My tail lights and viser lights stopped working and the gage lights that light up my speedometer dont work but my brake lights still work and all the lights on the dash work i have checked the fuses and they are all good can anyone help or might know what is wrong?
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Re: help with 2001 honda accord
Depending on the model, this may be covered under warranty due to a safety recall.
If it is a LX model with a V6, the bulletin is #04-034 for the driver side multiplex failing due to heat build up, and causing this problem.
You can call the D.O.T recall hotline at 888-327-4236 to see if your vehicle is effected by this.
You may also call your local Honda dealer, they should be able to tell you if your vehicle is effected by this.
Have your VIN number ready to give them.
If it is not listed as an effected vehicle, the multiplex is located near the fuse box on the left side. It is about 4 inches long by about 4 inches wide, and is usually beige in color. It is not a serviceable unit, and will need replacement.
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I would wire it to my tail lights and directionals.after you have it temporary wired make sure that the lights do what you want them to do them perminantally secure the pigtail .make sure you use heat shrink connectors
It sounds like an cold solder joint if the radio has set unused for a period it could be a electrolytic capacitor. After this condition reappears preferably on the bench remove the solder side cover an gently press on the pcb board with a no conductive objected a pencil with the eraser contacting the board a low light area might reveal a spark if your luck.
Remove power from radio and turn volume know on then off.
If you are handy with a soldering iron i would use silver rosin core solder and a 35 watt max soldering iron and solder ******. Now with care tighted the pcb board screws and retouch the solder in the crystal area look around the board for corrision or dull colored solder this can but does no always indicate a cold solder joint. Just a tip dont just remelt solder add a little the rosin flux allows the solder to flow. As temped as you may be do not resolder the long ic chips they are very easily damaged by heat. Good Luck an i hope this was of help.
You have stray RF getting into your electrical system. If you are using a radio, try grounding the
radio chassis and the antenna better. It may not help and the vehicle's electrical system my just be volnerable to radio frequency (RF) interference.
Take the cover off,you will need a vom-ohm meter,check the final and regulator,if the led light is working, then its not the keying transistor,check D77,under the mike plug, original #MA27T, the sub is NTE-605A varistor. Also check the mike plug,see if pa works. ..hope this helps..
Your problem does not seem to be specific enough fo me, when you talk about the "board." The first thing I would suggest is to make sure the power going to the CB is clean, like from the ignition or directly from the battery, that may eliminate the noise. On the color change issue, I can suggest one of 3 things, open the case and replace the light unit, live with it, or replace it. Overall, I would say if you do need to change the board you were talking about and would need a tech to do it,along with the light issue, it may be best to move on, and purchase a new or used unit.
Had fixed the same problem yesterday. My cobra worked when it wanted to, when it didn't it looked like you explained. I found out that on my cobra the blue wire on the mike connector was broken. When it disconnects, no sound. after soldering, everything works fine.
Your post/description: 1. "...can apply slight pressure...connector...come back on...: indicates a loose connection or probably corroded terminals. The easy way is to spray it with electrical contact cleaner. The preferred method is to disconnect connector and with a thin sharp object scrape the pins (both male & female). An indicator of corrosion is dull greenish/grayish discoloration of the terminals. At times when the color is brown indicates probability of high current or loose connection. Same cleaning would and should rectify. On some instances, the female connector might be loose where the male will no longer contact tightly. Applying a slight squeeze with a pliers should tighten it up a bit making the joint firm and solid. Of course, safe practice should be exercised and verify the ign/acc is off before doing any electrical work. Please make sure that you don't remove your battery terminals since most current models of car radio units will go into protective/lock mode when battery is disengaged.
2. "...short in the wiring..." beg to disagree. If it were a short, a fuse will blow and it will not light up even intermittently.
Hope this be of some help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need further information.