Question about Whirlpool GGW9200L Gas Dryer

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The dryer runs by does not ignite.

The gas gets to the gas valve and the first coil clicks but the second coil never clicks. I have replaced and tested new and old coils they are fine. I have replaced all fuses, sensors and igniter. I just can't get gas to the igniter. It worked fine, then intermittent, and now not at all. Any help? My next thought is the electronic control assembly.

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  • ndn49r Feb 18, 2008

    everything runs on the dryer. I have checked and rechecked the harness but can't find anything wrong. The harness has no nicks or rubs that would short it out. The only issue is the second solenoid on the gas valve does not click releasing the gas to ignite. The drum turns and the wires are connected tightly.
    Thanks

  • ndn49r Feb 19, 2008

    Checked both sensors and replaced even though they checked fine.
    I even replaced the 'board' because of previous issues about a year ago that resolved itself somehow. I still can't get the second solenoid to release the gas.

  • ndn49r Feb 20, 2008

    The first and second solenoid on the gas valve connect about 8" away from a Y harness. The wire harness then runs back to the board. The the Y harness has continuity to the both solenoids. I have not checked the main harness from the board to the connection at the Y. I will do so. The harness has no nicks or blemishes so I never checked it for continuity based on appearance.

  • mdewey Feb 17, 2009

    GGW9200L will start but the gas burner will not lite

  • ndn49r Sep 02, 2009

    I give up on this issue but now I am back at it.
    Can you tell me what setting to put on the voltage meter to check for voltage across the second solenoid?

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Kindly check all wirings to and from the igniter assembly. does the drum turns?

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • francis rivero Feb 19, 2008

    kandly check all safety sensors, overtemperature sensors, they should have continuity. they are located on the air duct, or supply duct sometimes it is only one , sometimes two.

  • francis rivero Feb 20, 2008

    you can trace the wires that goes to that second solenoid and find out where it goes then you can trace if it is being cut off by some thing or the board itself is not giving the power to turn it on.

  • francis rivero Feb 21, 2008

    after you checked with continuity, can you check for voltage readings accross the terminals of the second solenoid without jeopardizing your safety? ( be carefull )

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Hello there:
Here is some helpful advice for you to check out first ok
Hope that al of this is very helpful for you
Best regards Richard

Most likely your gas valve has a defective solenoid. You can verify this by visually looking at the glow coils operation.
The first click you hear will ignite the glow coil. If the glow coil does glow a very bright yellow white color, that solenoid is working. If the glow coil fails to light, replace that part only. <Use caution-glow coils are not cheap and break easily.>

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Carefully, remove and replace them with the new ones. <They only fit on the steel rod one way.> Replace the gas valve assembly, attach the quick disconnect wire clips and soap test the gasline nut you unconnected.

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Glow coil's cost about $50.00.
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Most likely your gas valve has a defective solenoid. You can verify this by visually looking at the glow coils operation.

The first click you hear will ignite the glow coil. If the glow coil does glow a very bright yellow white color, that solenoid is working. If the glow coil fails to light, replace that part only. <Use caution-glow coils are not cheap and break easily.>

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The solenoids are located on the top of the gas valve and are black plastic coated spool looking items. They are held in place by a retaining plate.

Carefully, remove and replace them with the new ones. <They only fit on the steel rod one way.> Replace the gas valve assembly, attach the quick disconnect wire clips and soap test the gasline nut you unconnected.

If the soap test proves there isn't any gas leaks, fire up the dryer and your done.

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