Question about Amana Easy Reach AFD2535DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Amana ice-maker The ice-maker is no longer making ice. I pulled out the fridge and the tube that leads to the ice maker was disconnected. (I'm wondering why this has happened - what would cause it to pop off?) I reattached the tube and now the water is not getting through - there seems to be a blockage. I tried unplugging the fridge for 2 hours - then put the hair dryer to the area (in case there was ice blocking the tube?) but to no avail - the water still isn't getting through. I don't know how to remove the ice-maker to see if there is a frozen tube. Please help me, damsel in distress, deborah

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  • Rlucky Mar 08, 2008

    ice maker no longer works ? flipped lever but still no ice any sugesstions

  • irish69 Mar 10, 2008

    ice maker was working, then stopped. found formation of ice down back of freezer and ** ice cubes. everything is connected correctly. how do you defrost the line inside the freezer????

  • Anonymous Apr 29, 2008

    have an amana model arb1917cw and the ice maker is not working properly. Have turned it off for 6 hours and then turned it back on and nothing. The line seems to be fine. Also, I do not see any ice build up at all. miriam black

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Very curious. When you say the tube to the ice maker was disconnected I am unsure as to which tube you are refering to. However hopefully a few pointers might help a damsel. Most units have the water supply enter into the cabinet through a two way water solenoid valve (i.e. one for chilled water one for the ice maker). It then normally enters the top of the freezer section for the ice maker. It then drops down inside the freezer section to the icemaker module. Therefore the only control over the water for the icemaker is the solenoid valve which is controlled by the icemaker "module". A trick is to switch the control at the solenoid valve so that you can use the chilled water dispenser to check if the water valve for the icemaker is working. If it is then you probably have a problem with the icemaker module or the temperature in the freezer section (which you would probably have noticed if that was the case). If you have a problem with the module then you normally have to replace the module as they dont like supplying spares for modules.
Anyway hope this is of some help and good luck.

ps model is normally near the salad drawer or top of the fridge section dependent on brand.

Posted on Feb 08, 2008

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Tarena, it's been my experience with Amana that tells me you have a failed water inlet valve.

Here's how it works; Water comes from the wall into the fridge to the valve I'm talking about. Now this valve works like this... When you put a cup in the dispenser area to get cold water a switch sends 120 volts to the valve and it opens up allowing water to flow through it. When you remove the cup, power is shut off at the valve... the valve is supposed to close all the way, if it didn't there would be water dripping from the dispenser area, right? (Like a leaky faucet) If the valve is bad, it won't open at all. (Like a blown out light bulb)

The ice maker is similar. When it "harvests" ice and it drops into the ice bin, the IM will send 120 volts to the valve (for 5 seconds or so) to re-fill the ice mold so it can make another batch. Now when the power is removed from the valve, it's supposed to shut off all the way. If it didn't, there would be water dripping into the ice maker fill tube (in the freezer behind the ice maker). drip, drip drip... one after the other.

Let's assume that the ice maker valve didn't close all the way. What would happen then? As these drops of water enter the freezer compartment and are heading down the ice maker fill tube toward the ice maker, they don't make it all the way 'cause they FREEZE in the tube! One drop at a time, week after week. ('course you never notice it, 'cause it's in the freezer) Now... the ice maker is still trying to make ice, so every 45 minutes or so it sends 120 volts to the valve to get more water. But the water fill tube has ice in it because of the water drops that have accumulated there. This goes on over time and eventually the water fill tube becomes completely BLOCKED with ice due to those water drops.

Now what happens? The ice maker is still trying to make ice, but the fill tube is blocked... it can't get water through it. But when the water valve opens up to allow water to the ice maker, where does it go? Since the fill tube is blocked, all that water pressure builds up in the water line (tube) that feeds the ice maker and eventually it blows out! (you can verify this... pull the refrigerator out from the wall, look at the water line going to the ice maker. There's a connector back there for the tube to fit into. This is what's blown out.) Now the tube is just dangling there and not hooked up to the ice maker any longer. Since the ice maker is still running, every time it asks for water it sprays out and onto the wall and floor back there through this dangling tube.

The repair? Replace the valve. It's easy. The part number is 67005154 and it lists for about $21.00. You can find one at any appliance parts retailer. (you'll see where the valve is located... it's where the water line hooks up behind the fridge.) UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE WHILE YOU WORK ON IT!!!

Just replacing the valve is only half the job. You'll still need to remove the ice build up in the ice maker fill tube. Do this by pulling it straight out the back of the refrigerator and putting it under warm running water. Then re-install it and hook the water tube back up to it.

On some models, you can not remove the fill tube. If you can't get it out the back, you'll have to do it from the freezer compartment behind the ice maker (a little more work, but still do-able). It's easiest by removing the ice maker.... pull the ice bin out and set it aside. Then remove the 3 screws holding the ice maker. You don't have to disconnect the wires, just try to get it out of your way the best you can. Now take a hair dryer and thaw out the fill tube until the ice slides out of there. Then rebuild it.

There ya go! Job time? about an hour. Part cost? about $21.00. Knowing that you fixed it yourself? Priceless.

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