Question about Mitsubishi WD-62525 62" Rear Projection HDTV
I have a mitsubishi dlp model wd-62525. i changed my lamp about 4 months ago. all of the sudden the screen had green lines going horizontal then just went black. sound is there, red light came on. had technician come out and he seem confused. he said the lamp comes on then shuts off. he said it might be the power supply not getting enough power and said it would cost around $500. any suggestions are very much apreciated. don't really wanna drop $500 on a possible easy fix.
Regarding the horizonta lines i can say it is not a common problem. This is a vertical deflection problem - possibly a bad capacitor, bad connection, flyback/pumpup diode, or other component. If the symptoms change - particularly if they become less severe as the set warms up, a dried up electrolytic capacitor is most likely. If they get worse, it could be a bad semiconductor. Freeze spray or a heat gun may be useful in identifying the defective component.
It is often easiest to substitute a good capacitor for each electrolytic in the vertical output circuit. Look for bad connections (particularly to the deflection yoke), then consider replacing the vertical output IC or transistor(s).
Here is what I want you to do:
ONE: Do a hard reset (just to make sure there is nothing in the coding that is fowling things up). Unplug the power cord; leave it disconnected for 4 hours. That will restore everything to factory defaults when you power it back up.
TWO: Do the "whacking test" by banging your fist on a few strategic places to see if there are any cold solder joints or loose wires acting up inside the set.
THREE: If the above does not restore the picture, then there is probably something strange going on with the horizontal deflection system. Probably one of the main Integrated Circuits that process the video and the raster generation. I doubt if it is the convergence board.
So finally if none of the steps told above solves ur problem i am sad to say you have to get it repaired..
Posted on Feb 10, 2008
There are so many possibilities. It could be a dead projector tube,
leaking cooler fluids, bad power supply connection, broken connector pin
and so on. You really need someone who can get inside and find out the
cause of failure; it requires one who knows how to observe, take measurements
and track down the various possibilities. It is not an easy job on this one
and it is not a home remedy solution, sorry to say.
For the beginner, here are two things you can do - and they don't cost anything.
ONE: Do a hard reset. Unplug the power cord for 4 full hours, then power it up again.
TWO: Give it the banging test. Smack the set vigorously with your hand or fist in
various places. Doing so will often reactivate a loose connection or cold solder joint.
This may bring the red gun back to life - let's give it a 35% chance of doing so.
If these two procedures don't help you are going to have to bring in the big guns.
Just a comment: There are over 3,000 parts in a set of this kind not counting the
millions of transistors buried inside the several integrated circuits. There are
about 12 totally independent sections that function on their own as well as interface
with all the other circuits. It is not something easy to do. Even a trained and
experienced PHD in Electrical Engineering does not have the foggiest idea about what
goes on inside a tv without extensive training in television receiver theory and practice.
So, don't feel overcome with it all; there are few who really know this business.
IT is truly esoteric in nature.
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Posted on Feb 10, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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