Remember, I have not encountered a vertical problem with this model. We will move to the next couple ideas soon!
Are any of those capacitors showing bulges or skinned off the tops?
Sorry, I've also been to busy to visit. I have a few minutes. Let me ask you...did you also replace the 6.8 1 watt resistors? Locations are 3069,3070,3071,3072.3073,3074, and 3075. And 3076,3077,3078,3079, and 3080, also 6.8 ohms at 1 watt. And did you get good clean grounds on the convegence ICs?
Once again, lets disconnect the jumper jack 1516 [Tv unplugged] plug in the TV and powerup. Your TV should come on. If the picture is warped, you still have a convergence problem. If there is no picture and you do hear the TV click on and in a few seconds you here a click off...we have a deflection problem! These projection TVs [all brands] almost always have a second problem. We still have a chance to repair this. Let me know how this goes first!
Can you hear the relay click on and a few seconds click off. With the jumper jack disconnected?
Well to be honest with you, you may feel enough time has been to spent to repair this TV. I could give you some more tech tips, but in this case the surest way and the easiest way is to replace the deflection board! To pull this board out and repair and to reinstall it is a chore and we may have to pull the board out again. It is in our best interest now to replace this with a refurbished board. I would certainly call Union Electronics at 1 800 648 6657 ext 4947. Have your TV model number and chassis number with you and ask for the deflection board. You will receive a core exchange...maybe 50 or 75 bucks. Beleive me, when a repair for this board is due it is extremely complicated and very time consuming. Most projection TVs will have one problem followed by two. Way the cost and your time and see what you come up with. Will be listening for your comments!
PS I'm certain the small signal board, located on the left side on top of the convergence board is good! I only had one go bad and this is rare in my case. A bad board in this will make the TV come on full power like nothing is wrong for a few minutes and go down. This has not been the case. So with that said..this is not a problem!
Have the technician swap the small signal board from a unit that is working. And do visa versa, your board in his TV. I tried this on one ocaasion and it was not the signal board. But A guy won't know for sure till you try and I think it is wise to try. A small signal board is about 175 bucks..that is why you want to test it! I will be waiting to hear from you. Very interested in what you may find.
Oh, yes the deflection board is on the right. It has a large transformer that has sparkplug wires coming from it. I thought I would use the term sparkplug wires as you will see the correlation to your auto. But this board may have a problem as we earlier discussed! It is with great caution to remove this board as not to break anything. That is why I suggested in replacing this board with a remanufactured one. It is also difficult to reconnect and only find you still have a problem. Thanks for asking, and I will be waiting to hear from you!
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i have already replaced the convergence ics for the convergence issues the tv worked for about a week (colors realigned) but would shut down when trying to switch between sources. it has been unplugged for a week but still has the same issues (shutting off within two seconds of pushing the power button.
i looked for jumper 1516 but all jumpers are numbered in the 9*** range there is reference to a four pin connector on the filter board with a 1516 number. is there any more info you can give me to help find the correct jumper?
i looked for jumper 1516 but all jumpers are numbered in the 9*** range there is reference to a four pin connector on the filter board with a 1516 number. is there any more info you can give me to help find the correct jumper?
i looked for jumper 1516 but all jumpers are numbered in the 9*** range there is reference to a four pin connector on the filter board with a 1516 number. is there any more info you can give me to help find the correct jumper?
sorry about the repeated posts. I disconnected the cable. there is no change the power button lights up. i hear the tubes charge up the it shuts down and the power button blinks twice (breaks then repeats two blinks...). i have tested a few of the resistors and found that they are returning a different reading than the color codes read. The resistors near the convergence ic's readings are consistent among the same value resistor. I am testing them with the tv unplugged and the boards still installed. Is the reading affected by the board the electronics experience i have had tels me no but i have never worked with dual sided boards before.
excuse my resistor comment earlier it has been a few years since i took electronics and after reviewing some basics i realized that the resistors are in parrallel and therefore the total resistance is less than the smallest resistor.
i have a reading of 0.1 ohms across pin 1 and 8 numbering from left to right. all other readings are higher.
i am working with a fluke multimeter.the tv manual and a soldering iron is about all i have. The boards are still in the tv. the verticle problem is based off of the led flash codes i get when i try to turn it on. i looked it up in the manual and it said it was a verticle protection issue.
Sorry have been busy for a while hope you are still checking this. None of the capacitors or any of the components look damaged. After I replaced the convergence ICs the tv was working for awhile but would still shut off if I tried to change the source channel.
i have not replaced any resistors yet. i replaced only the convergence chips just a direct desolder resolder job the points are all clean and no bad connections as i can see, one of my best solder jobs.
i disconnected jumper 1516 the tv turned on when i tried to change the channel it shut off. and the led blinks twice i teird to turn it on again it shut back off immediately led blinks twice. i almost wonder if it isnt a capacitor that has discharged after sitting unplugged for so long and once it gets recharged causes an issue.
yes i hear it click on and sounds like it is going to come on (kind of powering up) then it just shuts off with a click.
i had a tv repairman out for my lcd tv under warranty and he was willing to take a look at the projection tv he didnt do any trouble shooting but was certain it was the small signal board. i was almost ready to replace it. He said that is a common problem in projection tvs.
I will price both parts and see what costs i am looking at. time is not an issue as of yet this is a hobby for me. but cost will definately be a deciding factor.where is the deflection board located?
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