Lg lrfd23850 water is getting into the freezer

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/answers-for-lg-duct-assm-connector-5209ja1044a-ap4440210-question-144698.html

To me This is on all Makes and models build up of frost means warmer humid air is entering into colder air this will cause a frost build up from entrance of warm air coming in so your looking at your air flow in all compartments of your ref,freezer so on.
blocked air will give false readings to sensors when compartment is asking for lower temp colder temp will be noticed.
bad or obstructed door seals door not closing properly
Follow your frost line it will point the way.

The air ducts are probably not blocked. When ice accumulates on the evaporator coil, the fan cannot blow air across it and distribute that air to the refrigerator and freezer sections. This would be caused by a failure in the defrost system.

check in the ducting in between the freezer and fridge compartment for obstructions such as an ice ball or collapsed lining

LG LFX23961ST Support Manuals Warranty More LG

I just used the link above to get the Manuals on your LG. On page 31, they did the following CYA statements...

The defrost timer will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also click when cycling on and off. Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line, or items stored on top of the refrigerator .
Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, and
you may hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound.
You may hear the evaporator fan motor circulating the air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your refrigerator.
Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause a popping noise.
Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle may cause a sizzling sound.
You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan.
You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle.

I bolded the statement. Sounds like you are going to have to get used to the sound.

Semper Fi,
Z

The fan that blows cold air into the refrigerator compartment is probably frozen. The fan is located in the duct area at the back of the refrigerator or frerzer. You will probably have to remove all the shelves and the back inside panel to get to it.

does your fan blow? freezers have a fan that pushes cold air to the fridge side if fan is bad freezer will run extremely cold and fridge won't cool down and since frige won't cool down thermostat in fridge doesn't tell compressor to stop

Either the damper that the air flows up through is closed or the return air flow vents are blocked with clear ice.

Do you feel the air come out all the way at the top of the duct assembly when the freezer door is opened (but it then stops when the door is closed)?

If so, then it sounds like your return air flow vents are clogged. These are located to the left and right of the duct assembly in the rear/bottom of the refrigerator section. Sometimes you may have to slowly pour hot water into these vents to get the clear ice to thaw. The water should go down into the freezer section behind the evaporator and then out the drain in the back.

If you do not get the air to flow out the top of the duct assembly then the damper is staying shut. This could be either a bad damper in the duct assembly or the main board my not be sending voltage to the damper. Hope this helps.

well if you hat the freezer on top normaly air leaks inside freezer through the drain tube, that air turns into condensation and creates a ice and cloges your drain. now water can drain down to pan everytime ref goes into defrost , and water leaks to bottom section to air ducts and air returns. there are several ways to solve this problem the cheapeste way is to unplug refrigerator for 2 days then plug back up and it should go back to normal another way is to install a heat probe on your drain attached to your defrost heater , and add a grommet on drain tube that will let water drain but it will keep air out and that will solve your problem.