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Fortunately, your ice maker is repairable. The module is like a little computer. It has a circuitry, a motor and a rotating gear set. The module tells the water solenoid valve when to turn on and how much water to fill the cube tray. Then it reads a sensor telling the module that the cubes are frozen. Then it turns on a heater under the cube mold. After a period the module tells the motor to turn on and harvest the ice cubes. It also has a lever arm on/off switch.
Watch the video. Remove the module from the ice maker. You may need a small flat head ***** driver to pop off the cover to get to it. Inspect the circuitry for any burn marks.
You will need to jump start the ice maker after reassembly and if you decide to just buy a new one.
1.) Insert a piece of 12 or 14 gauge jumper wire into the two holes on the face of the module marked: "T' and "H".
2.) Hold in the door light switch.
3.) After the module starts wait 5 seconds and remove the jumper, while still holding in the door light switch, until the ice maker has completer it's cycle and fills with water. This will not solve your problem. This is how to start the icemaker - not shown in the video
Module Cost: Sears $98.56 + Tax
2.) Ice Maker Water Solenoid Valve: Part Number W10341320.
If your ice maker is filling with water, then the solenoid is working, but the spool valve may be sticking and not closing quickly.
See general replacement video.
Solenoid Valve Cost: Sears $80.00
Search the internet for best price including used.
Go into the Sears website and put in your refrigerator model number. You will get diagrams and component part numbers.
If you have an ice maker in there it could be that there is too much water entering the tray and the excess spills out. OR the drain that gets rid of melted ice during the auto defrost cycle could be clogged and the water stays in freezer, pools and refreezes.
I need you to pour tap water into the ice maker to the top. Let water freeze and if the ice maker cycles and drops the ice into the ice bin and then does not refill the problem will most likely be the=> W10408179 Water Control Valve
If the ice maker does nothing and water control fills the ice slots the problem will point to the=> 8201515 Ice Maker Module
I will be here and glad to answer any questions you may have, Thanks Sea Breeze
There is a diagnostic code you can check first of all. The blinking light will indicate the type of problem that is happening. I have included a diagnostic chart for you. To check out the ice maker there are some test points on the ice maker module that can be jumped with a well insulated wire. I have also included a picture of the test points. Before starting any of the testing first unplug the unit from the wall outlet. You will need to determine if there is 120 volts present at the ice maker module, this will require a meter. If you have access to a meter and feel comfortable doing this type of testing check between terminals L-N for 120 volts. If there is voltage there next unplug the unit again and with your jumper now jump from terminals T-H. Plug the unit back in and if the ice maker runs, after a few seconds remove the jumper and watch it go through a complete cycle. If it fills with water at the end of the cycle then the ice maker will need to be replaced. If there is no water fill unplug the refrigerator again and jump terminals L-V. Plug the unit back in and if you get water now the will need to be replaced. If there is no water fill you will need to verify if there is voltage at the water valve in back of the unit with your meter. If there is voltage there replace the valve, if no voltage that will indicate there is either a broken wire in the cabinet or a poor connection in the ice maker harness.
always check water supply first if good pressure. you will need to start the icemaker. some will let you push start. but most roper(fsp) product requires you to jump the (T) AND (H) terinals on the frnt of the icemaker module to start. start ice maker and listen to see if solinois engages. if nothing afer a full cycle. try again and check for 12v/ac to the icemaker solinoid
Vik, the ejector blades should be pointing toward you in the 2:00 position when the ice maker is home. This tends to make me believe that your module is bad. Pull the ice maker out again and check the center white gear. There should be 2 clips holding it on. If one of those clips broke, the gear will not rotate right. Another thing you mentioned is that you had water on the back side where the line goes into the fill tube. You may have a frozen inlet tube too. If the tube is frozen, the pressure will force it out the back by that connection. Pulling that tube out can be a pain, try using a hair dryer if the baster not working. On this model, you can't just jump T&H to start the cycle because of the immiters. Follow these instructions to start a cycle.
To jump start the ice maker do the following: Unplug the refrigerator. With the ice maker out of it’s mount but connected to the harness use a insulated jumper wire stripped a quarter inch on each end and place the jumper in the holes marked T & H on the module. Place the ice maker with the jumper in, on the shelf with enough clearance to close the freezer door. Close the freezer door. Plug the refrigerator back in and wait 50 seconds. Now open the door and see if the module is rotating. If so remove the jumper, put the cover back on the module and place the ice maker back in its mount. The water fill should take place when the ejector blades are at the 12:00 position. Note that on some models, after you have done the aforementioned proceedure you have to press and release the light switch 3 times for the module to start.
Tammi, you first want to check to make sure the water inlet tube to the icemaker is not frozen shut. Next, get yourself a jumper wire about 4 inches long with the ends stripped exposing the wire on each end. Pull off the ice maker cover, it will pull right off. Now you are looking at the module. On the module, left side, you will see two test points marked V and L. Insert one end of the jumper wire into V and the other marked L. You are now sending 120 volts to the water valve and water should fill the ice maker providing the inlet tube is not frozen over. If it doesn't fill, you either have a bad water valve or module itself. Also check to see if the clips that hold the center gear on the module are not broken. Catriver..post back.
95% of ice maker problems are the motor module. See http://tinyurl.com/ykln8r for what it is and if it matches your fridge. Basically here's what ya need for ice... 17 degrees (F) or below, water fill solenoid working with water flow, t-stat on ice tray working OK and motor module turning.
George, the ice maker will cycle about every 2.5 hours. Sometimes it takes a couple cycles to prime the lines. You can remove the white cover of the ice maker. On the module you will see two ports, one marked L and another marked V on the left side. Take a insulated jumper wire and jump these two terminals. You are now sending 120V to the valve. See if the water starts coming in. Also make sure the bailing arm is down. Catriver...post back.