Question about Toshiba 55H70 55" Rear Projection Television

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How do I get inside the cabinet to check solder joints....

Color goes to black and white for about 25 seconds....happens about once an hour sometimes more sometimes less.....can you tell me something to look for to solve this problem. Thanks Bob

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  • Bob0399 Feb 09, 2008

    Thanks for the info...I will try that as soon as I can. Appreciate your help. Bob


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See the back side of the cabinet for main screws, open them to get inside the cabinet
there you can find the main curcit board.. there look for bad solder joints

good luck

Posted on Feb 08, 2008

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TV turns off or gose black then come back on

This is typical with many sets when it goes old as there is a high possibility that the components over a period of heating and cooling , tend to bring on a problem of dry soldering. So my advice is to check the set for some loose joints that have played on to give you these erratic shut downs.

Remove main plug, the covers - with caution of high voltage, check for dry joints, use a good soldering iron to solder all suspected points. Please remove the SMPS and check as it can have poor solder joints. Look for bloated capacitor in the circuit.If seen replace and check.

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There is a loose contact somewhere in the color circuitry of your TV. Specially where the color oscillator is or it could the 3.58 Mhz Crystal that is defective.
A cold/crystalized solder joint will cause this failure too.

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I have a Mitsubishi WS 55908 and is has lost its ability to show the color green. What could be the problem?

Hi jazz836,
You're unit has three color gun inside, the red/blue/green gun, since you haven't a green color, green gun is dead. This is caused by faulty resistor, tube, transistor, bad solder joints. If you have necessary tools and test instrument look first for bad solder joints in the neck board, re-solder all cold/dry joints, unplug then re-insert all cable connected. Test the parts in that board and also the tube.
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You have some bad solder joints in the set. Located in the area of the video IC. I would resolder all the connections on the board. You can locate the board by taking the back off with the power disconnected of course. The board on the left should be the small signal board. Using caution remove the board and resolder all the connections on the board, or you could order a new board from and just replace it. Either way it should solve your problem.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.


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I have a 3 or 4 year old rca hd52w59 the screen is blurry convergence is off.Convergence options are in the menu but the auto converge starts then the screen goes either red or green then it stops.I go...


Thanks for using FixYa. This issue is related to power supply, the processor detects a fault and the TV shows the blinking codes. It is a fault monitoring technique developed for TV's. You must unplug the power cord for 4 hours, and then try again. This will sometimes correct the problem.

Secondly, try the whack/vibration check. This will sometimes get an errant connection or cold solder joint to reactivate. Just smack the set vigorously in various places around the cabinet with your hand or fist in search of the magic touch!

However, if you need permanent solution then you'll need to disassemble the TV and look for swollen capacitors; loose wire connection and bad/cold solder joints. Also check for burnt components on the board. You will require replacing the components and/or connectors inside the TV.

Before replacing the power supply I will suggest you to check for swollen capacitors and/or burnt components on the power supply board of your TV.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.



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sure sounds like loose solder joints, look for them in the deflection circuit, just find the hard plastic encapsulated body with the thick red wire sticking out of it thats where usually the loose solder joints develop.

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on a low signal input to the set the first thing you loose is the color, then it goes snowy and then just snowwhite in a snow storm or all blue with no sound.

check your cables for no shorts and loose connections,
sometimes the color killer control inside the set in the color circuit has to be tweaked alittle.

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there should be a soldered in fuse in the convergence IC input chain, usually fairly close, if there is an inductor coil in the chain, look for the fuse just upstream of that. Each IC will have a fuse, they look like resistors, but are usually solid color, white, light blue, or light green. Check those for opens.

If you find an open, you can bridge it with a fuse of similar load capability, just to see if the set will power up. If the fuse blows again, look for solder bridges in the IC joints. I know you were careful, but it's really easy to get a bridge, or perhaps overflow the solder to another trace on the board.

In lots of cases, when the IC goes, it takes the fuse with it, and you don't find out until you try to power it up.

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Cold solder joint somewhere. What's your HU? If S, then the chrominance pin may be broken off, leaving only the luminance pin. Replace the S patchcord.

If component, both Pb and Pr would have to be intermittent for there to be only b/w.

Mr Bob

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