My Asko T761 had the same problem, power button lights up but the LCD panel if off. This is not the fuse becuase I replaced with "new fuse replacement kit" provide by Asko but this did not solve my problem. All I needed to do was press the "reset button".
There is a reset/ overheat button on the back of the dryer (push the black rubber plug in the middle of the back of the dryer) till you hear a "CLICK". The reset "POPS" if the dryer is getting too hot. Ck the lint screen, is it clean, try running the dryer without the vent pipe on back hooked up(for 1 load as a test) , (to see if it'll shut off) if it runs ok and doesn't blow the reset again, it means you have buildup of lint or a restriction it the outlet pipe.
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Based on your description I`d be curious if you have checked the wiring diagram on your Asko dryer, it is a T760 correct ? The reason I'm inquiring to this is I have a diagram but there is no mention of these ST4-1 and ST4-2, though my experience would suggest they are located on the board for the "safety thermostat" (ST) and it would simply be to by-pass the safety to rule it out of the crcuit.
I don't know what other actions you may have taken to check the element, but there is a way to physically check the heating coils, though it requires removing the back panel but I have a service manual I could provide you or guide you how to.
Keep me posted on what you find or if you want the servie manual (which I'd have to provide email and would need an email address...it's your call) I'll help in whatever manner I can. Good luck.
If it there is power in the system (red light on power swithch),yet the dryer does not run - with a totally blank LED screen (no error message), the controller board may be out. You can snap in a new one (remove the top of the dryer, take picture to make sure you know where the wires go) remove from clips n replace. Only thing, it'll cost you $220 to buy a new one. Try repairclinic.com - if it doesn't work you can return for full refund.
I have replaced the drive belt and rollers, to replace front support rollers you need to take drum out to gain access to them. the part that takes the longest is removing rear panel, the 4 screws around the drum bearing and the screws that hold heating element to the rear panel. Then you can rotate rear panel out of the way, having a small stool or chair for it to sit on makes it a whole lot easier. With this out of the way you can remove drive bely from drum and lift it out of the way. The rubber rollers sre held in by bolts with nylon nuts on the front, be careful when taking out the bolts that you don't knock the nut out of its holder, if this happens you will need to remove the screws around the inner door opening to be able to put the left side one back in. I had the dryer laying on it door to remove the drum an belt, then placed it in the normal position to change the rollers.
Hope this helps, took about 45 minuetes, I'm not a appliance tech.
Remove bottom panel. The condenser unit is on the left side. Open the section by undoing the clips, and look inside the little "cage". That's the sensor. Remove any lint using a toothpick and you should be good to go!
you have either a frequency related issue or there is a lot of t.h.d. total harmonic distortion on the line, this will raise cane with electronics, I would try a power line conditioner on the dryer power circuit