Question about Reddy R155D Utility Heater

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RC150F this unit would only run when unit was warm...changed fuel...cleaned tank..replaced....ignitor plug...fuel filter...now it doesn't seem to want to draw the fuel...ANY IDEAS??

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Http://www.desatech.com/manuals.cgi?oldpro=Construction+Heaters&products=Construction+Heaters&Manual=&Model=RC150F&Type=Show+All&x=75&y=11

Check out this link. There is a detailed owners manual and other info.

Posted on Feb 11, 2008

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1 Answer

Spark plug will not unite


If this is one of those liquid fuel heaters, change the nozzle, the filter, and clean the pump strainer. Bleed the air out of the fuel line by opening the small nipple (in the fuel line on the side of the pump) while attempting to start it until the fuel comes out clear and not sudsy, then close the nipple if the appliance had run out of fuel prior to you attempting to start it There's no spark plug in it, but a 10,000 volt ignitor.

Dec 13, 2013 | Reddy Heaters

1 Answer

I HAVE A 115,000 btu Keroscene heater. It just stopped running.


Take the top cover off of the unit. Plug it in and look inside the burner can to see if the ignitor is glowing. If not you probably need an ignitor. You can remove it to check the heating element to see if it is intact, but be very careful, it is more fragile than glass. If it is intact, you may have a control board issue. The ignitor should glow before the fan starts. Be careful to stay away from the fan blades while doing this. If the ignitor glows, and the motor starts, you should then be able to see fuel spraying out of the spray nozzle. You may need a flash light. If the fuel does not spray out of the nozzle in the correct amount, the unit will shut down. There is a photo cell that detects ignition. If the fuel pattern does not look even, you could have low air pressure out of the pump, a dirty fuel nozzle, or a plugged fuel screen inside of the tank. The air pressure comes from a pump on the back side of the blower motor. Insure that the filter are clean on the pump; there are three of them, and the plastic end cap needs to come off to access them. If they are dirty, they need to be replaced. The air pressure off of this pump is very critical to proper fuel delivery. The rated output pressure of the pump is on the heater data plate. You will need a low pressure air gage to check this pressure. Another source of low air pressure is the plastic end cover over the filters. They tend to crack with age. Spray soapy water on the end cap while the blower is running to look for leaks.

Jan 18, 2011 | Reddy Heaters

1 Answer

Replaced ignitor No Fire


Make sure that the ignitor is in the mist of atomized fuel. Or better yet do you have signs of fuel atomization? Check fuel filter usually an in line transparent type filter, if it is clear check the nozzle they have a screen inside as a filter as well no fuel there lines to the tank are next in line if you have fuel up to the nozzle it may be time to replace the nozzle sorry but you can not clean them any slight bend or widening of the holes changes the rate of the nozzle. Pay attention to the GPH rating and spray angle when replacing the nozzle.

Dec 10, 2010 | Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe

1 Answer

I have a master 150000 btu kerosene direct fire heater that runs for 5 minutes then shuts down and blows white smoke. what is the problem?


The white smoke is the kerosene fuel hitting the hot combustion chamber. Your flame has went out. The cause for this could be many. The first thing you need to do is check your fuel. Remove your fuel cap and look at the bottom of the tank for trash or water. Use a good flash light. It will all settle to the bottom. If so, drain and clean out your tank. Add fresh kerosene. Check your fuel filter. Replace if dirty. Test again. If problem continues, It is possible that your photo eye could be deffective or just dirty. It is located next to the ignitor or spark plug. It sees the flame. If the flame goes out, the unit shuts down. The flame has to be smooth (not sputtering). Water in the fuel will make it sputter and the unit will shut down. When the water/moisture in tank settles to the bottom, your suction fuel line is just off the bottom which results in it picking up the water instead of good fuel. Always disgard the old fuel from previous year and start with fresh fuel. This will cut down alot of your problems in the future.

Dec 07, 2010 | Master Heaters B155DST

1 Answer

Heater runs a few minutes then blows smoke and cuts off


Are you using the old fuel from last year? If so, drain and clean the tank. Replace with fresh fuel and replace the fuel filter. Check or replace the air filters. Check your ignitor for proper operation. Test again. Good luck.

Dec 01, 2010 | Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe

2 Answers

70,000 BTU Ready Heater


If...the air pump pressure is right, the ignitor glows, the fuel is hitting the ignitor, then the unit will have combustion......unless.....
  1. there is an air leak on the pressure line
  2. there is a vacuum leak on the fuel line
  3. there is a leak at the nozzle adapter
  4. there is a restriction either in the nozzle or the fuel filter
  5. the nozzle is worn and is spraying fuel rather than fogging fuel

Feb 09, 2009 | Reddy Heater-70,000 BTU Kerosene w/T'stat

2 Answers

Only runs for 15 seconds.


Testing a photocell is a simple procedure
How to test a photocell

Dec 15, 2008 | Heaters

4 Answers

RM115 Reddy Heater forced air heater problem


air pressure should be no more than 3.5 psi. could be your pressure is too high and is blowing out the flame.

Dec 05, 2007 | Reddy R155D Utility Heater

2 Answers

Kerosene forced-air heater won't start


Rick---A couple of things to check. With the unit off and unplugged, remove the spark plug-(Note-there may be a little setscrew which you have to remove first)----Put the plug wire back on the plug and ground it against the side of the heator and start it just briefly to see if the plug fires----If it does, then again with the unit shut off, remove the nozzle which has a set screw holding it in. The nozzle has 2 rubber lines running to it and leave them on and then start the unit (Note, be aware that in this test and the plug test that when its plugged in, the fan runs, so keep the plug wire and the rubber lines away from the fan) With the nozzle removed, watch very closely to see if a mist comes out of the nozzle after you plug it in. If no mist comes out, then you probably have either an air or fuel problem.---With the spark plug test, if there is no spark at the plug, the easiest way is to install a new plug and if there is still no spark, then the ignitor is probably bad----------On the nozzle test, try taking off the 2 lines on the nozzle, one line goes to the fuel tank and the other line is the air line (take note which line goes where) first blow thru each connection on the nozzle to see if its plugged and if its not then blow thru the hose going to the tank and you should hear a bubbling noise in the tank--if not then, its plugged or the hose is split----------The other line is the air line and if you can't get anything on it, the filter may be very dirty----behind the filter, there should be a port for checking the air pressure when the unit is running----The unit I have runs on 3 psi pressure, BUT yours may run on a different setting--That psi setting may be stamped on the unit behind the filter---Hope this helps

Nov 10, 2007 | Heaters

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