Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
I suspect that my heating element may be out but I can't figure out where it is in the back of the dryer. I cleaned the lint out of the vent hose to make sure its not clogged and I flipped the circuit breakers in my panel to make sure the wasn't the problem. I opened up the back of the dryer, but all I see are a few wires. I don't have any sort of ohm meter or anything like that to test for current. it stopped drying. but it will still spin.
If no ohmmeter, test the heater with a flashliight bulb and battery, dim glow on the lamp ok, nothing -replace
if heater tests out good there are thermal cutouts ( also thermal fuse, thermal protector etc ) on the exhaust duct, ususally on the fan housing, they are one-shot, not resettable, and need to be replaced if blown. if a thermal protector has blown, clean the fan housing and exhaust ducts before reassembly.
Thermal protective devices burn out much more often than heater elements, they are built to fail first
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
Ok this is your heating element. when you pull the back panel and all those screws out you see to ducts. If the dryer is tipped straight out toward you and the cover is off you want your focus on the left duct. See the pic, two screws on the side and then grasp the bottom edge, same end where the red wires are and lift. Look for any gaps or really black bent sections in the element. Also clean and blow all the lint out, you will add years to your appliance.
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
Here is a link to a parts website that shows both assembly drawings and provides replacement parts list:
If your dryer is NOT heating up.. chances are ( and especially if it has some mileage on it) ..your heating element has opened .. If you do decide to test it with an ohm meter.. Make sure you've unplugged the dryer or you risk a serious injury. If you use an ohmeter.. you would be testing for continuity thru the element.. and not current flow thru it. Once you've reviewed the assembly drawings at the website, you should be able to locate and measure the element to make sure it isn't open. Not sure exactly how many ohms the element is ( when it is cold and it does change when it is hot).. but it should NOT be open..
Hope this helps you..
Posted on Sep 06, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Its very hard testing without a test meter.. volts and ohms. The Casing & heater is on the right side facing the back of the dryer. Metal silver in color, the heater is inside of the caseing. You can take the heater out and look for broken coils on the heater to see if it needs replacing. You have a to lift the top up to get at the top screw of the heater casing, take the 2 screws out of the flap where the lint filter goes. Use a putty knife to push the clips in on the front of the dryer and look to the back on the left side to remove the top screw of the casing. check the heater a post results.. theres many more things to check if the heater is good.
Posted on Aug 25, 2007
First and foremost check your breakers. There will be 2, 30 amp breakers. Even if they don't look tripped reset them anyway. Then try the dryer if that's not the problem then you either have a thermostat problem or heating element and will need to check with an ohm meter.
Posted on Dec 21, 2007
Most driers have a overload cut-out switch to protect the element from overheating
these are usually on the right hand side of the ( Bump / hump panel at the back ) should be a plastic thpe button that re-sets the overload
- got to be worth a try
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
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