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Looking for eclipse 32440 premier amplifier

Its a gray or white amp i purchase at the pawn shop but i don't know how many watts it has. also it is a 4 channel. please tell me a little more about this amp. how old is it? also it is in comparison with the 32430 amp.

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I got my eclipse amp at

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

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Is this a good power amp what are todays sinfo on it

Posted on Apr 26, 2008

  • john000 Apr 26, 2008

    the out put power 2o:120w x 4 ch,4o:85w x 4 ch,4o bridged 240w x 2 ch

  • john000 Apr 26, 2008

    its gray



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How to choose a car amplifier

I have seen several (ok, MANY) posts here lately, asking about how to choose an amplifier, with all sorts of "Is this good...?" types of questions.

Here is what I look at when choosing an amplifier, and in their order of preference:

1. Power. I know, this is where MOST people look first, but it's the very reason you are buying an amp, right? Also knowing Ohm's Law, and knowing that I will almost always load an amplifier with the maximum specified impedance (impedance - 4 ohms or higher, NOT load - 4 ohms or lower), I need to know exactly how much power I am looking at to start with. When loading an amp with a higher impedance, the amp will make less power, so I have to keep this spec in mind the whole time. My speakers are almost always chosen before I decide to start looking for an amplifier, I know the impedance and efficiency numbers when I start. This will help me decide how much power I need or want for that particular driver compliment. I will NEVER look at "Max Ratings". They are often worthless, generally overinflated, selling tools, designed by old-school, low-end amplifier companies, originally made to sell product. (You remember how it went (and still goes today)... This 800 watt amplifier is only 200 dollars, but the Nakamichi 160 watt monoblock is 1300 bux for the pair. Which were (are) YOU going to buy?) Ahhhh, the power of advertising... Classic Nakamichi, Alpine, Linear Power, Orion, Eclipse, etc., THEY never posted "Maximum Power" numbers, did they? Unfortunately, even the good products of today will state maximum power output, I just disregard the numbers posted.

2. Signal to noise ratio. This one I place a bit more weight on, especially when the amplifier is going to be used in a mid-bass (important), mid-range (more important) or highs (MOST important) application. The higher the better, and there is no exception to this rule for me. Amps with tube stages are typically less capable than their solid state stablemates in this area, but I do make exceptions for tube amps. It is NOT a terribly important spec for a bass amp, so when shopping for a bass amp, don't bother with this number. Dedicated bass amps, BTW, usually offer awful SNR numbers.

3. Efficiency. Here's where you will be able to tell a decent manufacturer from the ****. Let's say you are looking at an 250 watt (RMS) amplifier. The first physical thing I look at, is how big a fuse do they recommend (or what size fuse is in the end of the amp)? I know right now that 250 watts OUT will demand (and I use 50% efficiency to keep it simple) 500 watts in. 500 watts in, divided by the (car running) battery voltage (14.4v) is about 35A. If I look at the end of the amp, and see a 20A fuse, I'm walking away, as there is no way that amp can make 250 REAL watts, continuously. 14.4v times 20A, equals 280 watts in. 250 watts out, divided by 280 watts in, translates to an 89% efficiency. In a class A/B amp, this is an impossible number, and it even stretches the imagination for digital amps, as well. The theoretical MAXIMUM efficiency for class A/B is 66%, (95% for digital) so someone is lying. I don't care WHO the manufacturer is, if these numbers don't add up, I will start looking elsewhere... Now, if all the other specification look good, AND I can get in the vicinity of the RMS power I am looking for, I will buy an amp that's efficiency number might be stretching the truth a bit. My old Nak 160 watt monoblocks had 40A (that's 480 watts in - a 33% efficiency, people!) fuses in each one, and they ran hotter than a firecracker, even loaded at over 8 ohms. I liked that. smiley1.gif

4. Terminals. A frequently overlooked part of an amp, this is a very important part of an amp to me. A car is a place frought with vibrations. A cheap or cheezy feeling connector in power or speaker terminals and most ESPECIALLY in the RCA inputs, will often cause problems in the future. Setscrews for power, quality terminal blocks for speaker outputs, and Tiffany style RCA connections (the type attached to the chassis, rather than a block of plastic soldered to the PC board.) The quality of the I/Os can be a direct indicator of the attention to detail paid to the rest of the piece. Translation? Overall Quality.

5. Heat sink. This one is simple. How does it look? I eventually chose Eclipse gear, because it looked like jewelry. Fine finish and appearance. Also, heatsink size and quality can be another indicator of quality of the amplifier as whole. A heavy heatsink will also provide better thermal stability, a nice thing in an amp.

6. Damping Factor. I used to place more emphasis on this spec, but my research recently (over the last few years, really) has, while not proven to me it is a useless spec, has not proven to me it is an extremely important spec. This is why this particular spec is a little further down the list. While I place a bit more emphasis on it for a bass or mid-bass amp, I, admittedly, place less weight here than I used to...

7. Price. Money rarely means much to me in an amp, (much like my computers - "Life's too short to build slow computers." - David Draper) it's something I am going to be keeping for a long time usually, so I will save if necessary to get EXACTLY (or close to) what I am looking for.

These are the things I look for when trying to decide on an amp. OBVIOUSLY, there are going to be VERY few amps on the market that will make me happy across the board, but then some of the physical characteristics listed above can be made to fit me and my desires with a little time, a couple extra bux, and some careful use of a soldering iron. All of the above things will cost more, but it will ADD more to the finished product as well...

on Mar 27, 2010 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

I have 2 15" dvc 4 ohm kickers 1000 watt / 500 rms &a1000 watt avionixx 4 channel amp what would be the right wiring scheme?

need to know the ohms on the amplifiers then might can tell you best solution for system

Mar 05, 2013 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Replacing fan. Wires from ceiling are grey pink white & bare copper. Wired to light switch. What wire connects to what? Ok so we just bought the place. The painters removed the old fans that had no...

Sounds like you have two hot wires. Just need to find out which wire goes to the wall switch. Try gray to black from fan,pink to black/white wire.white to white & green to green. If this doesn't work swich the pink & gray wires.

Feb 03, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Which speakers (Front/Rear) to buy that match Kenwood KAC-M846 4/3/2 Channel Amplifier.

I don,t no where you are reading thease articles from,I installed car audio equipment for over 40 years, Untill i retired a couple of months ago, Who ever is writeing those sort of articles does not have the slightest clue what they are talking about, It is the opposite way around, It is allway better for yor (Speakers) To handle more power then what your amp puts out, Then you will not blow the spaekers, It is best to get speakers at least 20 watts more then what your amps maximuin (RMS) Watts are, Hope this helps you out, (PS) 50 watts (RMS) Is what most people go for, It is in no means (Under) Powered.

Nov 05, 2012 | Kenwood Kac-m846 4/3/2 Channel Amplifier...

1 Answer

I have 2 sony xplod 4ohm subs rated 350w rms and 1200w max, i have them in really shallow boxes because i drive a single cab toyota, i know these subs **** but i do also know that they can hit alot harder...

the premier amp is better since it has a better rms rating (360w total or 160w each sub) than the eclipse (280w if you bridge all 4 channels which isn't possible but 140w for each speaker bridging 2 channels per speaker). Neither are going to push your subs but if you get another amp wiring kit and use one amp per sub they will sound a lot better and you could just hook both power wire and ground wires from the bridged channels to the power and ground terminals for the sub. That would be my suggestion since the subs are rated at 350w and each amp is 280w and 320w which will push but not blow the subs.

Aug 17, 2010 | Sony Car Audio & Video

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Need radio wiring diagram for 2001 mitsubishi eclipse

CHeck HERE the 2001 diagram.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Jul 05, 2010 | 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder

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Well i want to hook up hifonix amp and one pioneer premier un my hyundai xg350l and i want my stock radio to stay i know i need some sort of adapter to create rca's and also where would the remote line go...

you need a (loc) line out convertor you can get at best buy or radio shack and the remote wire will need to be tap in at the fuse panel to the radio fuse. so that amp comes on when the car is turned on.

Feb 02, 2010 | Stingpro ST444 1850 Watts Complete...

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Just want to know if i should use my ll203 amp in am or ssb mode when running with a cobra CB radio?

What radio?? Does it have single side band(SSB)? If not, then don't use SSB.

AM - amplitude modulation
SSB - single side band.

If you have SSB, there would be a switch on it to transmit in SSB. If not, it is AM only.

Second, Has this radio been worked on to be able to run on an amp? If not, you will blow the amp.

A CB radio transmits dead keys with 4 watts of power, and transmits with 4 watts of audio.

a 4 watt dead key is too much for a linear amp. You will smoke the transistors. Also, 4 watts of audio is not enough to drive it properly. You won't get full power.

The dead key needs to be around 2 to 2 -1/2 watts,or what ever makes the linear dead key half its peak wattage., and the modulation (audio) turned up all the way.

It doesn't sound like you know too much about CB radio's. Not a big deal, you can learn. For right now you may want to take it to a cb shop and tell them you want a peak and tune, and set up to run a linear.

You can find CB shops usually at truck stops. Some area's they are other places. Check the internet for local shops.

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