Hi im having problems with my amp it worked fine in my old car but now ive put it in my new car theres no power going to the amp ive checked it with a volt meter ive got 12.43 volts going to the amp but it still wont work its just gone 12months old and the the warranty has just ran out typical any help will greatfully be received
Aint got no power gowing to amp changed amps still no power connect my power cap up to the power lead and earth and there is power gowing to that why so there is power gowing through the
leeds just none gowing to the amp why is that eny one can help me?????
Hmm...ive had this problem before and its always been either the remote wire, the rca cables or the ground. i would try hooking up the remote wire strait to the battery, if that doesnt work try to find a better place for the ground. maybe where your trunk latches. if that still doesnt work then i would try new rca cables.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The settings you have will not break anything and may sound OK.
But they may not be optimum for getting the best bass from your system. The SubSonic setting filters out frequencies below the threshold of hearing allowing the amp to put more power into the frequencies that can be heard. So, it should be set to about the same frequency that your enclosure is tuned for or just a little lower. If your enclosure is tuned for 35Hz, then the subsonic should be close to maximum.
Similarily, the low pass sends all frequencies below the setting to the subs, (other than those blocked by the subsonic filter) and is commonly referred to as the "crossover" frequency. Typical crossover frequencies for subwoofers are 60Hz, 80Hz and 100Hz. For a ported enclosure, lower is probably better.
The phase shift should be set to the position that best synchronizes the bass with the music. Because of the additional wiring required for the subs, the signal to them is sometimes slightly delayed causing the bass to be "out-of-sync" with the rest of the music. The thump of the bass comes just a little sooner or later than expected. If the bass sounds out of phase, turn the phase shift on, otherwise leave it off.
The "gain" or level control allows you to match the amps input to your head units subwoofer output. The best setting is usually as high as possible without distortion. Set it by turning up the head unit volume to about 3/4 maximum and then advance the amp gain until your subs just begin to distort. Then back it off slightly.
These settings should allow your amp to put the most power into the frequencies that your subwoofers are designed for and hence produce the loudest and lowest bass.
You may need a new power supply inside amp. If you where running speakers with to many watts it will burn up the power supply. Try unplugging all wires. Replug them in also check fuse underhood and inside amp
9 times out of 10 if your amplifire is in protect mode and evrything externaly, like speakers, fuse, voltage, etc. checks out fine then
either you have shorted out output transistors or power mosfet transistors. Basicly that just about what happens with car amps.
It's easy enough to fix IF, IF you know what your doing. First you
need to check the output transistors with a digital volt meter on diode check, If they check out then check your power supply mosfet transistors. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Very common. I buy non working amps all the time and repair them. Listen to pbabin also he has helped me out. Good luck
A couple of things you can try: 1. check for B+12 on the 1st and 2nd terminals of the Power Connector using a voltmeter; 2. temporarily put a jumper on the 1st & 2nd terminal of the Power Connector; 3. the usual, check for loose connection, fuses, wires, connectors.
if there is +12 on both terminal and amp is still dead, then it is internal; if there is +12 on terminal 2 but none on 1, then it is the wiring from the head unit or the trigger of the head unit that is the issue;
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Do you have the switch or activate wire on the new amp. to the right hookup? If you do, then theres a problem with the amp and if your not a tech these can be a difficult thing to trouble shoot. Take back the amp or seek out a pro to test it on a bench. Good Luck