I have owned this sub since it first came out. I moved to a new home. I tested everything all seemed to work well originally. I have had to use approx 20 ft. of low level input cable. For the last 7 ft. I have all the speaker cable, a few power cables and a few misc rca cables all jacketed in the same jacet sleave for neatness. I seem to not have the "power/pound" that I had originally. I removed the single sub low level rca cable from the "bunch" and no difference. It does pound but only approx 1/2 of what it did originally. Would it be signal loss (low level input), an amp problem? I cannot adjust the sub output on the receiver. Quality cables are used.
Opinions/solutions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much.
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If you can't get this to work, I suggest you try to return the remote and buy and harmony remote. For me it worked very well with everything including old audio amps and you can configure your own activities.
Normally these low end systems components that depend on each other and cannot be interchangeable from other system. So if one of the components (sub woofer or right control satellite speaker) breaks or gets lost the whole system is unusable...
I was in the same situation. Got a sub woofer from VS4121 without original satellite speakers. I acquired satellite speakers from Altec Lansing 251 which used same connectors but the internal wiring was different and incompatible out of the box. Speakers are also glued together so it is impossible to open without damaging it. Not to mention there is no service documentation anywhere..
But if you like electronics you can try to make something based on the information bellow:
Altec Lansing VS4121 connector pinout
If you take the male connector (from right satellite speaker) and look at the pins and number them first row from left to right pins 1-3, second row pins 4-7, the bottom row pins 8-9 and the circle enclosure as 0
0 - Ground
1 - Speaker Right
2 - Treble (seems just like voltage control but may need to be confirmed: Min=0V; Max=voltage from Volume control Pin 9)
3 - Head Set Right
4 - Bass signal (not sure what the exact original design is as I have not opened the speaker) But seems like they use 50K potentiometer and some sort of RC low pass filter configuration. When potentiometer is set to Min it is shorted with ground. When set to Max it is taking signal from Right and Left Head Set (pins 3 and 5) combined through some larger resistors and low pass filter.
5 - Head Set Left
6 - Ground for Head set (grounds 0 and 6 seems to be connected in the subwofer but within the right satelite speaker they seem to be isolated with separate leads to sub)
7 - Power ON/OFF. When OFF or head set jack plugged = 0V; When ON and head set jack unplugged = 5V
8 - 5V Power in
9 - Volume (min=0V; max=5V). It seems they use 50K potentiometer but probably anything >10k should work.
At minimum for standalone sub woofer you will need to implement:
- Power On.Off (switch between pins 8,7)
- Volume control (50k potentiometer (probably anything beteen 10k and 50k will do)between pin 7 and 0 with variable output to pin 9
- Bass control - join two resistors R (I used 7k) and lets call this join point A. Attach other ends of the resistors to pins 3 and 5 respectively. Attach 50k potentiometer (I used 10k) between point A and ground 0. Attach Variable pin of the potentiometer to pin 4 (Bass input signal). Attach capacitor C between Pin 4 and Ground pin 0 (I used Electrolytic 1uF with negative end to ground) . Resistor R and capacitor C should make simple passive low pass filter (Google for formula) that should bypass anf frequency higher than 80-120Hz to ground and feed frequencies lower than 80-120Hz to pin 4.
PS: I managed to hack 251 control satellite speaker to somewhat work with VS 4121 Subwoofer but that is another subject. All electronic parts were salvaged from old broken TV so total cost was $0 but took several days of tinkering for speakers that I could buy used for $10-20 :)
Fault is either from the main system or the sub-woofer itself.
You need to test both unit in order to detect which of the two is giving the fault, so that you can concentrate on the faulty unit.
Test the woofer with a AA battery or any other battery. Put your ears close to the woofer and observe if you will hear any sound. If the woofer makes sound, then it means the woofer is working, but if it doesn't make sound, then it means the woofer is defective. Or you can disconnect one of the working speakers and connect the woofer to that part. If there is no sound, then obviously, the woofer is defective.
If the woofer seem to be working, then the unit needs to be tested also.
Connect one of the working speakers to the sub-woofer's section of the main unit. If the speaker doesn't bring out sound, check the system's menu settings, check the volume and make sure the sub-woofer volume is raised to the highest level and not on mute. ( Note that most Theater systems has separate volumes for each speakers). If the volume is raised to the highest level and there is still not sound from the woofer part, then it means the woofer channel has burnt. It could be a fuse or a defective channel. At this point, I think you need help from a repairman.
If I understand this correctly: with NO input or cable attached it hums; with an RCA cable attached it works. (What does 'some' mean in this regard?)
You say that connecting the RCA cable improves its sound. That tells me you're supplying a ground through the RCA cable for stray voltage in the sub.
It seems there may be a basic power issue if it hums with no input. Sometimes a given power source in a home may be wired differently than others or may insufficient grounding, which can result in hum. Try reversing the sub's power plug or move it somewhere else.
Since the sub contains its own electronics it is also susceptible to strong external magnetic fields. Keep it and any signal cables leading to it some distance away from other electrical devices like TV's.