I have a new Infinity 5350a amp that i just installed in my car. I went to trun it on and nothing happened just the protect light was flashing. but then today when i went back out to try and fix the problem i was able to get some sound and when i went to turn it up it went up for a little bit then went back in to protect mode. what would make this do this? I have plenty of power going to my amp and I have everything wired correctly. any ideas??
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You'll also need a remote turn-on source for the amp to operate. Normally, this is a blue or blue/white wire from your head unit, but for test purposes, you just need 12V to the "remote" terminal on the amp. The amp should power up without speaker inputs or speaker connections, but it is not recommended.
Overload maybe. If the amp is run at an improper impedence, the amp will shut down. If you are "CLIPPING" speakers / subwoofers the light will blink to indicate a hard clip . Example: 4ohm/2ohm stable amp with 4 ohm subs wired at 1 ohm.
I have an Infinity amp as well, and I was having the same issue for a time. The amp is protecting itself from some sort of overload. It could be the Ohms load on the sub, but I would guess not. Make sure your low pass filter is set to LP and not HP or Flat. Then check the RMS on your subs and match that to the Amp RMS. Once I did all that I found that everything worked fine, for a time. It started doing this again, and I checked the fuse and it was blown badly. It seems that the fuse setup on some of these Infinity amps is not as good as one would hope, because the charge was bridging the gap and frying out my fuses. It was like a spark would jump from one side of the fuse to the other without travelling the fuse itself, and this was causing my protect issues. I pulled the fuse, got a new one of the same rating, but I placed the fuse in with a little piece of rubber in between the 2 contacts, and then connected to the fuse block. I have not had problems since.
first I would advise you to tighten all of your ground and power connections. Then I would suggest that you expose the circuit board and start the amplifier warm up process, once the amp comes on I would use freeze spray to cool down various components in an attempt to find the component which has become thermally sensitive. Once you find the component I would suggest replacing it and the putting the cover back on the unit.
After reviewing the owners manual I can only guess that your amp is faulty and will need service. There is no reason for the power and protect lights to both be off while the power and remote wires are active. I'm assuming of course that power is still applied and remote is activated. It's difficult to diagnose problems online without voltmeter readings but my bet is on a faulty amp. In this case it will need to be professionally serviced. Before paying for service you could check the voltage at the 12V and Remote terminals, both should be 12volts. A solid ground is obviously required but it sounds like you have wiring covered. Feel free to post any updates and I'll continue to provide options if I can.
You need to check the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals. You also need to check the DC voltage across the remote and ground terminals. If the voltage is less than 11 volts, you need to check the B+ supply and remote wiring for breaks or open fuses. You should also check the ground connection to confirm that it's not loose.
If the voltage is OK, the output transistors are likely shorted.
this problem sound like you have too low of power going to your amp, test your battery and make sure its putting out enough power for at least the mininum amount of power that your amp requires, you can find that information in your manual or sometimes they post it on the amp itself. i hope this info helps