This amp was pushing one Kicker svc 2 ohm CVR pretty good in mono bridged mode. Well, I bought a second sub and went to a bigger power and ground, (4 ga), and now it's blowing the right hand fuse. (as you are looking at the fuse end) I unhooked the other sub, and still doing the same. I have removed the circuit board to see anything obvious, but nothing stands out. I have a good test meter, but need help to find out what and how to check it. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like you have a shorted transistor(s). they often don't show physical damage when they go. Check each of the 3 legs of the big transistors with the power off, there are 4 on each side of the amp. Set your meter to lowest ohms range and probe between the 2 outside legs and then from each outside leg to the center leg. If you get around 0 ohms between 2 legs you probley have a bad transistor. 0 ohms between all 3 and you deffinatley have a bad transistor. Once you find a bad one all 4 should probley be replaced. If your lucky nothing else was damaged on the board. If you miss something else its likley that the new transistors will smoke. You amp is rated for minimum 2 ohms bridged
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if you bought that equipment today then your answer is yes your amp will power the subs but if i was you and you want more bass I would go with a two channel amp or even a mono block amp that will be 1 ohm stable and if you decide to do that you might want to get subs that are dual 4 ohm voice coils and run them in series that will get you 1 ohm of resistance
find the ohms on each subwoofer and how much it can handle. If you have two 4 ohm subs get a powerful MONO AMP and hook it up in parallal. If you have two 2 ohm subs get a (1 ohm stable) Powerful MONO AMP and hook it up in parallel or a powerful 2 CHANNEL AMP but the wiring can be a little complicated cause you've got to connect the subs in series and bridge it on the positive of 1 channel and the negative of 2nd channel for maximium benefit without burning out the 2 channel amp. If you got two 500 Watt subs then you got to find an amp that can put out 1000Watts anything less wont sound good and may burn out the subs because of too much distortion cause of lack of power.
Hi mate very nice amp you got there here is the specs for it
Model: MA Audio HK401SX
Hard Kore Series 1800 Watt 1 Channel High Performance Class
X Car Amplifier
1 x 1800W RMS @ 0.5 Ohm Mono
1 x 1200W RMS
@ 1 Ohm Mono
1 x 650W RMS @
2 Ohm Mono
1 x 500W RMS @
4 Ohm Mono Fully Unregulated MOSFET Power
Supply 2 Ohm Stable @ Mono 1 Ohm Stable @ Mono 0.5 Ohm Stable @ Mono
if you have 2 12s just bridge them and you will have 650wrms at 2ohm running to them or one sub at 4 ohm 500w rms ps they should pump iam running 2 12s with just 360rms at 2ohm and they do the job good luck
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.
Rockford-Fosgate claims their latest V-power 1500bd is stable to 1 ohm, and I would think that your Oldschool would also be. The 2 wiring options for 3 subs with 2 ohm dvc would give you a 1.34 ohm load and a 3 ohm load. The 1.34 ohm option would mean more watts to the subs, but the amp will run hotter. The diagrams look like this:
Using just 2 of the Kickers, you can wire 3 different ways, with final impedances of 0.5 ohms, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms. You do not want the 0.5 ohm load. It's bad for the amp. You don't want the 8 ohm load. It doesn't allow the amp to produce as much power. So that leaves only the 2 ohm, with coils in series and subs in parallel. It looks like this:
Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa".
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ