Setting the timing without the specail tool to hold the cams on 3.5 chrysler concord 1996
I having a problem setting the timing on this 3.5 chrs. concord. I don' have the specail tool. An none of the parts store around here carries the tool.Please help me, I've been involve going on a month.
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Re: setting the timing without the specail tool to hold...
Why do you need a special tool???
all you need to do is take the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder stick yuour finger down in it and let some body turn it over barely bumping it until the cylinder touches the top make sure its at the top it may bump your finger a few times until you know ere the top truly is then match the marks on your timing chain or pullies
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I have a similar amp with the same problems, I was able to repair mine but after 1 week of problem free use it started to go into protect mode. I haven't had time to trouble shoot it again but I can tell you from experience that Audiobahn has a serious problem with making proper solder joints and this can cause any number of problems without showing of having any damaged components. Re-soldering every joint is the 1st thing I would do, also check that long RCA wire connection that runs from front to back and has 3 wires that plug onto the board. Make sure that those pins are still soldered in place and not touching the case and grounding out, Mine had 2 pins that were loose and had fallen down against the case along with every solder joint looking like it was not making contact fully. Get yourself a good soldering iron with a super thin tip and the finest thinnest solder you can find to tackle this job. You're looking at $40 for tools and 3 or more hours to do it but it still may not solve the problem. There may be burned out parts also. Either way you need to remove the board from the case.
Radios are held in place by a number of manufacturers' tricks. Usually, if you can remove the decorative panel around the radio (just gentle pulls), there will be one or two tiny slots on the sides of the radio where a removal tool can be inserted to free the radio. You might be able to insert a thin bladed screw driver or knife far enough to release the radio. Without the tools (generally two) you'll have to do one side at a time. Of course, your dealer or an electronics store will have the tools and can remove the radio for you--for a fee. Or are you planning to steal somebody's radio?
You have 3 sets of wire connecting to the amp (besides the rca connection), Red is power from the battery, Black is the round wire (shorter the better), lastly Blue is the remote turn on wire. Without the remote turn on, your amp will not power up regardless of the power from the battery.
RCA connectors are for your audio, it carries the noise signal to your amp from the head unit...
Any amp should be able to fit into almost any vehicle, you just need to figure out where you are going to mount it. Find a spot in the trunk or under the seat (or on the back of the seat) and mount it anywhere you have room.
You have 3 choices - 1. the speaker is blown, 2. the wiring is broken or disconnected, 3. No output from the amp.
If you have a VOM, an inexpensive one wil work fine, and can get the speaker connection, set the meter to 1K, hold one lead against one speaker post and tap the other post, if the woofer cone moves it's not the problem. Connect the wires back to the speaker posts and then disconnect them from the amp. Hold one probe against one wire and tap the other - if the woofer makes a sound then woofer and wires are good - take the amp to the shop or buy a new one.
I am not sure that making a tool is possible or even worth it. Many of the popular auto parts stores have a tool rental program (or you just use retail rental, buy, use, return.)
My concern would be the tension on the springs and the little retainers that hold them. Even with the head off and with the tool this was a job. The spring compressor kept popping off. I tried three styles of compressors and used the one that popped the least. Also the retainers liked to fall in the hardest to get to part of the head. So having a compressor you are not so sure about and scrambling to find and replace the retainer is probably not a good idea.
There is a good write up on this page: www.allpar.com/mopar/3fix.html
1. Your key, when turned to lock or unlock in the driver's door key cylinder and held there, will roll the windows/sunroof up or down respectively,
2. The transmitter on your car locks and unlocks the doors just fine.
3. You know where the valet switch for your alarm is located.
Program as follows:
Open the door and leave it open until you've finished programming. Turn the ignition on and off. Push the Valet switch and release it 10 times, and push it an 11th time making sure to hold it in. You should see 10 flashes on the status LED, 10 siren chirps, or both. This tells you that you are in option 10, which is the comfort closure feature.
At this point push the unlock button on the transmitter. That will change the comfort closure setting to "on". Once the unlock button is pushed the LED should stop flashing. At this point it is programmed and you can turn the ignition on again.