Won't give me water anymore, still get ice and all the rest

replace the water fill solinoid also make sure the water vave is open

check filter and screen at water cylinoid valve

Well the ice maker itself is what calls for water. It probably is fried. The way it works is the ice maker basically sits in the freezer and waits until the ice mold reaches 28f. When it gets to 28f the ice mold thermostat closes the electrical circuit to the heater and the motor. The motor basically stalls out because the heater hogs all the power. As the ice loosens the motor does not need as much power and manages to move the ice till you hear a CLICK and that is what kills the power to the heater and the resulting surge moves the ice on around at an astounding snail pace not unlike watching grass grow. At near the end the water valve gets energized by a probe rubbing against a copper plate located behind the main drive gear. over time it gets to where the arcing sticks the probe to the plate and instyead of 7 seconds of fill time it fills for 25 or more seconds or just smokes up the puppy and burns the tip of the probe.

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Probably water Inlet Valve is bad and needs replacing.

Ice maker - don't work anymore. Ice cubes are small and wet. Water running down the sides of the freezer. Water in ice maker won't freeze.

if it keeps filling and overflowing you have a bad water valve on the back of the fridge.the part number is WR57X10027 and the valve is around 75 dollars.first thing lift the arm or shut off the ice maker so it won't leak anymore,you're missing a few letters off of the model number so when you call your parts store give them the full model number,open the fridge door,look up on the right hand side wall up near the ceiling and give them the model number to make sure you get the correct valve,shut off the water supply to the fridge,then have the new valve next to the old valve when you remove a water line from the old valve just connect it to the new valve,do this until everything is changed out and the new valve is in place,turn on the water supply and you can check the ice maker to make sure it doesn't overflow.you can manually start the ice maker by grabbing the plastic arms of the ice maker and pull them forwards slowly until the arms start to advance on their own,you'll hear the water valve fill the ice maker and then you can watch it fill to see if the water is filling it correctly and i'm sure you'll be fine with the new water valve installed

I know of one trick that might solve your problem . First , make sure the lever that swings up and down during cycle is all the way down . Then , pour one eight ounce cup of water into the ice maker where the slots are . Hopefully , when the water freezes , the ice maker's sensor will detect the ice and start the dump cycle . If it does , and everything is OK inside the unit itself , it should be OK after it ejects the ice .

Either the inlet valve is stuck or the icemaker solenoid is shored.

Most likely the second one.


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Your automatic defrost system is not working which is the indication of the frost on the back wall. When the freezer does not come down to temperature it also affects the ice maker. This kind of problem is from a bad timer, defrost heaters or defrost thermostat. I do not think you want to tackle this problem yourself. Call a service man from an appliance store that handles your product and give him the same information you gave here with the exception of the removal of the frost on the back wall.

Are you able to see if you can push a Q-tip or something up the fill tube line to see if it's frozen up inside there. It happens on certain units. You may need to take the Ice Maker out (easy) to get to the fill tube.