Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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Parts question Are the fuses, Heating element and Thermostat common enough that I can purchase them locally?. I have an appliance repair place close by. Can you supply me with pasrt numbers or discrtion of these parts? I appreciated your help. I would like to get them today, so they will be handy tomorrow when I work on the unit. Thank you Gilbert Justiniano Sr.

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  • Anonymous Feb 11, 2008

    I need to identify this model Kenmore Dryer. I checked the machine inside

    and out and could not find the model #. What I do know is that it is 10 years old and it's called "Ultra Fabric Care". It's 220V electric dryer. I

    want to purchase the manual so can identify the parts I need.

    Thank You

    Gil Justiniano

×

1 Answer

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The short answer probably. That model # doesn't appear to be complete. Can you recheck it?

Posted on Feb 08, 2008

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Whirlpool electric dryer high thermostat replacement


test all this steps in according with your model, electric or gas. God bless you


Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.


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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner assembly. If the dryer doesn't heat one or more of the solenoids may be defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame doesn't light, replace these coils as a set.


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Dryer Igniter

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


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Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element should be checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Flame Sensor

Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


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High Limit Thermostat

Although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn't heat.


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Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn't heat it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


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Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer doesn't heat. Check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is defective.


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Timer

The timer is normally not at fault if the dryer doesn't heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer.

Jul 21, 2013 | Dryers

Tip

Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right


If you go to use your Electric Iron and it does not work you may be wondering what could have gone wrong. Actually there are only a few things that can go wrong with this handy little appliance.

The first thing to check is to make sure that you actually have electric power getting to the steam iron. Many times the problem is simply caused by a tripped circuit breaker, a faulty outlet, a worn or broken plug on the end of the cord, or in some cases, a fuse that is in the plug. Another common problem is for the cord of the clothing iron to break at the point where it enters the handle of the iron. By checking that you have power actually getting to the internal parts of the electric iron, you eliminate one set of common problems.

Next you need to check that the power is getting to the heating element. For the power to get to the heating elements of the iron it needs to go through the power switch and the thermostat. On some irons the power switch will be included in the iron thermostat and on others the on/off switch will be a separate switch. In either case you will need to make sure that there is continuity, or the ability for the power to flow through the switch and thermostat to get to the heating part of the iron. The thermostat is just an on/off switch that works on the temperature of the base of the iron. So whenever the iron is cold the thermostat should be closed, allowing the power to flow through it.

If the power can get to the heating element of the iron, then it should get hot. If it is not, then the heating part has failed. Sometimes, when this happens it will short out and cause the fuse to blow or the circuit breaker to trip. Many times though, the element will just simply burn out or break so that the circuit is open and the electricity cannot flow through to make the element produce heat.

If your iron is getting too hot or not hot enough then the problem will almost always be in the thermostat. Sometimes it may be a simple thermostat calibration problem, but it also can be that the thermostat simply will not work properly anymore.

This should give you a basic troubleshooting guide for home electric irons and steam irons. As you can see, there are not many parts that can fail and troubleshooting the few parts that can fail, is relatively simple with a basic electric meter.

on Jul 14, 2010 | Irons

1 Answer

I have a 4045 model iron, extremely happy with it. Recently, when I plug in the iron the light goes on but it does not heat up at all. Any way to fix it or is it busted. Suggestions would be appreciated.



Hi,

Heatman101 posted this on the site......

"If you go to use your Electric Iron and it does not work you may be wondering what could have gone wrong. Actually there are only a few things that can go wrong with this handy little appliance.

The first thing to check is to make sure that you actually have electric power getting to the steam iron. Many times the problem is simply caused by a tripped circuit breaker, a faulty outlet, a worn or broken plug on the end of the cord, or in some cases, a fuse that is in the plug. Another common problem is for the cord of the clothing iron to break at the point where it enters the handle of the iron. By checking that you have power actually getting to the internal parts of the electric iron, you eliminate one set of common problems.

Next you need to check that the power is getting to the heating element. For the power to get to the heating elements of the iron it needs to go through the power switch and the thermostat. On some irons the power switch will be included in the iron thermostat and on others the on/off switch will be a separate switch. In either case you will need to make sure that there is continuity, or the ability for the power to flow through the switch and thermostat to get to the heating part of the iron. The thermostat is just an on/off switch that works on the temperature of the base of the iron. So whenever the iron is cold the thermostat should be closed, allowing the power to flow through it.

If the power can get to the heating element of the iron, then it should get hot. If it is not, then the heating part has failed. Sometimes, when this happens it will short out and cause the fuse to blow or the circuit breaker to trip. Many times though, the element will just simply burn out or break so that the circuit is open and the electricity cannot flow through to make the element produce heat.

If your iron is getting too hot or not hot enough then the problem will almost always be in the thermostat. Sometimes it may be a simple thermostat calibration problem, but it also can be that the thermostat simply will not work properly anymore.

This should give you a basic troubleshooting guide for home electric irons and steam irons. As you can see, there are not many parts that can fail and troubleshooting the few parts that can fail, is relatively simple with a basic electric meter."

Sounds like either power isn't getting to the heating element, or the element is bad.

Good Luck

--HomeGrown

Dec 29, 2010 | Sunbeam Euro Press 4045 Iron

1 Answer

I was not getting heat in my electric dryer, i replaced the heating element, it worked for a few minutes, then i lost heat again


If you've already replaced the heating element, you need to check the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO). The TCO works in conjunction with the Hi-Limit Thermostat to regulate and protect the heating element. Both of these components are mounted on the outside of the heater box. The TCO is located at the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The following link explains how to troubleshoot these components and what the resistance readings should be:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If the TCO is found to be defective, it is recommended you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat as well. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of any parts you replace. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, you can use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These components are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you verify the power at the wall receptacle before you begin. If you are missing half your input voltage (due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord), the dryer may still run, but won't heat.

Feb 25, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

4 Answers

Electric dryer doesn't heat.


Probably a bad heating element. There are a few different styles, you'll just need to lookup your model number on an appliance parts website, find the right part, and then do a quick search on replacement. There are probably ten or fifteen websites that have instructions to replace heating elements.

Here's one where you can buy the part, the element is part number 17.

http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/whirlpool-parts/Whirlpool-Dryer-Parts/Whirlpool-Parts-LER3624EQ1/Whirlpool-Parts-81777.cfm

Jan 15, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer does not get hot, only cold air


Parts that can cause no heat are thermal fuse, heating element, thermostat and electronic control.


The thermal fuse can be tested using a multimeter. The multimeter set on Ohms, at Rx1 must be used on element contacts, to read impedance. If the fuse is good, it will read zero or low impedance.
he heating element is tested in the same way, only the element contacts must be disconnected before reading impdance.
To test thermostat better removing parts from the appliance, after disconnecting power. To test element you will need to at least disconnect its wiring.
If the element is good it must return some impedance that is not infinity. If the element returns open (infinity), then element is bad.
Same for the thermostat, only difference the thermostat must return low or no impedance (zero) at room. If impedance stays infinite (open), then the thermostat is faulty.
If the machine has separate thermostat and high limit (they are same thing on dryers), both thermostats must be tested.
If there is some cooling, but cooling is poor, check also lint filter, air duct and fan.

All testing and repair must be done by a trained person.

To get a technician or to find parts contact the number listed on the user manual.

Dec 17, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not heating I had the heating element checked--it is good


There's more to the heating circuitry than the heating element. If the element is good, more than likely the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) has blown. This component acts as a fuse in an overheat condition to protect the heating element. There are two components located on the outside of the heater box of the heating element. The one at the opposite ned of the heating element terminals is the TCO, the one closest to the terminals is the Hi-Limit Thermostat. To check either of these components, disconnect the wire leads and remove from the heater box. Take a resistance check across the component terminals and you should get a reading of zero ohms (or something close to it). If either component is bad, you must replace BOTH of them. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. These two components are sold as a set and can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number is 279816. The average cost is about $20. Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. If you do not wish to order on line, take the part nukber provided to your nearest appliance parts retailer. This is a common replacement item they should have in their in-store inventory.

The first three sites on the list also offer excellent exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating components. The TCO (with Hi-Limit Thermostat) is listed as item 9 under the "Bulkhead" parts section.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: If the TCO blows, it usually blows for a reason. Most commonly, this is caused by the dryer exhaust vent becoming clogged. It is adviseable to inspect the entire length of the exhaust vent ducting and dryer interior to ensure you have no clogs anywhere. Failure to do so will result in repeated failures of the heating circuit and it is a fire hazard.

Also make sure the vent hose is not kinked or crushed. It is recommended that you use the semi-rigid metal type exhaust vent ducting as it resists kinking, crushing, rodent infestation and heat. Make sure the exhaust vent is at least 12 inches from the ground. If you have any type of protective cover on the exhaust, make sure it is of the louvered variety. Do not place screens on the vent as it will collect lint and become clogged.

Nov 17, 2009 | Maytag MED5600TQ Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Does not heat


heating element is out...there are usually 2.....get em at lowes

Nov 03, 2009 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

2 Answers

Electric Clothes Dryer Problem


if the dryer worked fine before with the element not staying on when you open the door, etc, then what you have done is a very common mistake to make, you must have dislodged a wire off, or maybe placed one back in the wrong place, its a very easy error to make, which is why when removing parts for repair on any appliance you must make very detailed notes, better still take digital photographs with a digital camera double check any wires etc, don't worry i am a retired appliance engineer and even we can make this mistake

Sep 29, 2007 | Dryers

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