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Hello, yes this saw can be adjusted.
To calibrate the table, use a framing square up against the rear fence and see how the blade tracks. To adjust this: loosen the bolts holding the rear fence down and move the fence until it is square with the blade track and tighten.
To adjust the bevel: use a speed square to check for 90deg and 45deg on the blade. Using the 13mm bolts found at the pivot point on the trunnion you can adjust the 90 and 45 degree angles.
with the tool unplugged from power . u need a good square drop the blade down to cutting position place thesquare against the fence then slide it up to the teeth on the blade making sure u are against the teeth . if not square in the zero position on the scale undo the fixing bolts for the fence and adjust till the square shows no gap between fence and blade teeth . retighten bolts and check . plug in and make a cut . or u could just make cuts and move fence till get it right . i should add with straight edge make sure the fence itself is straight across its face. with one piece fences they can get bent. good luck.
I have been in the same situation in the past, with a mastercraft miter saw to a point of using playing cards to get that nice tight miter joint. placing the cards between the fence and the piece i was trying to miter.Rioby makes mastercraft all thought they are a good saw they have their limits to the precisions of their cuts. good for fences,decks, stuctural framing ect, were a degree two is not a big thing,but when making furniture or interior trim work or picture frames or hobby craft you need to buy a good pro saw like a dewalt or bosh sliding compoud miter saw they may cost more **** their worth the money they are very precise and will last a life time if taken care of .It will be worth the money when you get that perfect cut every time you use it,it will put the JOY and fun back in your projects and not to mention qualaty in your master pieces.
Make sure the miter is lined up at 90 degrees to the blade. The fence has to be parallel to the blade and the blade tight. Cuts should be straight if the piece is held firmly and you move at the proper speed. Good luck!
i use a framing square off of the back fence with the blade down. when it is square, i check the other side of the fence and loosen the screws on the plate with the degree increments and set it to zero
Make all cuts with molding flat on the table and bevel at 33.8 for ALL cuts ...to cut left inside corner, set miter at 31.6 degrees right. top of molding against the fence left side is finished piece... right inside corner set miter at 31.6 left with bottom of molding against the fence.left side is finished piece...left outside corner same setting, bottom of molding against fence right side is finished piece...right outside corner set miter at 31.6 right with top of molding against fence. right side is finished piece. hope this helps
ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence.
You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.