I had a washer that at the beginning of the spin cycle it was fine, but when the water was half drained it would begin making a banging noise. When the draining reach the bottom and the spin speed increased it was fine. Finally found the problem - What happened was the tabs that hold the control arms for the brake had loosened. During the spin cycle especially in the middle of the cycle (when torque was at the maximum and speed was at medium. The brake spring would flex out due to compression and hit the some extended metal tab on the brake housing. Once the speed increased and the torque reduced the spring no longer hit the housing tabs. Fix the problem by bending the tabs that hold the brake control arms in place to better hold the control arms in the proper location.
SOURCE: kenmore series 80 washer makes loud knocking noise during spin cy
Unless your front loader is set firmly on concrete
and leveled to perfection, the force of a heavy wash load spinning in
excess of 1000rpm will create a bit of vibration and noise.A firm footing is your best defense against to much movement.
Also due to the earlier movements during the spin cycle, the
shocks that are used to dampen the spin cycle might have been broken or
damaged.
If the problem persists inspite of proper levelling, please do check for the shocks or might have them replaced them for good.
SOURCE: Kenmore 80 Series washing machine - loud banging at end of spin
With the lid open, set the cycle to spin and press the lid switch button with a pen. Wait until the drum gets to full speed and release the lid switch. If the drum makes a knocking/ thumping noise and doesn't stop spinning within 2-3 seconds, the basket drive block is worn and needs to be replaced. (The basket drive block is located on the gearcase drive shaft, under the tub and agitator) If this has been happening for a long time you may need to replace the brake and drive tube assembly as well.
Basket drive block part number is 389140
If that's not it, let me know and I will try to help you further.
Good luck!
SOURCE: My Kenmore 80 Series top
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.
It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.
In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.
Here is a description of how to do it.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887
Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.
See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.
We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.
In order to solve that problem, :
Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
Pull the transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)
Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
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