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Re: MH6150XHQ-1 Blows Circuit Breaker Randomly
The problem is from the high-voltage transformer being overloaded by
something shorting it out. Either the magnatron or the
high-voltage capacitor and diode. Replace the capacitor and
diode then if still having problems, replace the magnatron. Its
only affordable if you do it yourself - buy the part on EBAY - lookup
Hope ya fix it!
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If there's no other appliance on that circuit, then please stop trying to use the microwave. You could be dealing with a dead short, and those sometimes leave people,,,DEAD!
I would be really cautious about trying to use it anymore without checking it first for a direct short.
You need to allow the circuit breaker more time to reset, flip to off and give it 2 minutes, then turn it back on. You should feel the distinctive click, as well as hear it if it's working properly.
Circuit breakers can go bad after repeated failures within a circuit.
The outlet could also be damaged now, but normally it's the circuit breaker getting too hot with repeated failures.
If there are a number of other items on the same circuit, then try the microwave in a plug that you know has no other items being used at the same time, preferably while wearing heavy duty leather insulating gloves to protect yourself from any possible shock. If the circuit breaker blows, you've got a possible electrical short within the microwave. Good luck!
Microwaves that are either built in, a part of the oven, or over the range are on a dedicated circuit by law. This means nothing else could have tripped that breaker but the microwave.
If it has a problem severe enough to trip a 20 amp breaker several times, it is only getting worse each time you reset the breaker and turn it on.
There is a possible chance of fire. I recommend you turn the circuit breaker off and replace the microwave. Is it a plug in, or over the range type?
I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions
Normally when the circuit breaker blows, it a bad door switch or door switch mount.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Please write back with more details if you need further help.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Since the internal fuse blew, the problem has to be either a surge from the power source, or an intermittent or transient short at some point beyond the fuse.
With the unit unplugged, I would first look at the varistor (surge absorber) on the control circuit board to see if it might have taken a transient. It may look charred, distorted, etc.
Then I would look at the door interlock switches and mounts to see if the switches are clicking properly and if they are aligned and secure. The purpose of the monitor switch is to blow the fuse (and usually the breaker) if there is aan interlokc problem.
Next would be a look at the condition of the wiring from the fuse holder all the way back to the power cord.
Then just for good measure, I would test the power outlet. A toaster is a good high-current load to use. But I don't think the problem's in the wiring or breaker.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find the wiring diagram, helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Be sure to use a proper ceramic appliance fuse that's meant for the job.