Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Electric dryer wont heat or turn off

My Kenmore electric dryer wont heat and the time stopped working at the same time. The timer # is 8299784 dryers modle # 110.64742400

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  • obxsalvo Feb 11, 2008

    I still have the problem on this dryer, will spin but no heat and timer stays @ whast ever setting you put it @

  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2009

    I just went through my dryer with the same problem. The heater is bad and it may also need a timer.

  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2014

    electric dryer wont heat

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There could be a temperature switch that tripps off. look at the diagram and trace also the power to the timer motor. it seems that you lost your power to your timer motor that is why the timer stays @ what ever setting you set it.

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Dryer works but timer doesn't move. I just replaced it and still having the same problem.


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I have an electric whirlpool dryer about 4 years old..here are my issues and any...


This advice is for all ELECTRIC Dryers that have a "No Heat" problem.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.


I hope this information is helpful to you. If you need further assistance, please go to my profile at: http://www.fixya.com/users/jsrock516 and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker repsonse to your questions/comments.

on Nov 30, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My Kenmore HE4 electric dryer runs for 2 minutes and stops


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
The timer could be the problem. To check this, turn the timer to a timed cycle say 30 minutes or so then time it. If in 30 minutes the timer hasn't moved and the dryer is still on, the timer is faulty replac it. If in 30 minutes the dryer is off, the heating element is your problem

Heating Element
This is the most likely cause for some dryers timer not advancing. Some dryers have two heating elements and if one goes out the timer will not advance if you use it on an automatic cycle but you will still feel heat inside the tub. Replace it

Oct 01, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer 70 series electric-quit heating and timer wont shut


https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Dryer-Repair-Help

This link will help you in diagnosis/disassembly/parts.

Possibly a faulty heat element is most common failure. Fix the no heat problem and the dryer should shut off ok.
Make sure you have correct voltage to the unit before tearing apart. Again visit the link above

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Nov 24, 2017 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore 70 Series Dryer not heating and not cutting off


I had an identical problem to yours this weekend with my Kenmore dryer. There were 2 problems.

1. Timer was broken. Does not advance to "OFF" position on timed dry, however it still works for auto-dry.

2. Thermal fuse was blown. Upon replacing, dryer heated up normally.

I believe when the timer broke, the dryer had kept running and blew the thermal fuse. On Sears' website, thermal fuse is $5.30, timer is roughly $80.

Kenmore 70 Series gas dryer, M# 110.76752500

Jan 01, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

It wont stop running... dries perfectly but wont stop. Thanks! ;o)


either a timer or the heating element or a blocked vent also there is a resister on some kenmore/whirlpool dryers and if it is out it wont advance in the auto cycles. It should advance in the timed cycle with or without heat

May 11, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore heavy duty clothes dryer will not heat


REMOVE THE BACK AND CHECK THE HEATER FUSE AND THE HEATING ELEMENT-MIKE

Feb 25, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer (electric )


NOT ELITE HE4..... Model 96595400. Replaced thermistor and Hi-Limit Stat. Probably the thermistor.

Jun 28, 2008 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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