16v is a new upgraded alternator, upgraded possibly even 2 batteries and more than likely having atleast an 8v signal coming from the rcas. this would be possible with the 4k they approximated its max to be 8k watts even though thats unrealistic its "possible" im sure you could upgrade this stuff and get it close only thing you have to remember is they amps rms. you should only run it at its rms wattage output if you dont your asking for the amp to break and be sent to a person.... well like me who repairs broken amps. and trust me i dont work for cheap.
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a fuse is there to protect the circuit and the genset
check why the de-icer is pulling so many amps as the problem may be in that unit
a 10 amp outlet has a maximum current capacity of 10 amps as that is the current allowable from the gen set and wire capacity
even if you had an outlet with 15 amp rating , it would still be blowing fuses as the 16 amps is above the allowable current draw
you would need a 20 amp outlet ( difficult to get unless it is in a house power board and are normally reserved for hot water systems , stoves and other high current usage units and are normally then not outlets but hard wired in to a circuit breaker
This would be a case history. Probably too difficult for a mechanic to have troubleshoot.
Symptom- A fusible link kept blowing out. (It looked like a big fuse rated at 200 amp if I remember right.
Cause - At the back of the vehicle by the passenger side, there is a factory amp that powers the vehicles sound system that had caused the short.
Solution - Unplug the factory amp, causing the short. Open it up and replace the large diode with a good one. (I used one I pulled out of a junk circuit board.)
Note* The vehicle was taken to several different shop but could not find the problem. This was definitely a job for an auto mechanic who understand electronics. I saved the customer lots of money because he did not have to buy a factory amp, and pay a dealership 90 bucks an hour while troubleshooting the vehicle. which would have easily ran him a thousand bucks or more. Since the problem was evaluated accurately, there were no wasted money buying unnecessary parts.
He is correct. I'll not go into the particulars but the fact is, you have two separate circuits connected to the same breaker. Separate the two circuits by installing another 15-Amp breaker. Although I understand your situation, please understand wire gauge and electrical amperage are two different animals. Breakers are rated in Amperage and electrical conductors are sized by wire gauge. That said, the 20 gauge wire you speak of is actually a 12 gauge conductor and the 15 gauge wire as you say is a 14 gauge conductor. Have a good day.
Hi - I'm an electrician and can help you with your question.
A BR2100 circuit breaker is a 2 Pole 100 Amp (for the part number "BR2100", the "2" indicates the number of poles and the "100" indicates the amperage) circuit breaker. It can be installed in a single phase or three phase 120/240 VAC system panel that specifically lists the BR series breakers as acceptable for use.
A BR260 A BR2100 circuit breaker is a 2 Pole 60 Amp (the part number BR260, the "2" indicates the number of poles and the "60" indicates the amperage) circuit breaker. It can be installed in a single phase or three phase 120/240 VAC system panel that specifically lists the BR series breakers as acceptable for use.
It is not possible to have a BR2100 rated for 60 amps, 1 or 3 poles, or a BR260 rated for 100 amps, 1 or 3 poles.
It is not permissible to install any circuit breaker brand or type in any panel that does not specifically include it on a list of acceptable circuit breakers.
Circuit breakers are designed to carry 80% of the amperage rating. To determine the load a circuit breakercan carry, multiply the circuit breaker amp rating by 80%. This means that if you need to supply more than 80 amps, you cannot use a 100 amp circuit breaker. A higher rating is required. A BR2110 would be acceptable for loads greater than 80 amps, but less than 88 amps because the formula above says: 110 amp x 80% = 88 amps.
To determine the breaker size, determine the load (by measuring with a meter or obtaining amp rating of the load from the data plate) and multiply it by 125%. Using the same numbers in the example above; assume an 88 amp load. 88 amps x 125% = 110 amp circuit breaker. The 60 amp breaker is acceptable for up to 48 amps because 60amps x 80% = 48 amps. A 48 amp load needs a 60 amp breaker because 48 amps x 125% = 60 amps.
disconnect the speaker wires from the amp, and check for power. there is no resetting, other than simply turning the amp off and back on. if it powers up fine without the speaker/sub(s) connected, check your wiring and check the ohms with a meter. if you do not find a problem there(should read within 1ohm of how you wired it) then check for dc voltage coming out of the speaker terminals on the amp. should also check that the amp is getting good power and ground. if wiring and speaker(s) check out okay, then the amp is damaged. if you get dc voltage from the speaker terminals, the output transistors are shorted out and it needs to be repaired by a tech.
Yes you can and when you replace the fuse and it blows again then you have a fault that is causing to blow. The fuse has an amp rating and this is marked on the end cap, replace the fuse with the same amp rating.
relays are normally in the fuse panel on the left side of dash by knee.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
Location and Values NOTE: The headlamp switch (11654) has an integral 20-amp circuit breaker.
The combination instrument panel fuse and circuit breaker panel contains most of the fuses and circuit breakers used in the system.
The fuses and circuit breakers are color-coded by amp rating.
The locations and values of the fuses and circuit breakers not contained in the panels are shown in the following chart.
Circuit Protection and Rating
Headlamps and High Beam Indicator
20 Amp. CB
Integral with Lighting Switch
Heated Back Window
16 GA Fuse Link
Power Windows, Power Seat, Power Door Locks
20 Amp. CB
Starter Motor Relay
Engine Compartment Lamp
25 Amp. CB
Lower Instrument Panel-Reinforcement
I have 2 of these 12" running in a Large slot ported box with an:
"Ultra Linear UL2402"
600RMS X 2 @ 4Ohm (Stereo)
1200RMS X 2 @ 2Ohm (Stereo)
2400RMS X 1 @ 2Ohm (Mono)
Can be run in Tri-mode with 3 8Ohm subs, which these subs are. I have not tried this mode. This is
600RMS X 2 @ 4Ohm = Max RMS of your subs.
You should run the max of your subs, less wear on the amp you are using , and i doubt you will ever need to turn it up far before it blows out your trunk or window :P
1200RMS X 2 @ 2Ohm = Blown Subs!
Has 4 x 25amp fuses, most will tell you this only has an RMS of around 845, an "ultra linear circuit" produces twice the output power over Modern amps.
Can had on Ebay for around $100.
I bought mine for $101.
This Amp pounds, i could quickly tell a difference going from 300RMS X 2 @ 4Ohm with a Kenwood amp. I Had to turn all my settings down on the new amp to have a better balance in sound.