I have had my dryer for about a year and a half which I purchase new. I recently moved and had a new 220 line installed for the dryer however when the electrician moved the unit back towards the wall, he cracked the aluminum vent and the dryer was blowing lint into the air. I was not aware of this right away so I was running the dryer for about a week when I noticed lint on the floor. The last time I used it, I set the timer to dry some bath towels and it started up, but when I went to get them out, they were still damp. The dryer will not turn on at all. No lights, no sound, no movement. I unplugged the unit and re-plugged it as well as checked the breaker and everything seems to be fine. I have not been able to move the unit out to check the back, but do you think the vent could be blocked causing this unit to shut off as a safety feature. Please advise. THANK YOU~
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Re: LG electric stackable dryer
Based on your story, with no lights not even a sound that indicated you have press a button, its more likely that there is no power. check your outlet. there should be a 220 volt on the outer prongs and 110 v on the middle and against either outside prong. you may have a 220 but not the neutral which is 110 which is the voltage of the control. in some homes, even the neutral is attached to a circuit breaker. i hope i was able to help...
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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
Honestly, thats something you would need to contact an electricain about due to permits and law requirements as far as wire soze for what distance, etc. For as long as I've been doing this line of work, going on 12-13 years, the breaker for the dryer has always been located outside near the meter with all the other 220 vac breakers.
Depends ... what is 'normal house voltage' where you live?
If you are installing a new electric dryer in the USA, typically, they operate at 220 Volts. If there is no special outlet at the place where you want to use the dryer, you will have to have an electrician install the proper gage wire and outlet for you. Expect to pay up to $200.00 or more for this installation from the house main panel to the dryer location.
If there is a gas line at the location, you may want to consider exchanging your electric for a gas model.
Verify your voltage at the wall receptacle before assuming you have a dryer problem. You should be reading 220-240VAC across the two HOT (left and right) terminals. If the voltage is not correct, you may have a breaker tripped somewhere. Most homes utilize a single dedicated 220VAC breaker for the dryer circuit. However, some older homes, may use two 120VAC breakers. So, if you are missing half your voltage, you may have a breaker tripped, or a bad receptacle.<br />
If the voltage IS correct, you may not have your power cord installed correctly. Since you mentioned you changed the power cord, you may want to go back and verify how you have it installed. The following link explains how to properly install an appliance cord to your dryer:<br />
<a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord">http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord</a><br />
Make sure you have the wires correctly terminated at the terminal block in the back of the dryer.<br />
If the power cord is installed correctly, and the voltage at the receptacle is correct, UNPLUG the dryer and check the continuity of the power cord. Perform a resistance check from end to end to ensure the cord isn't broken.<br />
NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run with half the input voltage, but won't heat, is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC to run. This voltage is tapped off the source voltage. The heating circuits, however, require the full 220 service to work.<br />
If you have any questions about these procedues, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.
I am going to assume it is an electic dryer and not a gas dryer, and that the cord hasn't been removed or replaced since moving. Since it was working before moving into a new location, I would check the 220 v outlet. If one leg is dead (or very low), the dryer controls could still work but not have enough juice to run the heat. The first thing to do is to go to the breaker box and turn the dryer breaker off. Then turn it back on. I have seen it where breakers only half-blow...just enough to kill the one leg that pulled the high amps...the heater leg. Even if it doesn't look blown, it is a cheap test..and cheaper fix if that works. If not, then I would bet on a problem in the outlet itself. If you are comfortable with a meter, you can check that. A dead or low leg at the outlet can cause the problem you are having.
If the cord was replaced, make sure the cord is attached correctly and the lugs are tight.
Here's one place you can order a new drum. However, if the drum has cracked twice in four months you need to find out if there's something else with the dryer that's making the drum crack. You also need to think if you're doing something like putting shoes in there or something that's stressful on the dryer.
Check the blower fan which is mounted underneath the drum on my DLE2514W front loading LG dryer. I experienced poor drying along with a loud thump at the start of each cycle. At first I thought it was a bad roller but later found that the blower fan had separated from its bracket so it was not turning with each turn of the moter but rather spinning freely.