THIS WASHER THINKS THE DOOR IS OPEN, WHEN IN FACT IT IS LOCKED CLOSED. i HAVE POWERED OFF SEVERAL TIME, EVEN REMOVED POWER, HOPING IT WOULD UNLOCK DOOR MECH.IT WON'T. I CANT OPEN THE DOOR AT ALL. DOES ANYONE HAVE A SOLUTION, LIKE ENTERING A SERVICE CODE, OR HITTING A SECRET EJECT BUTTON????
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Most likely solution: The door latch assembly. When the door closes, the internal latch electronics must "sense" that the door is closed, but sometimes doesn't. When it correctly senses a closed door, it "locks" the door (electronically) and the door can't be opened until the machine has been OFF for about 100 secs. If the door doesn't "lock" when closed, it's just not sensing that it's closed. Solution: Close the door a bit more forcefully. I've seen cases where the door would need to be closed pretty hard, 3-4 times before it "locked". Once it senses the door is closed, and locks, the machine operates normally. The latch assy can be replaced, but often develops the same problem, eventually. Slamming the door won't hurt it.
The lock/latch on your door is electromechanical, incorporating a electrical safety catch. See if a reboot (unplug for 10 minutes, then plug it back in.) does anything for you. It could be a latch, wiring, motherboard, door closed safety circuit or something in the pause circuit.
Malbers use a thermal (heat acting) latch to hold the door closed, so it stays latched for about 2 mins after being turned off. This is to give you time to think before you open the door and possibly spill water all over your feet. When the little bi-metallic piece cools off, it bends to one side (inside the latch assy) releasing the catch, and the door can be opened. Sometimes, the bi-metallic part bends OK, but the latch catches and won\'t release. It just needs a little vibration to free it up. A smack to the latch area (on door or face of Washer) will free the latch.
I tell my customers: Don\'t pull too hard on the white door handle. If you can\'t open it with your little finger (seriously) it\'s not ready to open!
This problem is usually the front door latch "interlock" is not engaging. This is the safety device which keeps you from opening the door and pouring gallons of water on your feet. When you close the door, if the machine DOESN'T recognize it's closed - all electricity is cut off and the machine does nothing. If the machine DOES recognize the door is latched, the latch will lock and you can't open the door (for about 90 secs after you turn it off or unplug it). Does the door LOCK when it's closed? If not, just close it harder several times. A medium "slam" almost always takes care of a "sticky" interlock - and it doesn't hurt anything.
The door lock and switch assembly has failed. You may actually hear it click several times before the code appears. If not, it may not be receiving power or signal from the central control unit to activate.
Disconnect power to the washer to avoid electric shock.
Remove the three screws from the rear of the top panel attaching it to the cabinet then slide the panel rearward, and then lift it off the cabinet.
Disconnect the third and the fourth from right, facing the front of the washer, wiring harness connectors from the central control unit. Clean the connector terminals thoroughly then reseat it several times to ensure a good connection between them. Do the same with the connector second from the top on the left side of the central control unit.
After ensuring that the connectors are properly connected, slide the top panel back in place, and then secure it the three attaching screws.
The next thing to do is visually check the door lock and switch assembly for physical damage.
Remove the wire and spring assembly that holds the door gasket to the lip of the door opening. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to stretch the retaining spring then remove it together with the wire.
Gently peel the part of the door gasket near the door lock/latch
assembly off the lip of the right side of the door opening. Remove
enough of the door gasket to access the door lock/latch assembly behind
the front panel.
Remove the three screws securing the door
lock/latch assembly to the front panel and slightly lift it then pull it
back off the front panel.
Pull the door lock/latch assembly out
of the washer and disconnect the wiring harness. Clean the terminals and reseat it several times.
To replace the door lock and switch assembly (part #8182634); connect the wires properly then secure the assembly into position behind the front panel with the three securing screws.
Put the eased part of the door
gasket back in place over the lip of the door opening.
that the door gasket is properly seated before securing it with the retaining wire and spring around the lip of the door opening and the
DL stands for Door Lock failure, if your door isnt closing all the way, check to make sure your hinges are lining up and that one of the arms has not broken off on the door, there should be 2 arms going into the door lock. whats common on these is that the door latch has trouble unlocking so it is forced open and now the door latch mechinism is stuck in the locked position and cant re-open. problems with this lock opening and closing- 9 times out of ten, come from a main computer failure to send power to the door lock. this can be temporairily fixed by re-seating the door latch wire harness in the main computer, but its usually recommended to buy a new computer since this problem has been address on the new series of computer. there is no recall on this board at the moment. estimated cost $250-$400
The first thing to try is to hold the cancel button for 15 seconds. The more labor intensive solution is this: Remove the panel beneath the door (2 or 3 screws). Reach up, there is a
little "ring" beneath the door lock. Pull this down, it releases the