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There is either a shorted part in the power supply section or a shorted part (say a transistor if it uses them) in the main amp section. This will be located on the big heat sink. Power supply culprits are transformer, any semiconductor device, such as power regulator, rectifier etc.
Vary low should never make no start conduition.
Sounds like you have a muility meter to ask for voltages .
Try this disconnect the negitive from the battery .Set the meter on the 20 volt DC scale .Go red lead to posivite and black to engine block or any known solid ground .If you read voltage something is shorting
If the voltage 2 -3 volts it could be switches lights ect .If its 5 volts or over then its something that draws a lot of power like a bad motor .
At any rate if you read voltage pos to gr with gr disconnect from bat their is a short .
You can try pulling fuses 1 at a time to see when it stops .This will tell you what circuit the problem is on and sometimes the starting motor will short interinaly this will kill the bat fast
CDI MODULES (IGNITORS)
What is a CDI module? A typical CDI module consists of a small transformer, a charging circuit, a triggering circuit and a main capacitor. First, the system voltage is raised up to 400-600 Volts by a transformer inside the CDI module. Then, the electric current flows to the charging circuit, charging a capacitor. A rectifier inside the charging circuit prevents the capacitor from discharging before the ignition point. When the triggering circuit receives triggering signal, the triggering circuit stops charging the circuit, allowing the capacitor to discharge rapidly to the low inductance ignition coil, which increases the 400-600 V capacitor discharge to up to 40 kV at the secondary winding. This 40 kV then jumps the spark plug gap. When there is no triggering signal, the charging circuit is reconnected and starts charging the capacitor again.
The ballistic performance of the .22 WMR based off 30, 40, 50 grain is 2,200 ft/s (30 gr), 1,910 ft/s (40 gr), 1,650 ft/s (50 gr). - See more at: http://gundata.org/cartridge/173/.22-winchester-magnum-rimfire-%28wmr%29/#sthash.qVd5FziR.dpuf 22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire WMR Ballistics GunData org
Your bike is designed to have a 35/35 watt headlight bulb. Regardless of fitting a slightly higher capacity battery and rectifier, you have probably blown the rectifier, battery and possibly the alternator. HID is too powerful for your poor little bikes electrical system to deal with. I would try to get a halogen 45/40 watt bulb and try that if your electrical system is still OK.
Yes almost certainly if it (the rectifier) has gone short circuit, but you should be able to test the rectifier with a test meter; disconnect mains and rectifier, forward and reverse resistance should be low and very high for each diode leg in each direction of test leads (4 diodes if it has 4 wires)
test each leg both ways, or get testmeter with diode test
Hi our tv set need to be serviced. Here are some tips: 1. Open main fuse. The fuse is clean but interrupted. You can try replacing it with one o the same value. 2. Fuse Blown or blackened. Short in the rectifier bridge or in the switching transistor. Out of the power supply: supply line rectifier (100/150V) shorted.
as your reg. output is 40v & you have checked every possible things responsible for it.
my suggetion is that
first you isolate power supply from hor.section & see if power supply output is ok.
if it is ok then check for short & leakage in h/output like
1 hor.output tr.
2 diode or cap in eht winding.
3 check for print near eht transformer.
4 disconnect yoke connector & check .
5 & finally eht or flyback transformer.