Hi, I've had this Kenwood KAC 7202 amp close a year. I disconnected it and put it away for about 2 days because my trunk latch broke. All i did was disconnect the subwoofer, power, grnd, the remote wire...(blue one) and the spkr wire that hooks to the sub...and i also disconnected the power cable from the battery...then when i decided to put it back on..the little red light wouldnt come on. so now i dont know what to do...i've tested the wires to the best of my ability and it says 12v....i also aquired a new fuse and fuse housing...dont know if that is what's making it not turn on/function properly...please help im going insane without my sub and amp:( thanks for ur time
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Re: Kenwood KAC-7202 wont turn on
I have found the problem to my Kenwood KAC-7202. The amps fan was the only thing that would come on thats it. So I started checkin zener diodes cause all transistors checked out fine. So I remember readinf about a guy that had same problem and took it to a shop and they said it was some diodes. Well, thats what I was thinkin or the transformer. It turned out that 1 zener diode was no good, diode D9 1ss133. I took a zener out of an old vcr I use for parts and put it in and the fan came on as usual then the red light. Then I hooked my mp3 player to the rca input and hooked up some speakers and it works great. Hope this helps you other guys with the same problem. Check your zener diodes with a digital volt meter, if you get any measurement other than the reverse impedance which will read between 600 and 1200 ohms some lower or higher and then reverse the leads on your meter and if you get any reading it's no good and the reading will be 0-50 cause mine read 047 ohms.
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Re: Kenwood KAC-7202 wont turn on
When your amp is something of 1000 watt it need a fuse of 25A.your amp power connection have a +12v,ground and remote.remote and +12 you must connect to your battery +.ground on your body.any amp needs a power of no less than 25A
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you might try unplugging the wires from the sub, turn it back on with the wires disconnected- if the noise comes back the amp is probably bad - if the noise doesn'tcome back -turn your head unit off and reconnect the sub- if the noise comes then your sub's voice coil could be shorted- if the noise comes back you should try a different speaker to compare- if the noise still there with the test speaker your problem is definately the amp.
If these suggestions don't help please e-mail me at Merle840@aol.com i will be glad to help. Please give me a good rating if i have been able to help you M. MERLE
Check the zener diodes over by the fuses, where the 2 chokes or load coils are. TThere are 3 or 4 Of the diodes, they are zener diodes. I had the same problem and found it to be one bad zener diode. Check my solution out on the 7202, same thing.
Nope it's not a high-to-low level converter problem, it's most likely a problem with one of two things. 1) either you've blown the output stage in the amplifier, or 2) you've hooked up your subs wrong and your amp is seeing to low of an impedance. The amp is supposed to be 1ohm stable, but we had the same problem. When the indicator light goes red it means that the amp has gone into protection mode, now you have to figure out why. If something in the amp goes bad or just disconnects from the board it will cause power protection mode. If you fry something on the board because you are running the amp to hard or at the wrong impedance it will go into thermal protection mode, however there's no simple way to figure out which has happened.
Have you tried hooking up some different subs to see if the problem remains? try this. If the problem no longer happens then you know it's your subs, if it does still happen then you'll know it's an internal problem.
Years ago I had a Kenwood KAC-821; long story short, I melted the main power wire right off of the board, everytime I turned the system up the amp would shut down.
Take you amp to an authorized dealer and have them bench test it for you.
Since you haven't received a response, I'll try to help you through the troubleshooting. The amp probably has shorted output transistors but before you start checking components, you need to 'confirm' that you have no bad connections in the power line.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage goes below ~11 volts when the amp shuts off, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
If your speakers are wired for an impedance below 4 ohms mono or 2 ohms stereo, that would make it shut off. If you have a speaker wire shorted to ground, it would also cause the amp to go into protection.
If the speakers are not the problem, it may be shutting down because the voltage at the amp is dropping too low.