3 amps 2 subs sound system for car, need wiring help
I need some help big time,this is the situation.
an alpine head unit with 3 pre amp outs
2 hifonics bxi2006d amps, (650rm at 4hms, 1300rms at 2ohms, )
1 alpine 4channel amp mr450(40wx4 at 4ohms i think)
2 hifonics olympus subs, 2ohm dual voice coil, 1600w rms each
i want the first hifonics amp to run at 2ohms 1300w rms to the sub
and the other hifonics amp to run at 2ohms 1300w rms to the sub,
and i want them to share a 3 farad capacitor but i want to each amp to individually run each sub
i want the alpine amp to run alpine type r speakers and a couple of alpine tweeters at 4 ohms,
also, i am told i will need 1 gauge power and ground cable, so how can get power to the amplifiers with the same power wire but run individually to the components, and to all switch on by using one remote wire from the deck for all 3 amps
i would also like to wire circuit breaker at the car battery
Re: 3 amps 2 subs sound system for car, need wiring help
All you have to do is run the power wire from your battery to your capacitor and then connect both sub amps to the capacitor. Run a secondary power wire to the Alpine amp from the battery to that amp. So two power wires, probably 4 gauge for alpine amp and 2 or 0 gauge for Hifonics. Remember to put a fuse or breaker no more then 18" from battery for each power wire. Count the fuses on the amp per say 4 30 watt fuses is 120 X 2 for 240 Amp fuse at battery and maybe set 10% lower but no more then 5% higher then for alpine amp do the same. So just in case you have a surge in the amp set up then all three are covered.
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Re: 3 amps 2 subs sound system for car, need wiring help
As i read your problem i can recommend you that connecting each of the hifonics amp to each hifonics sub with the same specs by getting the specs in interfacing the two or you can simply look to the output of the amp and the input of the sub and find a suitable plug that fits to them.
In the case if you want to run each hamp to individually run each sub but sharing 3 farad capacitor: what i can suggest is that you connect in parallel one connecting wire of each input or ouput of the amp or sub. Its like connecting a connector from each of the input or output of the amp or sub to one leg of the capacitor, and connecting two wires to the other leg, one is being connected to the amp or sub and the other wire is connected to the other amp or sub.
In the case of putting a circuit breaker at the car battery: what i can suggest is that you find an appropriate circuit breaker that fits the specs of the car battery then connect it in series on the positive supply or read the specs of the circuit breaker before you connect it to the battery. Having a circuit breaker is like having a fuse but with special advantages in favor of the circuit breaker.
In the case of having power to the amps you can run one power wire to the amps by dividing the power wire into two, one connected to the amp and the other wire to the other amp. Then you can connect each amp and sub in series individually by connecting one wire b/w amp and sub. I hope i solved your problem
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Hi, what you want to do is just connect the speaker wires from the head unit straight across to the pre-amp inputs of the amp. If you have a sub, also connect the pre-amp outputs of the head unit to the 2 sub inputs of the amp. Connect the blue wire of the head unit to the turn-on terminal of the amp and connect power wires to both units. May I ask what speakers are you using?
Hi there, This amp should run comfortable at 2 ohms/channel. However, your dual voice coil subs are rated at 4 ohms. This means when you connect the 2 voice coils together in parellel (positive to positive and negative to negative both coils wired to one output) the amp will see 2 ohms. So if you connect both subs to one output then your amp will see 1 ohm (not good) If you run the voice coils in parellel but the subs in series then the 2 resistances (ohms) will be added together. So that way the amp will se 4 ohms. This is fine but the amp would push more power into 2 ohms. You can run one sub on each channel if you can split the head unit output to 2 outputs, problem is then you will be halving the amount of power to each channel. Personally I would probably be more inclined to run 1 sub on this amp and run another amp from the pre-outs on the first amp for the 2nd sub. Try to find another amp the same to run the second sub. Mind you, 2 of these amps will need some big power cable to run them but should shake your teeth out! Hope this helps
Sorry,after rereading your problem,I gave a wrong answer.Do you have the deck sub RCA pre-amps connected to the amp,then the wires from the amp to the sub?If you do,you need to check what the sub and amp are rated as such as,peak or rms.They are 2 completely different meanings.Greg
The CDE-9843 cannot drive a sub of the type you mention without an amp, but you can fit a sub with it's own built-in amp.
As standard, the head unit has a basic in-built amp supplying 4 x 16w RMS at 4ohms but there is the facility via the unit's own menu to turn off the in built amp and use the output sockets as a pre-amp feed, but in reality if you want to drive an amp you'd be better off to start with a more highly specified head unit to begin with, even the next model up, the CDE-9845 is better suited as there are pre-outs for front and rear speakers.
You need to run the RCA cables from the head unit to the sub for the audio signal, and possibly a turn on wire (the blue one on the back of the head unit), unless the sub has an automatic power feature.
The sub also needs power and ground wires attached, but those do not connect to the head unit. Power should be run directly from the battery with an inline fuse, and ground should go to the nearest good ground point (Trunk latch, seat bolt, etc).
Hello, First of all with these new Alpine amps everithing adjustable just about is digital, as well as the internal workings of the amp to a point. If you bought this amp new then check your warranty or take it back where you purchased it if you can. Check that your amp is getting an input signal from your head unit. Check your head unit sub output settings, something could have gotten turned off or down. On this paticular amp if there is a problem internaly it would let you know or go into protection mode. You say your sub has ben tested and is good, check again. Hook another speaker up to the amp. Unhook that speaker and try, you never know. Like I said, if the amp is'nt going into protect mode and the digital display is'nt telling you any types of faults then it has to be the input signal. Make sure you are getting a signal. That has to be your problem otherwise amp would be in protect mode. Let me know what you find.
He may be right! You might try finding a new source of contact for your ground cause it may not be sufficent enough to ground to, also make sure that no wires from the back of your radio have any wires sticking out touching other interfering things that could possibly be causing the noise
Connect the 2 gage to the battery thru at least s 50 amp fuse, then connect the capacitor in line before the amps. Then run the 2 gage to a connector/splitter block and run 4 gage leads to each amp. You also will need at least 4 gage ground leads from each amp to a body grounded bolt or screw. You need to run a quality set of speaker leads from the head unit to the amps. The speakers will need separate leads from the amp to each speaker.You will need to try some different combinations to get the sound and bass you want. You want to be able to fade from front to rear and control everything thru the head unit. Use a hole saw to cut a 2 to 3 inch diameter hole in the side of the speaker box for a port to get a better punch from the sub. Hope this helps some....