There is a plunger type mechanism on the left side of the prinrter as you face it, which connects to a black piece of plastic covered in rubber, which sits atop of a metal trigger. How does the white plunger connect to this black plastic so that it will function correctly and what is its function?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1. Place your hands at each end of the retainer trim piece that runs along the bottom of the dishwasher door panel. The piece may be metal, black plastic or another color, depending on your dishwasher model. Lift up on the retainer section and pull it toward you to remove it. Set the retainer aside.
2. Press the palms of both hands on the old facing and slide it down until the top is free. The facing flexes easily to allow you to slip it out from under the trim along each side.
3. Hold the replacement door panel, or reverse the old one, so that the desired color is facing you. Turn the panel, if needed, so the dimensions line up with the dishwasher door.
4. Slip the side of the facing into the left side of the frame on the dishwasher door.
5. Secure the other side of the facing into the right side of the dishwasher frame by bowing the panel gently and sliding it into the frame.
6. Slide the new facing up and into place so you can reposition the retainer.
7.Hold the new color panel and the spacer behind it up over the lower edge of the frame about 1/4 inch.
8. Snap the retainer into place. Push down on the horizontal piece gently to ensure it is securely connected.
9. Adjust the new panel down a bit with the palms of your hands to cover the 1/4-inch space.
Underneath your vanity attached to the back side of your drain line you will see a rod protruding vertically from the back side of drain line. This rod actually operates the plunger from the inside of the drain line. At the end of said rod you will find a thin piece of flat flexible metal which slides onto to the horizontal rod and acts as a retaining clip which when squeezed together will allow you to move it back and forth on the horizontal rod, on this rod is a piece of flat stock (clevis) with holes which runs parallel to the drain line. At the top of this flat stock is where your plunger rod attaches in place with a thumb nut or some other type of finger adjustable fastener (some brands will use an actual hex nut which by the way makes it a bit harder). The easiest way to re-install plunger rod is to remove the flat stock with holes from the horizontal rod and then attach the top of the flat stock to the plunger rod and secure. Once that is done it's just a matter of adjusting it up and down to achieve the best position for closing the drain. Note that to remove the flat stock off of the horizontal rod squeeze the edges of the retainer together which will allow you to slide it back and forth or completely remove it from the horizontal rod to make proper adjustments. The hardest part of this type of job is the access tho the back of the sink which is where all is located. I went ahead and included a diagram which shows the most typical style of plunger assembly. Hopes this helps you.
Remove the air cleaner, air duct and the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir can remain attached to the hoses---just unbolt it and move it to the side out of your way. Remove the serpentine belt. Before removing the serpentine belt, make sure there is a diagram on the hood or radiator support to show you the belt routing. If the belt routing sticker is missing, sketch out a picture of the belt routing.
Siphon the fluid out of the reservoir of the power steering pump, or be prepared to cap the line ports off. You can cap the line ports off with a piece of rubber hose. Close the open end of the hose with a large bolt. Unbolt the power steering pump from its bracket and set it aside. Cap any open hose ends or pipe fittings. This will prevent additional fluid loss.
Remove the right timing belt cover, spark plug wire cover, left timing belt cover and the ECM harness cover using the ¼-inch tools. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner with the 3/8-inch tools. Unclip the power steering hose from the alternator. Using the ¼-inch tools or the 3/8-inch tools, remove the center timing belt cover and the right and left camshaft covers.
Remove the tensioner side plate. The side plate is located just under the left cams and has three bolts holding it on. The tensioner is hydraulic and includes a plunger unit. Turn the plunger unit to remove it from the pulley arm and socket. Make sure you do not lose the tapered brush that sits between the plunger and the mount. Loosen and remove the tensioner pulley bolt (located at about 10 o'clock on the tensioner pulley). Tape the pulley pivot bushing to the pulley so it doesn't fall out. Remove the pulley and the arm. Remove the timing belt.
Installing the Timing Belt
Bend a thick paper clip so you have a straight piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long. Clamp the tensioner plunger at its center in a vise, with the plunger pointing toward the ground. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes to get the oil into the rubber boot. Remove the plug from the flat base of the plunger and insert a small screwdriver into the vent hole. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the pushrod is retracted. Make sure the pushrod is fully retracted before moving on to the next step.
Push the wire peg you created in Step 1 into the vent hole and turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until you feel the wire peg lock into the pushrod. Fill the plunger with 5W-30 synthetic engine oil to the bottom of the hole. Do not overfill the plunger. Put the plug back on the plunger. Make sure the plug is in securely and the plunger is completely sealed. Wipe the plunger clean of spilled oil.
Clean the tensioner pulley, but do not lubricate it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the number 1 cylinder (front cylinder on the driver's side) is at top dead center and the timing marks on the crank pulley and the block are lined up. Top dead center is achieved when the piston in the number 1 hole reaches its complete height in the rotation. You can feel for this by sticking a screwdriver in number 1 spark plug hole while turning the crank pulley.
Turn all four of the camshaft pulleys so that the machined flats are facing up. Install the timing clamps on each camshaft carrier. Torque the bolt on the timing clamp to 22 foot pounds of torque. If there are any timing marks drawn on the camshaft pulleys, erase them.
Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts. Using a rubber hammer, tap each camshaft sprocket to remove any taper. Tighten the sprocket bolts finger-tight. Spin each sprocket to be sure the sprocket turns freely. Make sure there is no back and forth freeplay when the sprockets are being turned.
Install the timing belt starting with the crankshaft pulley. Route the belt to the right guide pulley (as you are facing the engine), then the right exhaust camshaft sprocket, over the top of the right intake camshaft sprocket, then under the center guide pulley, over the left intake camshaft sprocket and over the left exhaust camshaft sprocket. Make sure the timing belt is tight on the right side and loose on the left side (again, as you are facing the engine).
Install the tensioner pulley, making sure the pivot brush does not fall out. Leave it taped or use a magnet to hold it in. Torque the tensioner pulley bolt to 37 foot pounds of torque. Install the tensioner and the side plate. Be sure the pushrod end is seated properly against the tensioner pulley. Torque the side plate retaining bolts to 18 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin and let the plunger extend to its normal position.
Set the torque wrench to 89 foot pounds of torque, then put the torque wrench on the square lug of the tensioner and torque it. This applies initial tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft sprocket three times by hand. This ensures seating of the timing belt and makes sure the engine turns freely without the valves hitting the pistons. Check to be sure the crankshaft pulley timing marks are still lined up.
Torque the bolts on the left camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys to 96 foot pounds of torque. You will need to hold the sprockets to keep them from turning while torquing the bolts. Remove the timing clamp from the left side camshaft carrier. The cams should not move when removing the timing clamp. Turn the crankshaft one complete clockwise rotation and align the crankshaft pulley marks.
Repeat Step 9 for the right camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys, expect when turning the engine, turn it two complete clockwise rotations and align the crankshaft pulley marks. The flat, machined surfaces on the camshafts will be facing up on one side and facing down on the other side.
Mark the left camshaft exhaust pulley at 2 o'clock and the left camshaft intake pulley at 8 o'clock (the marks should be in line with each other) with fingernail polish or heat paint. Mark the right camshaft exhaust pulley at 10 o'clock and the right camshaft intake pulley at 4 o'clock, lining up the marks. Install all components in the reverse order of removal.
Assuming you're referring to the correct electronic release cable, open the lowest rubber cover on the left side of the camera (as you look at it from the back). Inside you'll see a little jack for the cable.
If you're referring to the old mechanical "plunger" type release, forget it. That's not going to fit onto a D80.
If there are no broken components of the slide change mechanism and it is only an adjustment problem, do the following: 1. Remove the bottom cover 2. At the front of the projector (near the elevation wheel) you will find (2) 1/4" head screws going through black rubber grommets. Loosen the screw slightly. 3. Next to the screws you will see a cutout in 2 pieces of metal that when looked at together, resemble a diamond shape. 4. With the projector on in FAN mode only (NO LAMP!), simultaneously press the reverse button on the side of the projector and with a flat-blade screwdriver inserted into the diamond-shaped slot, twist gently to move the plate the 2 screws go through up or down until you get cycling in reverse. If you go too far you will get buzzing, which will indicate that the solenoid plunger is bottomed out in the solenoid coil. Once you get acceptable reverse cycle, tighten the 2 screws gently and turn the projector right-side up. Verify the correct action in both forward & reverse cycle. Adjust further if necessary. If OK, tighten the 2 screws and re-install the bottom cover. You're done!
Hello Phickok, It sounds like the perculator may need to be replaced (The entire unit with the 'O' rings on it). As I recall the plunger is an integrated piece that cannot be replaced on the CVA-615/620 models but you may want to contact Miele technical services on this. These first generation coffee systems are very complecated to troubleshoot
yes it was true that the cap was broken. temporarily, i just cut a piece of plastic from a spoon, same thickness as the cap then place it between the plunger and the solenoid. and now my wheelwriter is typing great! all letters are clear and much black in color. thanks for pointing where the cap was place. easy to find it.