Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore 100.27731600 Washing machine Blows circuit breaker

Completely dead now. Even with the timer switch off, when I turn on the breaker, t will blow within 5 seconds. I thought it was a shorted motor, I replaced it - Same thing.

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  • VideoDan Feb 12, 2008

    Breaker is good, unplugged the washer, and plugged in a tester.
    outlet/breaker is good.

  • VideoDan Feb 12, 2008

    119.5 VAC

  • VideoDan Feb 12, 2008

    119.5 & .1 VAC
    Theres nothing wrong with my electricity.
    I tapped hard on the timer switch and rotated it rapidly several rotations. The motor now works, and no blown breaker, although the timer switch doesn't advance on it's own. There's a short somewhere within the timer switch. I'll replace it tomorrow.

    Thanks for your help....
    Dan

  • VideoDan Feb 12, 2008

    Ok, how do I get the knob off of the timer switch? (I feel really stupid now)

  • VideoDan Feb 12, 2008

    I got it.
    The timer switch is SMOKED!!!!!
    I tore it apart and several contacts are fused together.
    SMOKED!!!!

  • VideoDan Feb 12, 2008

    It's -4 here in Michigan. Haven't had a thunderstorm in months

  • VideoDan Feb 12, 2008

    I suspect 2 things. The motor was going (shorted winding) and caused an excessive draw in the switch, which caused contacts to fuse together......

  • Anonymous Aug 15, 2008

    Machine seems to get stuck on certain cycles. You can maually turn the knob and it is ok

  • robert samples May 11, 2010

    have you checked the out let for a short try unplugging the washer and turning on the breaker if it doesnt blow inspect the washer cord if it does the out let could be shorted

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  • Master
  • 1,314 Answers

Let me know could be the breaker its self with the timer off should be no power going to the washer

Posted on Feb 12, 2008

  • 6 more comments 
  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    what was the voltage at the out let

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    ok thats good go from line to the ground the round hole in the outlet see what the voltage is then go from netural to ground see what it is do you know how to do a voltage drop test

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    well thats where we were going next after a voltage drop test then to the capicator but glad you found it

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    push the knob in hold the big dial screw it counterclock wise

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    the other type of timer you push the knob in then on the back of the timer there is a black tab you pry out with a small screw driver then pull the knob off

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    its hard to know which model you have from kenmores model numbers but its built by whirlpool

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    first time ive ever heard of that had any bad storms lately could be a lighting strike

  • robert samples Feb 12, 2008

    -2 lol im in chattanooga tenn its 55 right now dont really matter i suppose its bad anyway

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My Kenmore Elite Oasis will not power up and I can not even get a error code. Circuit breaker is good what do I do? I am stuck on this right now!


r u sure circuit breaker is good? did u check the washer terminal black or timer for voltage??
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

WASHER WILL NOT START:

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.

Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.




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