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Re: SB-800 Stuck in REMOTE
Move up or down
to: PENCIL menu.
Move right and
down to: e Bracketing/Flash
Move right and
down to: e3: Built-in Flash
Move right and
up to: TTL
Move right to
set it to TTL.
Sorry again for
the complexity; Nikon never asked for my help. I don't reset my D200
this way. I use one of the Custom Setting Banks for remote flash, and
simply select my normal Custom Setting when I want to return to normal
ZOOM and "-" together to enter the CSM settings. That's why
you see a gray CSM marking between those two buttons.
either the + or - buttons until you see an icon that looks like a wiggly
Z shaped arrow. When you see the wiggly arrow, press MODE until it says
ZOOM and "-" together to get out of the CSM mode. Even easier,
just tap the power button to get back to normal operation. It won't turn
off if you hit it while in the CSM settings. or
can cheat and just reset the SB-800 back to its defaults by holding the
mode button and then pressing the ON/OFF button simultaneously for a couple
of seconds. You'll see the display blink and it's back to normal. This
is also marked RESET in gray on the SB-800. Of course this will lose any
other custom settings you may have changed outside of this discussion.
Goodluck, Please don't forget to rate me as fixya..
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Press the Menu button. Scroll to the Custom Setting Menu. Scroll to "e Bracketing/flash". Right arrow and scroll down to "e3 Flash cntrl for built-in flash" and push the center button. You now have access to the TTL, Manual, Repeating flash and Commander modes. Right arrow on CMD and a menu will appear that allows you to set up the built in flash and the external flash groups.
This is an excellent flash, very powerful and compact and actually more flash then what was available when the D200 first cam on the market. The two will work nicely together and I think the problem is that the SB-800 can be programmed within itself. This meaning with some cameras you program the camera for the flash output with the SB-800 you can program the flash as well. It has some excellent features like Flash value lock (which I think is set to slightly underexpose from what your question is asking) it also has Flash color information and a built in Flash compensation. Possibly the compensation or value lock are set to underexposure. I'm saying this over the camera setting because you stated that the internal flash appeared to be okay, check your SB-800 settings
You knoq the SB-800 has a slave mode called SU-4 in the menu. It activates remote flash. When your on camera flash fires so will the slave flash. The slave flash will need to be able to "see" the light from the on-camrea flash to work.
To access the SU-4 remote mode hold the "SEL" button in for a few seconds until the menu appears. Scroll down to the SU-4 setting and turn it on.
When using this method set the flash to manual and set the power as needed.
Hi Frank, I use the same combination of the exact three flashguns you have. Works beautifully. I mount the sb-800 on my camera and set it to Master Mode (press and hold the center button till the menu comes up, select the master). Set the other two sb600s as slave. Please make sure the channel is set the same in all three flashes... when positioning the slave flashes, make sure that sensors on the remote will recieve the light from the main flash. For maximum coverage I use the sb-800 with a diffuser in bounce mode. You will be amazed at the quality of interior phots you can get with a 3 flash combo.
1) i-TTL: TTL flash control by 1,005-pixel RGB sensor, built-in flash, SB-800, SB-600, SB-400: i-TTL balanced fill-flash and standard i-TTL flash 2) AA (Auto Aperture-type) flash: Available with SB-800 used with CPU lens 3) Non-TTL Auto: Available with Speedlights such as SB-800, 28, 27, and 22S 4) Range-priority manual flash; available with SB-800
Bingo! That's an X-sync cable, only for firing the flash, syncing it withe shutter - carries out no auto features or communication with the camera.
Don't waste your money on another cable the same. There is no TTL light measuring features with an X-sync cable.
You can, however, get the proper 'off-the-camera' TTL syncing cable either from Nikon or a 3rd party provider. This proper TTL cable can cost a fair bit, I don't know exactly but thinking from $40-$50 to $80'odd.
Shop around, buy from a store where you have the face-to-face enquiry and a return facility if 'they' get it wrong.
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