This amp was pushing one Kicker svc 2 ohm CVR pretty good in mono bridged mode. Well, I bought a second sub and went to a bigger power and ground, (4 ga), and now it's blowing the right hand fuse. (as you are looking at the fuse end) I unhooked the other sub, and still doing the same. I have removed the circuit board to see anything obvious, but nothing stands out. I have a good test meter, but need help to find out what and how to check it. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like you have a shorted transistor(s). they often don't show physical damage when they go. Check each of the 3 legs of the big transistors with the power off, there are 4 on each side of the amp. Set your meter to lowest ohms range and probe between the 2 outside legs and then from each outside leg to the center leg. If you get around 0 ohms between 2 legs you probley have a bad transistor. 0 ohms between all 3 and you deffinatley have a bad transistor. Once you find a bad one all 4 should probley be replaced. If your lucky nothing else was damaged on the board. If you miss something else its likley that the new transistors will smoke. You amp is rated for minimum 2 ohms bridged
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Well you really can't run both speakers on one term. because you will over heat the amp , unless your amp is rated at twice the capability of your subs , Then if so , Try positive to one sub , then neg. to the other sub , then bridge the remaining positive to the remaining negative terminal , But it is really best to get a two channel amp for your subs !!!
First you need the OHM rating of the subs. Most of the time its on the box or the magnet on the back of the subs (normaly 2ohm 4ohm or 8ohm) And that of the amp. Most amps are 4 ohm output if its a 2channel and 2ohm output if its a mono. You NEED to know these cuz wiring it wrong can blow channels in your amp or cause it to cut "in and out"
if you bought that equipment today then your answer is yes your amp will power the subs but if i was you and you want more bass I would go with a two channel amp or even a mono block amp that will be 1 ohm stable and if you decide to do that you might want to get subs that are dual 4 ohm voice coils and run them in series that will get you 1 ohm of resistance
find the ohms on each subwoofer and how much it can handle. If you have two 4 ohm subs get a powerful MONO AMP and hook it up in parallal. If you have two 2 ohm subs get a (1 ohm stable) Powerful MONO AMP and hook it up in parallel or a powerful 2 CHANNEL AMP but the wiring can be a little complicated cause you've got to connect the subs in series and bridge it on the positive of 1 channel and the negative of 2nd channel for maximium benefit without burning out the 2 channel amp. If you got two 500 Watt subs then you got to find an amp that can put out 1000Watts anything less wont sound good and may burn out the subs because of too much distortion cause of lack of power.
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.
How you wire it depends on how hard you want drive your amp. If your woofer runs 4ohm per coil I would wile it in series (amp +to sub +1 sub -1to sub +2 amp - to sub -2) then run it for a week and see if it has enough power. the lower your Impedance (the resistance load on the amp) the harder your amp works and more THD (noise) is produced. (Dclass amps aren't know for being clean to begin with) configured like this your amp will see 8ohms and sound the clean east. if this turns out to be not enough power wire it in parallel and double the output. wire amp + to sub +1 and +2 then amp - to sub -1 and -2.
A word to the wise... start with your volume very low and work up slowly most speakers will puk up the voice coil before the amp starts to get warmed up. you would hate to have to buy a new sub.
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ