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Snell Type A Replacement mids and tweeters

Need equivalent replacement mids and tweeters. There's got to be somewhere to get the same spec drivers w/o paying $500+ to Snell for a pair of each. Help!

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  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2008

    where can i find replacement tweeters?

  • josephando Jan 22, 2009

    Has anyone found a replacement for the BX5 tweeter?

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4 Suggested Answers

  • 238 Answers

SOURCE: KLH tweeters stopped working

hi, have u first disconnected the tweeters and then checked, as if its on a cross over, the tweeter is in series with a capacitor,if u have a ohms meter or a continuety tester check the tweeter coil if its open,secondly you can have the coil replaced, check if u can get one before buying a new,let me know

Posted on Jan 12, 2008

brainyass
  • 242 Answers

SOURCE: Replacement KEF Coda III TWEETER Type SP1087

Go here and find a nice substitute. Many to choose from and it may be better to purchase a pair of them rather than have mis-matched ones. They should be inexpensive enough for you, as low as $2 up to $480. You just need the size of the mounting hole to find a replacement though.

http://www.parts-express.com/speakers.cfm

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

ColdTattoo
  • 219 Answers

SOURCE: blown tweeters on pair of The Amazing Alphas

All speakers can be repaired. Get a measurement for the tweeters and go to this website:
http://www.simplyspeakers.com/14replacements.htm

simply unscrew the old speaker and pull it out with the wires attached. If they are soldered, get a soldering iron and undo them.

When you get the replacement speaker, turn on the audio to have sound going to those wires - don't worry, just try not to touch them together - and touch the 2 wires to the 2 terminals on the back of the new speaker and rotate them until you get sound. (99% of the time it doesn't matter). Twist/Solder them in place and screw it back it. You're good to go!

Good luck and please give me the most appropriate rating!

Respectfully,

Don

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

AJIN G
  • 6694 Answers

SOURCE: only bass driver working on the pair. tweeter and

hi,
check the tweeter and mid range. its coil may become faulty.
for checking the speakers carefully remove the speakers one by one, remove its connections.
and check the speakers with a AAA cell. is it producing cracking sound. if not the speakers coils are burned.
ok

Posted on Feb 01, 2011

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1 Answer

Can i wire non amplified mid-range/tweeter speaker's on the inside of an altec acs250 sub woofer directly to the woofer speaker


Probably not. Somewhere there is a filter (crossover) that only sends the lower frequencies to the sub-woofer driver. Where that filter resides (either in the pre-amp, receiver or sub-woofer enclosure is yet to be known).

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Sony mhc gt444


http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/content/cnt-specs/MHC-GT444/list

According to this there is no midrange unit! So you don't need to open it. If the sound is coming from the tweeter and bass it's OK.

Aug 20, 2014 | Audio Players & Recorders

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I need to find SOME kind of adequate replacement tweeter or dome or horn for a Yamaha MS150 powered speaker. (used for instruments or PA) The only specs i have are: The back of the magnet reads...


That is a very wide range cone type (oval) type tweeter that probably covers from around 2500 Hz up to 20KHz. You will probably NOT be satisfied with generic speaker... this one is special for sure. Try calling http://www.speakerrepair.com/ocsdiaphragms.html and see if you can get it reconed. Most speakers that are cheap will NOT take the power that the amp will deliver.

Jul 04, 2011 | Yamaha Music

1 Answer

No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

Feb 23, 2011 | M-Audio BX5a Speaker

1 Answer

The tweeter and upper mid-range speaker quit working in one of my JBL s412p speakers. All wires are connected. Would this be a cross-over assembly problem? If so, where can I purchase a replacement?


Remove the speaker wire from your amplifier. Using a 1.5v battery place the wire on both ends of the battery. Observe if you can hear a cracking sound on the tweeter and the mid-range. If there is no sound., your speaker is busted and needs to be rewind or replaced.

Dec 06, 2010 | JBL S412P Main / Stereo Speaker

1 Answer

Speaker replacement


Any 4" mid with the same wattage rating will do

Jun 05, 2010 | Acoustic Research PL900SAT Speaker

1 Answer

I need a tweeter or the specs for a hi freq.


Try this link

http://www.jblpro.com/pages/recording/4400.htm#4412A

Thanks for using FixYa, I hope this helps.

Oct 22, 2009 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

Replacement KEF Coda III TWEETER Type SP1087


Go here and find a nice substitute. Many to choose from and it may be better to purchase a pair of them rather than have mis-matched ones. They should be inexpensive enough for you, as low as $2 up to $480. You just need the size of the mounting hole to find a replacement though.

http://www.parts-express.com/speakers.cfm

Nov 21, 2008 | KEF Audio Model Three Main / Stereo...

1 Answer

No sound from mids and bass


there is prolly just a short in the wire somewhere

Nov 28, 2007 | RCA RS2656 Shelf System

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