Question about Braun WK600 Cordless Electric Kettle

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Leaking kettle cordless kettle leaks from base when boiling and continues leaking if water left in the kettle

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  • dschmidt3 Apr 10, 2008

    all the braun impressions wkx00 (eg., wk200, wk600) models begin leaking from the base after a year or two of regular use - no solution but to replace unit and proctor and gamble (which owns the braun name) discontinued manufacture of all of these as of january of 2008


    was a great product otherwise - unfortunately other units have similar or worse reviews

  • nr9876 Apr 20, 2008

    Have exactly the same problem (after 11 months using).

  • Anonymous Jul 05, 2008

    Braun WK600 Impressions began leaking after 18 months.
    Great product - I'd buy it again despite this problem.
    Does not appear fixable.


  • Bob Compton
    Bob Compton Jul 21, 2008

    I had the kettle for less than a year when it started to leak.  I took it to my local service center who said it was unrepairable.  Since it was still under warranty, they replaced it, although I had to wait several weeks for a new kettle.  I have had the second kettle for a little over a year now and IT HAS STARTED LEAKING.  Is there anyway to get Braun to acknowledge that this product has a manufacturing defect and get them to give a least a partial credit for replacement?  This is a high-end product that was not inexpensive.  I would have expected it to last longer than a year or so.
        

  • caribousteak May 13, 2009

    Same problem exactly.  It seems its definitely a manufacturing defect.  Sad as it is an expensive kettle and a good looking one. Don't want to get rid of it but filling it up past the half way mark and it leaks!  Braun doesnt manufacture this any more so no one will be the better off for a fix .  Too bad.  

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6 Suggested Answers

oscarn
  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: kettle shuts off before boiling?

This is caused by a defective overload switch inbuilt in the kettle, sometimes the senitivity is higher than factory settings causing it to trip and reset several times before coming to boil. probably better to put up with it than going in for a costly repair.

Posted on Sep 28, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: light switch on Breville SK500-XL Kettle

e mail askus@brevilleUSA.com

Send them model number
PDC code (on bottom of kettle)
your name and address
where and when device was purchased
They can send you a part or send you a FEDEX label for a warranty repair.

This is a very common problem

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: kettle shuts off before boiling?

I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Red light's on... but no hot water!

Just a bit of clarification; the lights and heating element are both downstream of the thermal protection ( I had mine apart and had a look). Therefore the lights would be off if the thermal protection had kicked in.
Lights on but no heat means element has a problem. Could be loose wire but more likely burnt out. If you have a tamper proof TORX bit you can take the bottom cover off and check for continuity through the element. Isolate the lights from the element so your meter is not accidentally seeing continuity through the lights.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Automatic switch off not working when water reached boiling.

There is no do it yourself fix for this problem. However, placing a folded cloth on top of the kettle (covering the spout) will cause it to switch off quicker, as it increases the pressure inside the kettle.

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: shuts off

Does the unit shut off only before the water boils, or does it shut off and on periodically? I just fixed my friend's WK200 Braun kettle. His would shut off and on, eventually coming to a boil. During normal operation, when you press the switch, it is connected to a rod which at its other end (ie the bottom of the kettle) is able to close the circuit allowing the current to pass through the heating element. In my friend's case, the contact had become weak - I just had to slightly bend the metal pole a little bit to provide a better contact when the switch was depressed. To repair the unit, I only needed a couple of torx screwdrivers and a voltmeter to measure continuity. (note, if you bend the metal pole too much, then the circuit will always be closed even when the switch is OFF - make sure you test for an open circuit when the switch is OFF)

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

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