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Re: oven door came off
Open the door on the hook that's still engaged look in the slot you will see a hinge lock using a small screw driver flip it back to lock the hinge then let the door up til the door engages the hinge lock grasp the door on either side and lift up and back to take the door off then pull the other hinge out till you can lock it then grasp both sides put the hinge hooks on the pins in the slot open the door all the way and fold the locks back in the body of the range and close the door
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Brand and model would help but I'll guess at this. If micro is a wall hung unit over the range, you usually need to remove the top grill assembly above the door. Then look inside directly above the area where the bulb is located. You should see a metal cover with usually 1 screw in it to remove. Once screw is out that metal plate usually pulls forward and upward to reveal the bulb and socket. Replace bulb and reverse procedure to assemble.
If the micro is a counter top model---the complete outer case usually needs removed if you don't see a small access door by the bulb. Remove all screws around back edge and any screws in the side panels---then lift back edge and pull outer case rearward to remove.
I have included a schematic of the interior of the built in Monogram Advantium Microwave oven Model KSC1001. The interior halogen light burned out and had to be replaced. GE service wanted $138 to come out & service it. I tried to find instructions on how to take it apart and remove the bulb & replace it on the WEB but had no luck with the Monogram series so I went to the dealer in Denver, CO and talked with their technicians and they gave me the schematic and sold me 2 bulbs for $11.00. The halogen bulbs can be purchased at Home Depot for about the same price. They are 35 watt with wide metal connectors.
Mine has 2 side trim pieces so these have to be removed first. They have latches on the top that slide behind the sides of the microwave and attach at the top. After removing the 4 screws holding the trim pieces, slide these upwards and then pull out to the sides. 2.) pull the microwave out and set it on a solid surface. 3.) there are approximately 23 screws that need to come out before you can slide & life the cover off the microwave 4.) Then look inside towards the front and left side (looking from the rear forward) for a small metal cover. There are 2 screws that hold it down. 5). Unscrew the 2 screws and gently lift the metal container up. This is the housing for the light bulb. 6.) gently pull the old bulb out and using gloves or a cloth insert the new bulb.You need to keep oils from your fingers from getting on the bulbs. The oils make the bulbs burn out quicker 7.) Put the container back and screw in the 2 screws being careful not to dislodge any wiring 8.) Slide the cover back on and replace all the screws 9.) plug it into an outlet and open the door to make sure the light works 10.) replace the microwave, plug it in and put the trim pieces back on. 11.) go to a movie with the money you just saved
Remove two phillips screws from each side of the microwave. One at the very top and one at the very bottom. Remove the front cover. There will be a couple of other screws and metal stops under the microwave that will need to be removed also. After that, the back of the microwave will need to lifted and move forward just a bit to release the back. Pull the microwave forward and toward the left side, enough to be able to reach behind the right side of the oven and unplug the microwave. Remove the microwave. To reinstall, just reverse these steps. It might help to use a mirror and check out the 110v 60Hz socket in the top right corner of the oven that you will need to plug the microwave back into when you replace it.
The process is likely model specific. Your owner's manual might describe how to do it.
I have a Frigidaire/Electrolux (PLEB30S8CCB) and I find removal and replacement some what tricky. The owner's manual says to reverse the removal process, but I believe that that is incomplete.
To take it off, you open the door all of the way, flip up a metal connecting loop on each of the door sides to "bind" an upper J-shaped and lower L-shaped bar on each hinge, and pull the door out, while lifting up the outer handle side. (The pull motion frees the lower L-bar and the upward motion allows the J-bar to slip under a metal roller.)
To put it back on, each side of the oven has a two-part slot. The upper part is for the J-bar and the lower for the L-bar. Put the J-bars part way into their upper slots with the handle side of the door raised slightly to help slip under the metal rollers. Then ensure that the L-bars are fitting into their lower slots. Push the door straight in until a notch on the bottom of the L-bars sets on the bottom of their slots. The trick then is to push the door down to its fully open position, which allows you to flip the metal loops to separate the bars and allow the door to close. Note that pushing the door down makes some noise, but the door should go no more that level with the floor or something may be out of position.
If you look under the bottom door you will see a 3/4" tall slot the entire length of the door. This is where the cooling air blows out. In the middle of this slot is the air switch enclosed in a 5" long metal housing. You can see a thin metal paddle sticking out of each side of the housing. These paddles are spring loaded to angle slightly back. When the fan is on, the airflow will push the paddles forward. If they do not move forward, then you will get the error code. The simplest solution is to vacuum out all of the normally collecting dust that keeps the paddles from moving. To better access and clean the area, the black trim piece that forms the slot can be removed by unscrewing the two retaining screws. That can be more easily accomplished by first removing the lower door. This is very simple. With the door fully open, rotate the small metal clip on each hinge so it hooks over the protrusion on the other part of the hinge. Then lift up on the door (close it part way) and slide (pull) the door and hinges out of the hinge slots. There is no need to remove the entire unit from the wall.
Unscrew the screws on the inside of the door. You will need a special
star looking screw driver head. Unscrew all the screws have a towel or someone
to hold the door face so it doesn't get scratch when it comes apart
from the stainless side since that is what is attached to the
dishwasher. Then look near the top front kind of where the latch would
be. There is a black thing it looks sort of U shaped and you'll need to
pull that forward. It was a little hard to pull it but u will be able to do
just with finger tip. By pulling that forward actually will make that
black thing in that female thing on the stainless side move back into
the right position. You'll probably need help putting the face back on
since the stainless part wants to close. Just use your foot to prop
the far side as you aligned the side closest to you and then put the
screws back in.
Adjusting the oven door is best left for a factory trained tech. There is alot involved with getting the hinges and monitor switches working together in harmony. alot of times the bottom grate on the front of the oven rubs on the door and usually gives you the metal on metal sound. the bottom grate just pulls off. Then see if its still rubbing. Be sure that the oven door has all of the screws and they are tight before calling for service. There are 3 screws on the left side and on the right side without them you will have problems.
WARNING: Procedure should be done while
oven is hot. As a result, exercise extreme
caution when adjusting the door.
In first, excuse my poor english if i make some mistake.
I hare repair the same problem. part broken in left side and the door fall.
You have to pull out the oven from the wall, use some objet to support the oven,small table or plastic box if you dont want to put down completely.
You have to unsecure the electric wire connection in back if you whant to pull out enough for remove the left cover. You have to remove some parts in front for acces to screws on the side cabinet.
In my case the hinge was broken, i have soldered and fix again.
If hard to replace the spring in the mecanism, you better to do this on the bench before put all in the side of the oven.
I think the maytag oven have the same problem.
Other problem also is the timer alarm sound in the night went you sleeping, prob whit switch sensitif pc board. Now i turn off the breaker in the back of oven all night, and i sleep good.
Push the hinges out till they click once. At this point, get your nails or screws ready. Use a screw driver and wedge the hinges further apart. When you see the hole in the hinge appear, put the nail in it to hold it open. With both done, drop door in place; open door slightly, and remove nails.